grpark20

I have a toomey hush kit with spark arrester for T-5's and T-6's. i no longer have a use for it. Just asking what I paid for it. $110 shipped to lower 48 states. I can do international to, just contact me first.

Point well taken.....I was running 100LL AV Gas on the old set up I had. Never checked the compression but was widing @ sea level with 20cc domes. I could ride the trails and logging roads for 6 hours and burn 3/4 of a tank. Going to be a lot different with new set up.

I'd like to be able to run 93 pump gas...but if the gains for higher compression meaning running race fuel are worth it, then I'll go that route. Just want to here whats making everyone happy.

Just curious to see what every one with the 4 mil long rod and port work to match is running for compression, or what you are trying to shoot for? Basically what would you consider the optimum compression when you factor in the expense to ride with your octane requirement. I know everyone will be different for various reasons and conditioins you built your shee for (dune, drag, trail). If you could add your octane, dome size, and timing if any will help too. Thanks.

I've got a similar style set up and am wandering if the red lock tite was used on bolt threads, in the hole that the bolt goes in, and did the lock tite set for 24 hours?

I've got one....it seems to be just as loud, just adds the spark arrestor for me. Its not the greatest looking either.

I've seen them both a lot and never new what they meant. So can some one tell me what ttt and bump means when it's posted as a reply. I know I'm going to feel so stupid when I find out.

Anyone else have a similar set up?

Point taken......I'll keep researching to see if I can get enoungh info to make it a go. So far it's a NO. If I make it to a GO the way I plan on doing it is to hook the positive from the battery in to the wiring harness part that the yellow/red stator wire goes in to and the the negative to the wiring harnes part that the ground is to. With this the only part that will actually get power is the voltage regulator, front lights, taill/brake light, and the front and rear brake switches. Still researching though.....and still at a NO

I think that diagram is for pre 01 shees. I have the taillight/brake light set up.....I'm 98% sure it will work if I splice blue and green together and use yellow/red as power wire. From the diagram in the clymers, the front brake and rear brake switches that trigger the brake light get their power directly off the stator wire and the running light gets its power from the light switch when on. So I just need to supply the power to the switch (yellow/red wire) from stock switch cluster and splice together the blue wire (turns on running light when lights are on) with the green wire (lights high or low beam). I am running aftermarket lights so either beam will work. As long as bike is running the front and rear brake switches have power, so they will work even if I have no front lights. Does this sound correct?

Well I'm to the part of my build where I am waiting on funds and I'm bored. I want to wire my truck battery to my wiring harness so I can work out the details with eliminating my stock light switchand replace with a toggle switch and make sure the lights work with taillight and running light. Do you think this will hurt anything and do you think it will work? I don't think it will hurt anything but I'd rather get some opinions.

I don't have needles yet, or I'll have whatever comes standard.....thats why I need to know what to start with

That's what I'm hoping...I literally man handled the old set up and figured I already had all the bolt ons, so it was time. :biggrin:

Well I finally moved up and need a good start for jetting for new set up. The old set up was jetted perfectly. Old set Up Stock Carbs with tors removed and idle screws installed 340 mains 27.5 pilots Airscrews 1 1/2 turn out Stock Needle on 3rd Clip Intake with crossover tube built in Stock bore jugs VF3's T-5's K&N Pods with outerwears Noss machine cool head with 20cc domes +4 timing advance sea level for elvation 60-70 riding temps New set up 33 PWK's mains? pilot? airscrews? needle type and position? 4 mil long rod crank 795 series pistons cut domes stock bore aggressive dune port to match 4 mil Intake with crossover tube built in VF3's T-5's +4 timing sea level for elevation 60-70 riding temps I need all the help I can get. Thanks in advance.

They cost $599 @ Fullbore in Portland.....By the time you factor in gas and my time......2 tanks and 8 hours round trip it will be more than the $629.99 I can't justify in my head spending over $300 and getting a blemished set. I've been doing the build right from the begining...no reson to skimp out here. Thanks for all the help.

$200 shipped for intake, carbs with cable, pods, and blue outer wears. Next step EBAY.

Pipe clamps are sold!!

Getting ready to buy a new set of red fullbores and wanteed to make sure I have the best price so far. I've found them for $629.99 shipped and that includes the billet grille. Please let me know if you know of any where cheaper to get them.

Boss Racing intake that will fit up to 28mm carbs......possibly larger!?

Pipe clamps sold....pending payment.

PM Sent.

Really don't want to seperate...If no one buys I'll send you a pm on a price.

Pipe Clamps

Well I've come to the point in my build where I am starting on the engine and have no use for these items. I have stock carbs with TORs removed and idle kit installed with 340 mains and 27.5 pilots, cable for stock thumb throttle, K&N Pods, and the aluminum intake with built in crossover tube. Asking $250 for all shipped to lower 48 states. Also have billet pipe clamps that came off my T-5's. They have a quicke polish job on them, but could be cleaned up a little more. Asking $25 shipped to lower 48 states. Carbs, pods, cabled, intake.

All of the parts that were taken off have already been sold!! To be honest I was going to throw the crap away because of the conditions....everything was beat to $h*t, but put it on ebay and got quite a bit.