csrmel

im down to go to crooms or ocala. if we go to ocala id like to hit up big scrub but drive in the vehicles way west on the power lines untill the woops go away. dave knows where im talkin about. if we unload there then we can ride woops free right away. the other nice thing about ocala is that its $6 a night, hot showers, restrooms, power and water are included. if you dont camp in the designated area then its free but you get no ammenities. croom is what $50 a year for a permit, how much per night do they charge? delancy in ocala is good too but i dont know how to drive to the good spots like the huge gold sand pit without treking through an hour of woops first sence ive only been there once. make a new post about it with a date and time. maybe some of you want to carpool there too to save on fuel?

im pretty bad when it comes to carrying tools. i have the oem tool set, a pair of moose pack a plugs and a wad of napkins (incase you have to shit out there). and thats about it.

i spent a couple hundred on the ticket. over a hundred in gas. $30 in food 12 hours of driving and i didnt even get to see the race. my dad started drinking again after he promised to quit. he was acting like a dick again and i didnt want to be around him so i left before the race even started and went home. fuckin $400 down the drain.

think what you like but i OWN those pipes and that hush kit. ive done alot more than just a few before and after runs and i cant notice any power drop with the hush kit on. no iffence but if anything you probably contributed the noise reduction to a loss in power.

when he said "Do I need to get the kicker gear too?" it should have clued you into the fact that he wasnt talking about tyres.

no offence turbo, considering the banshee uses an alternator and not a generator, i think you might be mistaken. besides that. if clamp my fluke dmm on the output wires from the stator the fluke shows nearly the same amps weither the headlights are on or off. if what you said were true then what i just did 5 mins ago with my dmm would not be possible.

my sister and her boyfriend convenced me to drop some coin on tickets to see NASCAR. ive never been to a nascar race. i was thinking there would just be a bunch of mullets walking around. might bring my camera for mulletjunky.com anyone else going?

ive got no proof of this but i speculate that its some sort of low friction coating like moly, tefflon, etc.

270 may be a bit lean but it shouldnt of popped that quick from the mains. i dont know whats up with youre pilots but i would look there first. maybe thro in a set of 320 mains and 25 pilots. do a plug chop and i bet it will be close. if its not close, check for air leaks.

dont know if you realise this or not . the stator puts out the maximum it can no matter if the headlights are on or off. even if you have the stator disconnected from the harness its still putting out the max it can. its the regulators job to dump excess power to save the lights. its not like an automotive alternator which has brushes to control firld strength. the field on a banshee is 100% at all times. it just gets stronger based on rpm's. and i think this is where most people get confused. a banshee regulator cant save a harness or destroy it. the harness gets 100% of the stators power weither the regulator and lights are hooked up or not. the harness knows no difference. the only thing that knows any difference are the headlights. i guess what i am trying to say is that the regulator doesnt control the wattage from the stator. it just dumps any excess that the headlights cant use. if the lights are off, it dumps 100% of it. but that wattage is still being consumed, as heat actually. so if you have a 225 watt ricky stator and 2 35 watt headlights, youre consuming 225 watts. there would be 70 watts going to the lights, and 155 going to waste as heat in the regulator. the voltage would be irrelivant, because as the voltage is raised or lowered, the amps go down or up accordingly to maintain the same wattage. so to say that a regulator is the fault of 9 out of 10 melted stators would be wrong.

i am the only person to vote for full fenders

you need to grab a toomey hugh kit. it quiets the exhaust a decent ammount plug you get a bit more top end power. it only weigh like 2 lbs so you wont notice any changes in weight. i have one on my bike and it sounds pretty good too.

ive never seen a solid reliable hid kit. seems like everyone i know has continual problems, everything from the light mounts breaking to battery box breaking, they also add some weight to the bike what with the heavy wire, battery, bracket, etc. the stock lights are plastic, lightweight and reasonably decent if you upgrade to an aftermarket regulator. the stock regulator keeps the lights around 9volts max. thats hardly ideal for a 12-14v bulb. also the ricky stators are junk. just last weekend i personally saw one smoke. fastrthnu's bike blew his rickystator out. it burned so bad the thing turned black and his bike quit firing. we popped the ignition cover and flywheel off and you could smell the burned out stator from 20 feet downwind. methy man hates them too. he was there talking about how many hes seen burn up.

i like full fenders for trail riding where you might encounter sticks, rocks, stumps, bushes and stuff. full fenders are also nice when the ground is damp or wet. otherwise the front tyres just fling wet dirt up at ya when ya turn. the underside of my front fenders are scratched and gouged from things that have hit them instead of me. the other thing is that banshee front fenderes only keep things from comming up at the top half of youre body. they dont stop stuff from being thrown up from the tyres and hitting youre feet, legs, waist etc. but front fenders sure keep youre torso and face clean. but race cut definitly looks better. but if i cared about looks l would probably buy some billet and such. personally id rather go fast than look fast.

im still running my factory original plugs from when i bought the banshee new year and a half ago. why change the plug if its not missing? if you jetted correctly youre plugs should last forever.

ive been to ocala (delancy and big scrub) a few times. its a nice ride and thar be secret spots with no woops if you can remember where to drive.

hey it was fun guys. sucks youre stator took a dive. but you can get that bike running again for less than $50 i bet. well definitly do croom in the future.

ill see you fuckers at 9!

ill be there around 9am guys. the miami drive is about 130 miles so its not too bad. id like to get there early so i have time to unpack, relax, etc.

why not get one with a steel pipe? i have one and i can easily get all the zerka on the shee.

my nephiew has a raptor 80 and its got plenty of power for sand. you just have to aire the tyres down to about 1.5psi. otherwise it gets stuck. but at 1.5psi it can climb sand hills and pretty much go anywhere my banshee can, but the raptor is obviously alot slower thats all. its got JUST enough power that i can wheelie it and spin donuts in first gear, but barely. and im 250lbs. i must look like a circuis gorolla on that thing hahaha.

rockymountain atv has a bunch of motocross clothing on clearence. pants are 30, jersey, 10, gloves, 10, etc. grab a set of pants, actually for that price grab a few sets of them.

this is kind of a semantic topic, but anyways, i think of it as a mod. when you grab a set of dyno jet or toomey needles that are different than stock for example. the other thing is that huge ammounts of power can be had or lost with jetting changes. people that constantly fuck with their carbies to get the maximum power diserve to list jetting as a mod. hell i wasted a dozen sparkplugs by cutting them apart when i finally arrived at my current jetting, which everyone seems to think is far too lean, but ask gary, dave or chase how quick my bike is. know what else i think is a mod, reliability mods. like magnetic drain plug, etc. you probably dont think thats a mod either, but thats what makes the site great., the difference of opinions.

yeah you have to hook the lite up to a car battery. then with a pencil or marker make a mark on the case where the timing is at idle before you do anything. after you do the plate re check the mark and make a new one where the new timing is. then grab a degree wheel and set it against the mark to tell how many degrees you are advanced. you need a wheel roughly the same od as the timing mark circumference. google 'degree wheel" on google pictures to download a plethora of degree wheel sizes and designs. print it out on youre computer and you are golden.

hey chase, havent heard from you in a while. you comming? you better! if it rains ill be parking my shit under a tarp untill it stops. i have open foam pod filters. my shit cant handle rain. anyone bringing a bbq grille? was wondering what you all were going to do for lunch and or dinner? im packing lite for sunday. just the banshee, some gas and a basic set of tools. thats about all i can fit on a 4x8 trailer.