RILS

pipes?

As far as i know all of the newer trinitys are stainless.As far as power I would rate them between the t5s and the cpis.They have decent bottom with more mid to top than the t5s with a little less on top than cpis.I run them and they just get better with every mod i do.Im going to a 4mill cub and the builder im getting my stuff from said i might see a 2-4hp gain on peak with cpis but not enough to switch the pipes.

Yea im having a good time with it. As for my gixxer yea i miss it the banshees quick but the old gixxer woul hand it its ass any day of the week.How close are you to getting yours back together? Im ordering a 68mill cub to go with my new 4mill crank I got to get new pistons, domes, seals a tz bearing and im sure im forgeting some shit.Its costing a pretty penny but maybe this will give it a little kick in the ass.lol Ive been saying when I get it on the dyno and it pulls more than the gixxer Ill be happy and leave it alone but ive got a long way to go the gixxer was a race preped 750 and pulled 178 last time at the rear wheel.Let mw know how that thing runs when you get it back together.Im tring to wait on Jeff to get back to me with his price but Cam at redline has been helping me alot with all the decisions and offered me a pretty good price on the setup.I may just go ahead and order from him tomorrow.He says with the rest of my setup on gas I will proably be in the low to mid 90s!

I agree you can get some pretty good deals on pipes on ebay.As far as quality trinitys are second 2 none.They perform better than most all around pipes.My choice if performance was the only consideration would be cpi and the quality is not bad on them ethier.I run the trinitys and have rode simlar bikes with cpi and didnt feel much diffrence anyway these are the two that i woul recomend.

From what ive heard and seen the big bore doesent give much performance.As far as my opinion on oem cylinders goes anything more than a 200-300 dollar port job is a waste, im not saying that oems cant make good power but it takes a lot of money to get them anywhere near as good as cubs.At 80 over your sleeves are gone and resleeving with bigbores or std bores is going to run you about what $300 and then 400 and up for a badass dragport to get you anything close to 70hp on gas,so now youve got $700 in a set of badass oem cylinders that perform decent but not like a cub, so you decide to go to the cub and you might get 400 for your cylinders and pistons if your lucky.This is somthing me and many others have learned the hard way and yes a good cub setup is going to run you about $1100 for everything you need not including clutch and other option but you will be done with it.I know cubs are not for everybody but if your going to run a extreme dragport your lowend isnt going to be the strong poit anyway so the choice is your but this is my opinion.

You need to split the cases and get all that stuff out.No amount of flushing imo would give me enough confidence to put my motor back togeather like that.I had a wrist pin bearing bust once and a guy said just flush it out. I split the cases and guess what i found in the crank bearings! Just go ahead and split em it will save you in the future.All it takes is one tiny piece to trash a bearing at 9000rpm.

I would not change the sprocket youll proably be better of with the 15,but by judging from your mods as much as i hate to say it my money would proably go on the zilla.Ive never raced one but I rode one along time ago and it may have been my imagination but that sob seemed fast and it was pretty stk i think.But goodluck and let us know how you do.

You should really not have any problem with him as long as you get some traction.I race a lot of 450s on a short slick dirt track and smoke them pretty bad but ther are some fast one out there ive had some modded yzfs and the new quadracers hang right with me but on pavement or a little longer track it wouldnt even be a race.

I had the same problem when i put my new carbs on and they were just a little out of sync.Does one just heat up faster than the other or the cool one just never gets hot?

The pc ive heard are supposed to be a decent pipe.If your wanting a inframe drag pipe there are pleanty ti choose from cpi,shear grr ive not heard anybody reall complain about any off them.

It will kick in for sure.Get the pipes ,k&ns and a noss head and then get in some of the high dollar shit use your money wisely cause it will play a huge part in how fast you will go.

66mm there all out of bores.

Why wait go big now and sell me one of those cubs.

Damn that sob is sweet. I knew I shouldnt have sold my gixer.

Theres alot of differnt combinations people ru with these carbs.I was running 340s in my stk carbs and having the same problem and switched to the 34s and it went away pretty much.Im at abou the same elevation as you.About all i can tell you is get it in 5th gear hold it wide open for about 5secs pull in the cluch hit the kill switch and check the plugs keep doing this untill you figure out where you need to be.Its only going to pull so far and alot of it has to do wiyh your porting and pipes.Differnt port jobs will pull diffrent amounts of fuel so all you can really do is keep tring untill you get it at its best and thats about all it will do.

I agree.Maybe a 280.With pods you would be at a 330 or 340.360 or 380 imo would be real rich on stk porting.

That sounds pretty rich to me but im no expert with the keihin carbs been playing with mine since i put them on.Im running 34pjs with dune/drag port trinity pipes and clampons.Im at 145main 42pilot with a cel needle on the middle clip.

Try a 27.5 pilot.

I buy mine "111" for $275 for a drum from a local race team that runs limitied or whatever those cars are called that run oval asfault tracks.

If you run more than 150psi run atleast a 50/50 mix to be safe.

Ive got a set with yellow outerwears.Like he said how much you want to spend?

www.cascadeinnovations.net

Get you a set of trinity stage 4s or a set of cpis.Eathier of these will pull harder and longer than the two you have listed.Out of the two you listed i would get the t5s.

Allright he's rite quit using the starter fluid.Your carbs definatly need cleaning.When you put the bowls back on after cleaning the carbs blow through the fuel inlet and I set mine where i can blow through them freely,I just set them high enogh where they dont leak thourgh the overflow tubes.You set them by bending the little tab thats between the floats,youll see it.It moves up and down with the float it has a little wire thing on it that conects it too the float valve that controls flow of fuel into yhe bowl.Dont bend it much at the time it doesent take much to make a big differnce.

You do loose a little topend by running higher compression,however there is a good medium where the loss is worth the gain i guess you could say.I prefer 170-185psi and ive heard a lot of builders like this range also and a lot of people here run in this range.In my opinion anything over 200psi on gas is hurting more than its helping.