LiftdT4R

Long story short, she was 1 of like the 3 chicks on this board, she didn't own a banshee, but she did post a lot in the off-topic forums. Her ass is tithead's avatar, there was a bigger picture in the chicks on banshees thread, as well as a few others, but it seems to have been edited out now.

Damn, that's a clean bike, espeically for a '90. I always liked the Warriors, it's shame Yamaha stoped making them.

Yeah, it definately should not be touching the head or frame, either the pipe was manufactured incorrectly or you have some serious farme bending. Couldn't tell you which without looking at the bike. But it's most likely the pipe. Just bend the radiator hose out of the way, they are made to withstand a lot of heat from the coolant flowing through them, but you might melt it eventually.

Lookin' good, when I PCed mine, I dumped those 2 disc guards that go over them. You really don't need them, and I think it looks a lot better without them.

Any chance you have just a pair of good front rotors? Not warped, bent or grooved? Lemme know, Jay

The only difference is the length, otherwise, it's exactly the same silencer as the powercores. I used to run Powercores, now I have SSTs, which is the only reason I know. You can just cut them to fit, and save bout 200 or so, but keep in mind you have to re-use the flange on the silencer side.

Have you ever taken a stock axle out? It's not bad, the toughest part (assuming nothing is sezied together) is the axle nuts. Most people just use a pipe wrench, although I prefer the right tools, which will run you about $30 for the right set for the stockers, and another $20 or so for the GForce wrench. Just look in the Clymer, it's not any harder then installing a stocker.

I see someone finally found a good use for bad stock cranks. That's awesome! :yelrotflmao:

If your in Cali, I'm guessing your a duner, so the heims should be fine for you. If your running trails, MX or dirt though, you definately don't want the heim joints(crap gets into them and ruins them). As for the fullflights, personally a few hundred dollars more will get you good A-Arms from a reputable company, with a lifetime warranty. The same people that made full flights made a couple other brands of a-atms(Ugly A-arms), and they stopped because they had problems, so now they operate under the Full Flight name. But, I have never heard of any problems with the Full Flight ones, and the reviews I have read have all been good.

What housing are we talking about here? But, yes, you probably need it.

Just buy a chain press tool(chain maker). If I remember right they are like $20 or so at your local cycle shop, I think motion pro makes one, but it does basically the same thing as the vice. If it were me, I'd run 2 masters, and pull the scond one out after it stretches though.

Yes the will, Banshees and Blasters have the same spline on the axle. Bump for ya.

Cool, thanks for the replies, all good info. I might give those wal mart balls a shot in these guys. They arent on my bike yet, they are for the 2001 that I have all in pieces, hopefully I'll get some time to get the frame done over spring break, and then I can start putting it back together. I bought soooo much shit for it, that's just sitting here. Lonestar Swinger, Lonestar Hubs, Lonestar Arms, Elkas, Eibach Rear, PT MIds, Boysen Reeds, you name it, it's killin me just looking at all of it, and not ebing able to use it.

Ohh yeah, not at all, all of the high temp PC colors are flat. The cermic coat gives it a little shine, but nowhere near chrome. Out here on the east coast we don't roll with all that bling though, mostly woods, trails, dirt and mud. :ohmy:

Here's a set I had done in high temp silver, and the letters were traced in high temp black. The came out good, but I only used them for 2 rides before I bought PT Mids.

Not usually, you can rub some grease on them if they arent sliding to easy though. Check the carb bowls for sure, I don't remember which number goes on which side, but there's a thread somewhere here about it. Also, when you have the air box off, look at the slides and make sure they are at about the same height when there is no throttle. The part of slide with the cutout should be pointed toward the back of the bike, and it should be open just a little bit, maybe 1/4" or so. The parking brake switch is also normally open, if you unplug it you should be fine.

Yeah, it is tought to find someone to chrome used pipes,a nd it's generally expensive. I had mine PCed, it's a lot more durable although it's going to be a flat color. I ride trails, and I don't really care how it looks so it works for me. I've never heard any downsides to the ceramic coating, but I've never used it. That should give you the chrome look kind of, with some additional HPs.

The new carbs do have the idle screw tapped into them right? Also, make sure you did not swap the carb bowls side to side, they are unique. Lastly, make sure there is a short stubby tube running between the carbs up by the choke, it's the chocke tube, if it's missing, the bike will run like shit. Other then that, The TORS switches are all normally open, so just disconecting everything should do the trick. I don't think it's a problem with your TORs, it's probably a problem with the carbs. Pull the plugs, and make sure they spark when you kick it though just to be sure. No spark= electrical problem.

I don't want to muddy up your thread here, but what is the clutch pusher mod? I've never heard of it.

Was the rest of the bike there or did it look like that? Also, what part of the country are you in, the prices fluctuate a lot from state to state.

I don't know how true it is, but I heard a while back that the YFZ450 bumpers fit the shee. In pics the setup looks similar, but I don't know.

Yeah, I was gonna say, I've seen a few older banshees with the white frame. To me it's more of an old school look, not sure how well it would look on a rappy though.

I think you do, but a lot of guys run those aftermarket hangers that look to be solid stainless or steel with chrome. I see how much my pipes vibrate when I'm riding, and I wouldn't want all of that trasferred to the frame. It seems like you would fatgiue that part of the frame, or at least the bolt, after a while. Just my .02, I'd use something, even a washer would help.

Not saying it can't happen, but I have never had a CDI go bad on any of my bikes. I know they do "burn out". But I would completely make sure you check everything else out before replacing the CDI. Make sure your ground is good! If there is a lot of rust around the ground on the bike, or it's not hooked up cleanly, you will have a lot of problems. This is the most common one I run into.