Redrig

yup . thats it 26 . I havent confirmed it , but I am sure those are either missing or mangled , the tops wont seal at all . I have an Oring kit , I will see if I have a size close to that .

oddly enough yesterday I was looking online and cant seem to find those , after searching all I can find is rebuilt kits for carbs that dont include that gasket up top , is it just simple O ring ? I feel stupid as I would have bet the farm that it was something electrical or that CDI box , turns out its just the simple stuff . leaky ass intake

I wanted to close out this thread with some good news. Over the last few days I've taken everything out up to the Reeds, double checked my work on the rebuilt carbs Checked my compression, it's 115 and I'm at about 4500 foot elevation. after putting it all back together I was able to get it fired up and actually running, although it ran like shit. I have leaky tors carb tops, the left one hisses really really bad. I used a piece of hose to pinpoint where the leak is, and yeah it's on the carb tops , no matter how tight their screwed down or wiggled around theyre still leaking. So needless to say I have ordered a tors delete kit and that should hopefully fix this for good. I'm not even going to try to mess with those tors tops, just gonna get rid of it. So thank you all for the help and direction along the way, I will report back once I have got rid of tors.

Yes to both . While I have the carbs out probably gonna order a tors delete kit . Even if my tors is working fine ( currently unplugged) those big tops sure make putting the carbs back in a complete pain in the butt , no room to operate

Damn , the reeds are perfect . Not even a sliver of light coming through anywhere. They look brand new. I will crack open the carbs just to verify I didn't miss anything . After that idk what to check next . Everything I have tested ( pretty much everything ) is checking within specs . I guess I'll have to try another cdi box

The intakes boots are in good shape no cracks . I have been reading up on reeds and symptoms of bad reeds and how they can affect performance , I wonder if my reeds are shot , I have never looked at them and I do have some of the signs of bad reeds , so I will check those out next.

Okay good , as long as all OEM will interchange across the years, thats good to know . I am not scared to swap out the plugs. going to check those now , when I rebuilt the carbs I didnt notice anything . But then again I didnt inspect them

Hello all , I am back again and still having the same problems , it will kick over and shortly die , maybe run for 5 to 10 seconds very poorly and finally die out. I have tested everything electrically on the bike that I can find specs on , stator , coil , I put new plug caps one , the wiring harness is good , tors unplugged, EVERYTHING is within specs and I cant find what is wrong. @hoppedupandcutdown - I checked the pipes too and have the silencers removed now as well. They are not plugged up with nests. So this got me thinking , maybe the CDI box is bad . So my 1st question is , can these things fail slowly ? still produce a spark but run like crap ? Or when they go , do they just completely crap out and give no spark ? 2nd question - I have a 96 with the funky CDI plugs . I have located an OEM CDI box from a 91, can I just simply change the plugs out to make that old CDI box work with my harness ? Thanks much

Yeah , it gets very little run time and sits quite often over the winters out here and couple that with life and kids , I wish I could ride it more often . Maybe 10 hours a year it's whole life . Good idea on the pipes , just barely fixed a Honda 50 two wheeler with that exact problem that sat for 30 years , bunch of crap in the pipe.

Okay , that makes sense now , thanks for the quick responses. Well crap . I don't know what to attack next . Tors box plugged in or unplugged it is the same. When adjusting your carbs after a rebuild , how many turns out do you start with on the air screw ? I'm right around 1 . Less or more doesn't seem to matter still runs crappy

Hello all, first post here and greetings from Utah I could use some help.I have a 96 banshee that is bone stock it still has tors and everything stock on it , I've never had a problem with it and overall been extremely reliable. About a year ago it became really hard to start , and when it did start it would run like crap. so I did some of the basics, rebuild the carburetors, checked the coil new spark plug caps , plugs , etc. I still can't get it to run long at all, it will run for 5 or 10 seconds very poorly and then die out. (Makes it really tough to dial in the carburetors) It feels like I'm chasing some kind of electrical gremlin and have been reading up on the system. Which leads me to my question, how can you isolate the parking brake switch? I can't find it, is it in the actual clutch lever somewhere? Thanks in advance for any help