jbooker82

Is it poping like fire crackers or just bogging and cutting out? What is your current jetting. Main Jet = Pilot Jet = What kind of Needles= What clip position = Turn out on A/F Screws = Cut all the threads off the spark plug with a hack saw or a dremel. Take a picture of that. What you need to look for is a 2mm ring around the base of the spark plug. Kind of like in these pics. Instead of cutting it like they did in the pics I just go clear around the spark plug and cut all the thread off. That way you dont damage what your going to be looking at with the saw blade.

You are so right. Real riders dont ride with the boost bottle. Boost Bottle free here.

Congratulations on the mod. :thumbsup: You just wased your money

At least polaris finished the front finders / gas tank cover on the Outlaw. Those preditors with the gas tank cover ending half way back on the fuel tank looked like crap.

When I tore my banshee down in to parts and cleaned everyting up I had a hard time bleeding the brakes. I put fluid in the master cylinder. I would pump and pump, but it wouldnt build any pressure. I let it sit overnight and tried it the next day, and it the brakes bled fine.

I run 5.1 in mine. Same Spec's as dot5, but it is non silicone base, bends with dot3, and dot4. Bad thing about dot5 is since it is silicone base if you get any moisture in the system (it happens over time) the water starts seperating out, and ends up colecting in the bottom of your brake system, the calipars.

Still really doesnt matter. The Cub is cast as a drag ported engine. Your not going to get low end power out of a drag ported engine.

It will cost you bottom end grunt in exchange for top end snapieness

I dont know how this would help you guys out running big front sprockets but jeff at fast also sells straight cut tranny gears that are 2.68 ratio. Straight Gears at FAST The only bad thing would be that it is not real easy to change out like a front sprocket.

What kind of riding are you doing that you need that big of a gear?

I would recomend the Boss Racing intake. They work with 33-35mm carbs so that wouldnt be a problem. It has a built in crossover tube inbetween the carbs. Really cleans up the area around the carbs. It also moves the carbs back and up so they dont hit on the clutch arm.

Guess you should have bought one of these before it happened

The UPP ones are a pain to get in. Once they are in they are not going to come out.

Not to be an ass but his bike has Keihin Carbs on it. I know it doesnt change how you jet it but there is absolutley no information on that web page about Kehin Carbs. You want a real keihin tech page go to DRI's web page. DRI's Keihin Jetting LINK

Look at where those rubber stopers rest against the seat. I bet your missing the two front rubber bushings. There sould be rubber stopers in the seat where those 2 rubber stoppers hit. Most of the time the front ones are missing. They are just made of rubber. UPP Racing makes a set of replacement ones that are made out of Poly. Two short ones in the front two tall ones in the rear. Here is the right fix. UPP Racing Seat Nubbins LINK

Take a look at all the engine packages that Patirot Racing does. Patriot Racing LINK For their Hot 350cc Trail motor that they build they RECOMEND Dmc Pipes. They Recomend T5's for there Dune 350cc motor.

Here is my drag ported cylinders.

That is the one I have. Just so you know that particular one is a Remanufactured lever. Mine was 105 for a new one from motosport.com

#2 vote for the asv lever. C5 Pro Model here. Nice levers :thumbsup:

Toomey uses Cobra Spark arrestors. Toomey just makes the part that holds the spark arrestor core on there pipe. I would spend the cash for the toomeys. Clamping a spark arrestor on your pipe wouldnt look as good and it would scratch the silencer body up. Those spark arrestors are a good though. They are big so there is more surface area for better flow. Just stuffing a screen in the end of a pipe would really cork it up I would think. josh

So why not just buy Wiseco's then?

Get a real port job instead of pistons with part of the piston head cut out.

Here is the carb sync. Get it Idling. Sync the Idle so both carbs are pulling the same amount of air. Then Rev it up a little so there is no slack in the throttle cable. Then measure the air flow. Adjust the cable at the top of the carbs until you get the same reading from carb to carb. Carb Sync from FAST LINK

Here is the carb sync. Get it Idling. Sync the Idle so both carbs are pulling the same amount of air. Then Rev it up a little so there is no slack in the throttle cable. Then measure the air flow. Adjust the cable at the top of the carbs until you get the same reading from carb to carb. Carb Sync from FAST LINK

Keihin DOESNT make a 35mm PJ. They make 34mm PJ and 36mm PJ.