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LiftdT4R

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Everything posted by LiftdT4R

  1. I might take the case saver, I'll let you know at the end of the day, it has all the bolts right? Damn good deal! Awesome guy to work with, too, no worries here! :beer:
  2. Ohh yeah, in that case, that is an awesome deal! I was thinking you had to at least know somebody, or something, because there is a good amount of labor and parts that go into building a good shock. Post up some pics! I'm interested to see what they look like, sounds sweet! :beer:
  3. Try PMing Wertzy, he had one a while back. They are tough to find. I'm guessing your looking for some moster low end with the dynoport?
  4. Nah, I'm a civilian ACE, and I do mostly enviornmental work here in the flood prone regions of NJ. If I ever get laid off I'd like to join the military branch though.
  5. Yeah, if your needle is stock, keep it at the middle clip, and then go with the jetting suggestions above. By the way, when I saw your thread name, I thought of Borat, Wow wow wee, I need some jettings help, yah!
  6. Yeah, that pilot is way way off, you should either be at a 260 or 270 main depending on temps, 270 if it's below 50, 260 if it's warmer. Try a 25 pilot, with the air screws 1.5 turns out or so, then play with the idle screw a bit.
  7. Hmmm, if I'm really bored tomorrow I'm gonna go and look up that issue, I could sware they were around a G new. But it was sooo many beers, errrr I mean years ago. Either way, a set of 4 snows will run you $200, and get you through some decent stuff. I would personally love to run this setup and give it a shot, looks like a ton of fun!!! But I think the price is somewhat high.
  8. 30 pilots?!?!?! That's HUGE dude. You should probably be more lik 25 if you don't have any porting. The mains are right though, and then you should mess with your idle screws and carb caps(if you have TORS removed, which you should) to get the bike on spot. Also, where ae you located, elevation?
  9. Stock are 25(if I remember right), sounds like you just need to raise the idle, you should have the idle screws tapped into the side of the carbs. Try turning them each 1/4 turn at a time until you can idle.
  10. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA, I've kicked my share of cats. J/K, I do hate cats though. Good list!!!
  11. Your runnin' a lid on that air box? If so, your probably a size high on the mains, should be 260s or 270s, probably 260s since your elevation is so high. Also, what size pilots are you runnin? FMFs like a 27.5 or 25. I'd stay with a 25, and mess around with the air screw a bit, then set the idle using the screws on top of the caps. A little playing around and you should be good to go. A lot of people will say banshees don't idle, don't listen to them! You should be able to idle for at least 20 min. or so before it cuts out.
  12. Sometimes I go back and read my posts like a few days/weeks later, and I think about how much of a dick I am. I still wouldnt MX or GNCC a banshee though. But if you want a play bike, the shee is BY FAR the best choice.
  13. Wow, I missed that. Yeah, you definately don't wanna use a drill at all. The whole should be tapered down, so yeah, you will need a reamer. My buddy did the last set I had, and I forget what size/brand reamer he used. If you search around a bit I'm sure you can find out, or maybe someone else will chime in.
  14. :yelrotflmao: Told ya so! Congrats dude!! :beer:
  15. Hmmm, I'm not doubting you or anything, but basically your gonna pay $200 for a set of YFZ front shocks on fleabay. I can't imagine that build costing any less then $200 for all that work, springs, labor, valving, unless they arent using really good stuff. At that you at $400 which you can get Elka E36s for. Personally, I think e36s would be better shocks then the YFZs, but to each is own. Any chance you could post up some prices on that? I am curious to see how it would cheaper then aftermarket shocks.
  16. Yeah, you could always pick up a set of Banshee spindles reamed for Honda BJs on ebay too.
  17. A lot of people ream the spindles, it shouldn't make it any weaker. Find out what the diameter of the bolt is, if it's 16mm, you can get 4 new ball joints for like $80 or so. If they are 14mm it's gonna be like $175. And you are right, I'd take them back and bitch if you can. Reaming the spindles isn't fun.
  18. Hell yeah! In case anyone was wondering, there was a company that made these about 10 years or so ago, and they will fit a Raptor, YFZ, and bike with the same bolt pattern. I remember reading about these in dirt wheels when they first came out. They tested them on a Warrior and Banshee. They said they were fun, but there still isnt enough area on the treads to give enough flotation above the snow, so they will still bog down in deeper stuff. Also, most sleds are 500cc 2 strokes and up, a 350 banshee with pipes and a filter probably isn't going to have the same power as a full size sled. On a side note, I hope that you were mistaken when you said $2k, I only remember this setup costing $1200 new. I personally wouldn't even pay $300 for it. This guy will NEVER get $2k for that setup.
  19. Yeah, as far as I know all LSR arms come with Yamaha style ball joints which don't require any mods to the spindles. Somebdoy either sold you a set that were not LSR arms, or they changed the balljoints out for Honda style ones. You have 3 choices really: 1- Ream the spindles.(make the whole larger so they can accomadate the Honda style ball joint) 2- Buy new ball joints.(Should be Yamaha Style either 14mm or 16mm diameter bolt) 3- Take them back to who you bought them from and kick their ass because he lied to you. Good luck!! :beer:
  20. Fawk it, I'll roost too!!!!!
  21. Yeah, same here, it won't even be a race, you'll smoke that douche. Definately start in 1st though with those big tires, and tall gearing.
  22. Yeah, I'm willing to bet that it is just a simple wiring problem, 95% of electrical problems I have had are in the wiring harness somewhere. Either someone fucked around with the wiring that had the bike before you, or a wire melted, something like that. Also, I forgot, but check your ground. It should be a short pigtail coming off the CDI that gets mounted to the frame underneath the voltage reg. I had a whole bunch of rust build up around it, and the ground was shitty so nothing worked. Just another possible place. Good luck! :beer:
  23. I second that, that's probably what you should have done in the first place, anytime you se loc tite, heat is a sure bet. Don't go too crazy, but if you have an oxyacetaline torch, just heat her up for a maybe 20 seconds or so, and loctite will melt away.
  24. Yeah, I was gonna say, just replace the fuel valve that's in there, they are dirt cheap from the stealership. I had the same problem, and I guess the spring just wears out, or shit gets stuck in it, just replace it, and you should be good to go.
  25. Damn, sorry to hear your still having problems. Sounds like you have one BIG mess over there. First off, do you have a Clymer? If so, take a look at the electrical diagrams in the back. It will tell you what switches on the bike are normally open(the circuit must be incomplete to run) and which switches are normally closed(circuit must be complete to run). Doube check, but I think the only switch that is N.C. is the key switch, every other switch on the bke actually breaks the circuit to make a spark, and then if the circuit is complete, there will be no spark, for example, just unplugging your TORS(when everything else works) ensures that there will be a spark because that cicuit is broken. My guess is that you have a problem in your wiring somewhere. But you should alsotest the Stator and make sure it meets the Specs in Clymers. You should also make sure the pickup coil is good and gapped correctly, again in Clymers. The flywheel usually doesn't go bad unless you dropped it or hit it really hard, because it will loose it's magnetic properties. When I had electrical headaches with my bike, I stripped EVERYTHING electrical off of my bike, looked over it all, cleaned it up(took out unnessecary shit like the TORS, and wrapped it all back up. Turns out I had a big clump of shit in my TORS plug which made the circuit think it was complete and the bike would not spark. If your anywhere near NJ hit me up, I have a clean wiring harness off an 01 I'd let you borrow to see if that was your problem.
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