RILS

196/132 are drag numbers stock cub is 197/130.

I have been told that the dual stage reeds will fluter at high rpm. You can remove the center bar but it will weaken the cage.

We do agree that was my point but alot of guys will drop 200 on a set of vforces and skimp on something else I was just tring to point that out. If I had access to a free dyno I would figure this out I have been considering picking up a set of blaster cages porting them with tdr reeds for my cub but I cant tell you alot cause im either to cheap or poor to drop $200 on the vforces to compare. Everytime I consider buying them I always think of a better way to spend $200 but im approaching the point where it might happen one day but I doubt it. My motor would proably benefit from them more then most but I need a lock up, overide and im sure a bunch of other stuff that I feel would benifit times more even if I am losing 2hp on my reeds.lol

Nice chart. I would be very interested in seeing one with the blaster cages and say tdr reeds on ported stk cages. I would like to add the gains on a stk or say piped motor would be even less imo thats an expensive 3hp give or take depending on setup. I would also think and have been told the ported blaster cages will pu a considerible amount of flow over the ported banshee cages. On the other hand ive been told by some very wise people that the vforce in the end will still out flow any other setup. You can setup a set of blaster cages for around 80 bucks not with the carbon techs though I might give it a try but I dont have a dyno.

Ive never had any experience with namura. That is correct about the prox, I put some in a few yz125s that were coated and had a little higher dome they were higher then the wisecos price if I remember right this was around 2000. To add the last 65mm wisecos I bought I gave $150 dollars for so the price difference is not alot.

I like wisecos and thats what I run in all my stuff. Having said that I have put a good many pro-x in motorcross bikes for other people at their request and didnt have any problems with them.

All depends on wht u want to do with the bike and how much money u have.

I would think at that level a 20 or 21cc dome would have been plenty with a 68bore. By my calculations either would be in the 15/1 range just on opposite ends.

I would say the pilot is fat 27.5 should be plenty big.

Do you know that u have fire?

You have something going on for sure. I wouldnt event put those domes in a 68mm cub at that elevation. Check the squish. What kinda gauge are you using? Might try another one. With that setup u should be way above 200psi cranking and I would guess 18/1. After reading the whole post starting to sound like you have a 4mm cub on a 54mm crank if the squish is .110. It should be around .050 or less.

Get somebody that knows what they are doing and it will be fine. For what you will have in a stroker crank setup you cold get a badass port job that will make you forget about that crank unless your like me just cant get enough but I really like a hard running 350.

I agree im at 1000ft with 18s on a 65cub and got 193 cold the other day. That 68mm should be way up there with those domes.

That sounds low to me with those domes whats the squish? How far are you from sealevel.

It shouldnt have hurt anything. I run tt111 but im sure c12 is good as well.Get it all out and it will be fine.

I agree a good port job will bring you alot more then a 4mil crank and if you run stk cylinders with a stroker crank at a minimum you will need to drop the floors to the new bdc. A stk crank with a good port job will run real hard, much harder then a stk port 4mil.

When I built my 4mill cub I had this conversation with Dan Hull at a&s. I allready had the shortrod crank and didnt want to buy new domes to run 68mm unless there was enough difference to justify it. I was told by him the long rod was making a little better torque curve but the short rod would rev faster and make a little more hp on the dyno. I ended up with a 65mm cub and the short rod crank and dont have any complaints. If you plan on going to a bigbore in the future the bb pistons are easier to come by for the longrod crank, last time I looked you had to go with vitos or wsm for a bb and shortrod. I had a 68mm cub at one time but sold it in favor of the 65mm mainly because of piston availbilty with the shortrod crank I couldnt tell any difference in the power.

Forget about a boost bottle, dont run 19cc domes on pump gas unless u are way above sealevel and you can go above +5 on the timing without going boom.lol Get you a noss head or simlar and if you get you cranking pressure above 155psi run race gas a good port job from someone that knows what they are doing and you will be on a good start and a adjustable timing plate is a good mod for the money. Along the way you will want to get that crank trued and welded. Goodluck

I assume they are 34pjs try 42pilot 148main and a cel needle for a starting point you might go a little bigger on the main in the beginning just in case I ran a 350 dragish port on that.

I have one low hour can be had for $100 plus ride. Or trade for a set of prowedges or vforces.

Ive got a set off stk bore no porting ready to put on with factory pistons and a head that came off my 04 pm me with a offer. They had very few hours when i took them off and are ready to run.

I agree with everything said here I would think in the end you will proably end up around 300 on the main but I would start around 330 or 340 and dont go jacking up the timing untill you get it jetted right.

Make sure your pick up is gapped right to the flywheel.

You should beable to get it to idle with the choke/idle nobs and the airscrew. What is your jetting now? How did your top get so lean that it wont pull higher gears without burning it up its pulling off the main at 5/8 to wot reguardless of what gear its in. To give you a decent starting point im running 34pjs on a 385cc 4millcub "65mm" trinty pipes with cel needles on the 2nd clip from top, air screws are 1.5 turns out with a 50pilot and a 155 main @900ft evevation. I ran a stk stroke with them and dune/drag cylinders 42 pilot and the cel needles all the way lean with a 148main I believe its been awhile on that one.