jbooker82

I run ethire Honda HP 80/85. or Bel Ray Gear Saver 80W.

Just think if you would have gotten the timing plate the first time. You wouldnt be doing this a second time.

I Like how when I launch my banshee with the lockup it slipps a little off the line. I am just running OEM yamaha springs. :thumbsup:

It is probably just a 5 outlet distribution block. With one hose that goes to the overflow catch can with a valve in the hose. Somthing along the lines of this. You hook the T in side ways so that your dual fuel lines go straight through the T and on the top you run a fuel line to your res tank with a vavle.

I would say you have a bad water pump seal. Get a new one of those and you should be good to go. Might as well get a billit aluminum water pump impeller while your in there. josh

I would do the stoker. Have they cylinders ported for what ever type of riding and for the 4mill stroker crank. That way you dont have to run one of those spacer plates inbetween the cylinders and cases. What bore are your cylinders on now? I dont think I would bore a set of 64mm cylinders out to 66mm just to make a 400cc machine. I found a set of patriot racing 4mill drag ported cylinder on here for around a $100 bucks. They needed resleeved. So I sent them back to Dan at Patriot Racing and had him resleeve them with cylinders that started out at 66mm and go all the way up to 68mm on there last bore. If your cylinders are at 65mm now you could have them bored out to 66mm, and next time it needs bored have them resleeved to start out at 66mm like I did. I got about $600 in my cylinders including the 100 bucks they cost me to buy them. Yea a couple hundred more and I could have just gotten a cub. The Stealth Look is kind of worth it though.

Come on Snop everybody knows a stage 2 is right above a stage 1 and below a stage 3. :biggrin:

What needle are you running in your PJ's. I would recomend a CEK

Yea a 2 stroke runs like a bat out of hell right before it locks up :thumbsup:

You also use the tool to sync the Idle. If your having problems syncing the idle make sure that there is slack in the throttle cable. Set you idle speed and then sync the idle. Then rev it up a little and find a way to keep the throttle position the same. Then adjust the cable tops so each carb pulls the same amount of air. Now the Idles are synced and the cable lift is synced.

I would run PWK33's Not to big not to small. They are a good all around carb.

It happnes because the clutch is dry. If it bugs you that much start it up in neutral.

Unless the grey color is from the aluminum that the pistons are made from. :biggrin:

Stock carbs are Mikuni. He has Keihin. They use a different numbering system for there jets. Mikuni uses how many cc's of fuel they will flow in 1 minute. I think keihin numbers there's acording to the actual size of the hole in the jet.

If you actually have a motor that will turn those big paddles you should alread have a lockup clutch. You dont just by the paddle that will give you the most grip. You have to have wheel spin too.

Any of you guys get your Parts or money back? I bought a Direct Drive Lockup Cover and Lockup for 300 bucks. All new parts. I got it with no problems at all :shrug:

Bought an intake from MM too. Good guy to deal with josh

Are they the Air Striker's or regular PWK's. Air strikers have i believe 4 vents per carb and some funny looking fins in the front side of the carb. (air box or filter side). Do you have any porting or anything? Just pipes? If so I would start out with a 48 pilot (probably end up at 45 or 42) 152 Main like said above CEL Needle

The make my boss racing intake match up to the reeds better. If your running stock carbs i wouldnt bother. But if your running 33's or larger I would deffinatly get them. Chances are if your running bigger carbs then the stuffers would make sence. The would aslo work good on a trinity 2:1 since the intake has big square opeanings.

Yea I say get the 4 mill stroker crank. Then have your cylinders ported for the crank. Once you have them ported for a stock stroker crank they cannot really be ported for a 4mill crank. Then you get a Noss Machine head and run domes that are cut for the 4mill stroker crank. When you buy your stroker crank I would get the hot rods 4mill stroker long rod crank. Then run 795 series pistons. You run 795 series pistons because of the longer conecting rod. You run cut domes because the piston comes up 2mm higer in the cylinder. Or you can run a 2mm thick spacer plate. The cut domes are the way to go though.

Get rid of that 3 deg key. You see how yours is off set? They can sheer off because they are thinner. Just get a stock key and use the plate to set the timing.

I say Klotz

I got my OEM Plastic from Yamaha of Troy. They were the best price. 450 or something for the Metalic Black 2006 LE Plastics. I ordred my decals from www.ronnies.com . Yamaha OEM decals are expensive but are worth it. I think when I got all my 06 LE ones they were $350 or so. They are really thick and come with a clear protective film over them so they dont get scratched during installation. Here is my 97 Banshee that I made look like an 06 LE.

Plus NGK's quailty is way better than champion.

How many hours do you get out of an engine before it needs a new top end?