RILS

Those are keihin knockoffs. Ive heard a lot of people having troble with the slides.

You should be fine with that.

At that altitude you should be way rich with the stk pipes and 300 mains.At 5300ft if i had to guess with that filter setup and t5s you might still be rich with that main,but thets about wher i would start with the t5s 300main stk pilot and middle clip on the needle.When you check your main you need to get it in 5th hold it wide open pull in clutch and shut it off and check the plug.IF you try to put back to the house and then check it you arent getting anywhere.

I agree.Cant beat the maxima.

I would break it in with the stk stuff.I usually run a little richer on the oil for breakin maybe 24/1 for the first tank and then back to the usuall 32/1.The first mod imo would be the pipes and pod filters at the same time to save on the jetting.Next would be a noss head with what ever domes you choose,This will be a much better and more noticable mod than the vforce for the money,im not saying vforce are a bad mod just that on nearly stk machines the money can be far better spent.I would go as far as saying that for the price of vforce you can get a clean up port job with better gains.

Take the cylinders off .Check for deep scratches and other damage.Go to a machine shop have them measured and they can even bore them to see what it will take to clean the taper and any other damage up.Then go to magicracing.com and buy the wiseco kit to fit the bore your going to be at and hone the shop hone the cylinders out to fit each piston and mark which one goes with the other.

Im with all the other guys here.When i have them bored i get them to bore to match each piston and mark it.I guess if you didnt bore it and are just slapping a new set of pistons in it then it doesent matter.From my experience if its time for a new set of pistons its also time for a bore, even if theres no deep scratches or anything the taper usually gets it.I bored a set of standard bore cylinders the other day that had no problems except the slap and it took 30thousands to get the taper out.

Yea if you get in a lot of water you might need the box.But other than that its a real piece. Yes it does suck more air. more air+more fuel=more power and from my expierance the pods filter just as well as anything especially with the outerwears.

Ive alway ran maxima castor 927 and never had a problem related to the oil.

The crank case is a totally seprate compartment than the transmission.The only oil that goes in the crankcase is what you put in your gas.I change my gear oil about every 5o6 rides or like stated above when ever i feel like its needed.Those are the only two places you put oil.I run 32/1 maxima 927 in the gas and the yahama gear oil in the clutches.You will learn as you go.Go ahead and pick you up a clymers manual and a compression tester,you will need both of them in the future and it explains all the maitnence stuff in detail.Goodluck with your new shee there one of a kind.

I doubt it.I may be wrong but I would think it will take more than reeds and some domes to beat a ported zilla.The domes will help your bottom but take a little from the top,if you really want to beat him pm me ive got a set of jugs and pistons that will cost you not much more than a set of vforce that will send him home with his head down.

The 300 should be about rite.Check the plugs and if its rich put the 280s in it.When i first bought my trinitys i ran the airbox with the stk filter for about a week and i ran the 280s with the 27.5pilot needle on the 4th slot from top and 2 turns out on the airscrew and it was perfect.I was at 900ft.The k&n might lean it a little but not a lot.Try the 300s to be safe put it in 5th hold it wideopen for about 5sec and shut it off and check the plugs.

Throw that pos airbox away.Get you some pods youll be much happier,they flow better and make pretty much anything yo do to your bike easier.

Get three mains 320-340 and a 27.5pilot.When you start put the 340main in and the 27.5 pilot 1.5 turns out on the airscrew 4th clip on the needle.I know a lot of people running that with fatties and thats what i ran with my trinitys and it worked real well for me.You will need the hex mains.The size is usually in the part number.

I race them a lot in 200ft and there tough off the line I usually end up walking them down but if i do hook off the line i eat them up all day.Ive yet to be beat by one without missing a shift.On dirt you proably wont get him off the line but should beable to walk him down.There are some modded ones that will run right with me thourgh 3rd but from there on its all over.On pavment that sob better have a turbo or some shit if he wants to hang.I had a locall guy here that has a 450r that swore it would smoke me and would bet $500 on it,so i told him to meet me at the strip.When he pulled up I was walking the dog on a pretty moded quadracer450 and he backed out.It was a goodthing it was a good thing for him i raced him for fun and pulled about four lenths on him in 200'.

It real just depends.As a general statement velocity favors lowend and volume top.But this is a very genral statement.Its really hard to explain,with some port jobs the cylinder will flow much more efficentaly and will pull more fuel through smaller mains.Im not saying bigger carbs would not help im just saying that the lowend will suffer if there too big.Having that said sure v-force are going to flow better but they are very expensive for what they are imo.Where does your motor lack?If I had to guess i would say its proably pulling preety decnt off the bottom and revs good but proably fall off pretty flat on top with very little over rev?If so that is due to the small carbs and can be fixed with bigger ones but there is a good medium.

Youd be suprised at what those little stockers are capable of they might fall a little short on top but they are hard to beat for bottom end. Your motor in my opinion by wanting that much jet is telling you it is working on volume and not velocity.I wouldnt go throwing huge carbs on it with out tring a few the bigger the carb the less velocity and the power can in turn suffer from this.

You will not have to rejet fo either one the cool head has nothing to do with jetting and the reeds may richen it up but not usally enough to rejet.

I couldnt have said it better.I call bullshit on that thing out draggin some of these new 450s they are the fastest 4strokes ive seen.Ive got a eagle with a 600hp cummins its a bad motherfucker,Yall think it will hang with a zo6?lol

It sounds like somebody really hogged those things out.Put some orings in the head and if you dont have any airleak then you shouldnt have a problem.I was leary of mine with the epoxy on the transferrs but i talked to sevral builders and they told me that it wasent all that uncomman.Mine run like a mofo and it sound like yours run pretty good too.In my opinion if you run those types of times thats pretty fast for oem jugs on gas.That main is huge but if the plugs look good and it runs good leave it in there.

You shouldnt turn your airscrews out more than 3 turns.If you have to go farther than that your pilot is too big.

Well the silicone is definatly a halfass job but a easy fix.As far as the porting goes put some pics up and take some measurments from the top of the cylinder to the tops of the ports to give a idea of the durations.As far as the epoxy goes youll have to use your best judgement,I have a set of jugs that have a spot of epoxy on the transferrs and they run like hell and have never gave me a problem.If the pistons rise above the deck into the domes its proably a stroker.That main is huge have you ran it with this?Its a big main but i guess possible.

The trinitys will do fine for trail.A good setup i found to provide alot of lowend was 340 main 27.5 pilot needle on th 4th clip.Get your compression up the higher you go the better lowend will be 185psi is about as high as I recommend.However if you get above 150-155psi you will have to run higher octane 100octane should do for 150 - 160 and above that i would recommend straight race gas to be safe,you can get diffrent octanes.I ran 111octane with 185-190psi and it worked well.I think you will be happy with the performance of the pipes,Ive never talked to anybody who ran them and wasent happy with them.Those jetting numbers were with k&n pods so if your still running the airbox drop that main to 280-300.

I ordered mine from a&s yesterday. There are a lot of builders outthere getting good numbers.Cam at redline is a great guy to deal with.Ive heard alot of good things about jeff@fast and k&t.Dan at a&s happend to have everything I needed for my setup and gave me a great price so I went with him and he went thourg my whole setup and all the options.We are expecting between 87 and 95 with my setup.

If you go with a drag port i agree the cub is the way to go.Im in the process of putting a 4mill cub with a 68mm bore and pistons,cubs,domes,gaskets and a tz bearing to go on my crank is going to run me about $1300.For the stock stoke I guess it could be done for aroun $1000 dollars but after that you start thinking about your clutch,swingarm and other shit to try to handle the power but I think the cub is the best investment as far as cylinders goes.I know these prices seem high but its not hard to end up with a huge amount of money in stk cylinders and be wishing you had went to the cub in the first place.