DieselTech

As a 17 year veteran of the U.S. Army, I have recently been stationed here in West Palm Beach, Florida, about a month ago. It was a long move from NY, for sure. Shortly after arriving here, I located a nice place to rent; a 3 BR/2 BA on 1.25 acres in a "country" setting; off a dirt road, near a park, and very rural for West Palm Beach. I decided one day to take one of my quads out for a ride to scope out the local trails. Keep in mind that I grew up on the West Coast of Florida, and was always able to find places to ride. So, I put on my MX boots, helmet, goggles and gloves and head out. Not far away I was able to find some trails in the woods near a canal, as well as some trails on some empty lots also; I refrain from riding on private land without permission, but obviously others in this area do not. The trails I did ride on were on County property. After about 15 or 20 minutes, I decide to head back to the house, as it is starting to rain. As I leave a trail and come back onto a dirt road, I find a police officer waiting for me. We have a nice discussion (he was very professional and gave me only a warning, after I explained the circumstances), and I was informed that there is no Off-Highway Vehicle use allowed AT ALL on public property within Palm Beach County! Riding is only permitted on private property. The area in which I live (the "acreage" it is called) is also a very large equestrian area (horses), and I have seen people riding their horses all over; this is apparently legal. So I talked with a number of people at the local bike shops, only to discover that there are no riding areas at within Palm Beach County, public or private; the closest areas are easily an hour away. This is not very good at all! I did some research, and found this online petition, which I obviously signed right away. As you can see, there's only 85 signatures, with a goal of 50,000! So I'm trying to spread the word and get some signatures so that maybe something will happen. If you can help out by supporting this cause and sign the petition, that would be great! If you can spread the word to your friends and family, co-workers, online buddies, etc. and encourage them to do the same, even better! Thanks for your support BHQ Members!

Hello all, Has anyone ever used (or now has) a Vito's crank? I'm looking at the "stock" one they sell, it supposedly is also keyed rather than welded. I have a motor that needs a crank, and I'm trying to decide which way to go with it - rebuild this one, or get a new one. HotRods cranks are $$$, so I'm looking at less expensive options. Hell, I'm even considering rebuilding this one myself (it'd be my first!) to save a few bucks and get some experience.

Ok, I got it all back together and fired it up. Once I got fuel into the carbs it fired right up. Warmed it for a few minutes, then rode it - seems low on power for sure - free revs fine, but just doesn't pull when loaded. I brought it back to the shop to check it out and noticed fuel dripping from the right side carb vent hose. Looks like I gotta tear the carbs apart for a once-over. Just a quick question about stators though. What are the symptoms of a stator that is going bad? I've heard alot about the stock stators going bad all of a sudden. I have all the lights removed from my bike so there are no electrical loads besides the ignition (so I can't run it and look at the brightness of the lights as an indication). I also noticed that the bike fires right up on the first kick when warm - which makes me think that the engine is in good shape, as far as rings/pistons/cylinders go - even though the compression seems low. I gotta get the carbs off and go thru 'em first before I go any further though.

Hello all, I'm beginning to plan out my complete 'Shee rebuild, and I'm looking for advice on suspension set-up. Everything is stock right now, but I want to upgrade the suspension 'cause stock sucks. I ride mostly trails in NY and PA, and I ride at a good pace. I also take it to the MX track every once in a while too. So, given that, any suggestions? I've been researching thru BHQ forums on this subject, and it sounds like a shorter swingarm gives better traction (moves weight back), and that +1/+2 arms up front are the way to go. I'm not sure about the swinger, as far as -1 or -2, any opinions about which is a better choice. Also, recommendations on specific manufacturer's? I'm pretty much set on either Elka or TCS shocks. As far as engine stuff goes, it's pretty much stock - just a Dynoport 2-1 pipe and Vforce2 reeds. I plan on doing a complete rebuild of the motor (out of an '87, my bike is a '99 - the original motor will probably get sold on ebay after I build the '87) - but it will be pretty mild as well - these things have plenty of power for the type of riding I do (no dunes here in NY). So what I'm saying is that I'm not building some monster motor for this thing - I've got better things to spend my money on than a $5k motor! I'm considering going to a 2-1 carb setup, and possibly some porting (maybe do it myself). The '87 motor needs a crank, so I'm considering either a HotRods or Vito's crank, or having this one rebuilt (or rebuilding it myself - now that's a big task!). I'd like to fabricate/repair as much as I can on this build - alot of satisfaction in knowing that I did all the work myself. Of course, I'm no expert either, so the chances of screwing something up are good too. Actually, I've contemplated building my own arms and swinger too - but I may be too ambitious. This is my first project bike - I've never done a complete rebuild before. Anyway, any suggestions or advice on any aspect of these ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

Well, I got some more rubber plugs and retested.....found air leaks at the intake boots where the crossover tube goes in (I have a WB boost bottle in place of the crossover tube). I couldn't get them to seal with the stock spring clamps, so I used 2 small hose clamps. It seemed like the right side was leaking worse than the left. I'm not sure if it's the boots or the tubes on the boost bottle causing the leaks - I may try to "polish" the tubes (they are a little rough). I also performed a compression test, and got 112psi on the left cylinder and 105 on the right - which is apparently low (I'm not much above sea level). I haven't had any issues with my plugs popping out - I'm using tapered rubber plugs from Home Depot that are made for the bottoms of furniture legs or round posts. They are 1 1/8" in diameter, and I twist them in, so they fit pretty good that way.

Yes, I realize that - this is why I used a small battery-powered air compressor to begin with. Of course, since I didn't have both exhausts and intakes plugged, I had a gross leak and hence no pressure build-up. Chalk one up to stupidity........ Hopefully today I can get to the hardware store and get 2 more plugs so I can do it right this time.

Thanks for the spec. I will re-check after I finish the leak down test and compare to that.

I will purchase 2 more plugs so that I can plug both intake ports and move my pressure gauge over to the other exhaust port. I was under the impression that the cylinders were isolated from each other, but now I'm realizing that this must not be the case, as I see no seal at the center of the crank/case. I was checking for air leaks due to having one cylinder "skipping", but now I'm thinking that this may be related to something electrical. I checked compression and both cylinders were equal (both just over 100 psi if I remember correctly) - which may be low - I'm not sure what the "normal" compression is supposed to be - I do know that if they are both equal then it's not a problem with the piston/rings/cylinder causing a misfire in just one cylinder.

Hello all, I have question regarding leak down testing. I fabricated my own tester out of rubber plugs, a tire valve, and a small air pressure gauge. The plug with the tire valve was installed in the left side cylinder exhaust port, and the plug with the gauge was installed in the intake air boot on the same cylinder. I blocked the crossover tube port on the air boot as well. I used a small air compressor (12v electric type) to try to perform the leak test, but the gauge would not move - the compressor apparently couldn't move enough volume of air to build pressure. So, I used my tire chuck to put air to it - I made sure not to go past 5 psi - but the pressure leaks down almost immediately. I sprayed windex on all my connections (the 2 plugs, all fittings/tire valve stem, plug in the air boot crossover, reed cages, etc.) and retested, checking for bubbles - there were none. I repeated the test numerous times, listening for air, and I discovered air entering the right side cylinder (I put my finger into the reed cage and pushed a reed petal open and heard the air escape). I'm not familiar with a Banshee motor - I've never had one apart. I looked at the parts diagram on BikeBandit, but I don't see any type of seal on the crank that seals between the two sides of the case - what seals the crank between the two sides? I see that there is a left and a right side crank seal - but they are at the ends of the crank. I'm assuming that there needs to be a seal between the two sides, otherwise wouldn't you get a fuel mix into the opposite cylinder? Any advice on this would be appreciated - and if I'm doing something wrong, please educate me! Thanks

A few questions: 1) Are you keeping the stock swinger length? 2) weight, compared to stock (lighter?) 3) intended purpose (MX, GNCC, etc.)? Looks pretty good though. Why not just use the new Elka linkage & shock though? Cost a factor? Or just something you wanted to try to build? I'll be keeping my eye on this fab job as well. I think it's cool when people build their own stuff - that's what you call "one of a kind" !!!

LiftdT4R - Are you a Combat Engineer? I see the Engineer Castle in your sig..........

Well, I'm not talking about getting arm pump when I'm trail riding - I'm talking about when I'm going balls-out on the MX track. It's not like I'm putt-putting around - I'm keeping up with the guys on the newer 450's - but it's KILLING ME!!! I understand why (see my reasons that I posted), and I wanted to hear from others who have had similar issues and what they tried to make it better. There's things I like about the 'Shee, and things I like about the 450's (btw, I also own a DVX400, Blaster, and had a Rappy 350 so I have something to compare to). I haven't ridden a 450 yet, so I can't comment on how they handle. I know that just getting good suspension would probably go a LONG WAY to improving the way the 'Shee handles, especially on the jumps. But, like I've said - how much $$$ would I have to spend?? MAYBE for MX, I'd be better off SELLING my 'Shee and getting a new bike??? However, I don't race ATV MX b/c it's not that popular around here (that's why I'm racing on a CR250R in Senior C). :happy:

Yes. It's not difficult, there's a round see-thru "window" on the left side of each carb. Just move the throttle until you see the mark on the slide in the window on the left side carb, then adjust the right side to match.

Ok, it sounds like it's not an intermittent problem - it's all the time, right? Sounds like you've pretty much covered everything that's probable, so with compression being ok, and the reeds being ok, and a single carb, I'd suggest the following: 1. Crankshaft not in phase, causing late piston timing. After all, it is a 2-piece crank, it can happen, though unlikely. 2. Late ignition timing on that side. Too bad you couldn't throw a vacuum gauge on just the right bank to compare to the left (unless you have the original carbs & intakes) - you could tap in where the crossover tube goes into the factory intake manifolds. Or, you could mark the crank 180 degrees apart & use a timing light to verify ignition timing. I think the vacuum test would also identify a late piston timing issue, as the pumping efficiency of the engine should be lower. Just my thoughts........good luck!

Already have a Dynoport 2-1 setup. :biggrin: