LiftdT4R

Yep, it's the green/yellow wire which was the brake lights, shouldn't need it, everything will function perfect without it, just tape it up so you don't short anything out.

Are you sure it's solid green? If so, then yes, it definately goes to the stator. I kind of remember the break lights being green with a yellow stripe, are you sure your not missing the stripe on the wire?

Your not missin' much, I have them on my '02, and they don't work now because you basically have to break the level that connects the rear brake to the system in order to remove it.

Green wire goes to your stator. The extra wire is for the brake lights, which you don't have so just splice the other, grab some quick disconnects for them, makes it easy to remove them later, and leave the extra wire.

Hmmm, I'm not sure what you mean there. I now from year to year the style of connectors changed, but I haven't heard of the amount or color of wires changing. And yes, you can just splice the wires to the existing ones. I had the same problem with my stator, I just clipped off the connectors and used quick disconnects to attach everything back. Just wrap them up with some electrical tape afterwards. EDIT: I can't remember if the brake lights run through the CDI or not, either way, just clip the wires and don't use them. Here's a link to a wiring diagram http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html You should have it in the back of Clymer too. I know for a fact the wre colors didn't change over time, so just match 'em up to what you do have.

It would probably be a lot easier to put a shee engine in an RZ350 frame. The RZ has the same engine as the banshee with minor differences, so it would be a perfect fit. You can score a used engine for around $800 or so, and performance parts can be had cheap also. Your biggest problem is going to be pipes, your gonna have to find someone to make them for you. You may be able to mod a set of RZ pipes, but the flanegs are different. Also, this bike is never going to be street legal if you do the swap, I don't know if you care about that or not though.

If I remember right they come with Elkas, which are your best bet for shocks. And while Alba makes decent stuff, from what I hear their customer support is terrible! Just from what I have heard, I would steer clear, if you do a search on Alba there should be a lot of reviews. Personally I put all LoneStar stuff on my bike, but there are a ton of good arms out there. You can't go wrong with Laeger, QuickSand, Jannsen or LoneStar to name a few. Make sure the arms come with a lifetime warranty too.

Wow, I don't know what school you went to or what kind of job you have, but I would say upwards of 90% of the shit I learned in High School, and 60% of what I learned in college I never used, it was complete and utter bullshit, just a filler. Granted I took away a good amount of stuff that was extremely helpful, they really make you take some bullshit classes, that have nothing to dow ith anything.

Yeah, for a truck, go with Kuhmo Road Venture MTs from tirerack.com, they are like $100 a tire for around 32" and they wear awesome, I put them on all my trucks, you should get 60k road miles out of them easy, and they kick the shit out of BFG MTs offroad. For quad tires, RMATV, but I couldnt suggest anything there.

Good luck! What happens is after so long, the bearings wear out, and all the grease goes away, then they weld themselves to the carrier and the axle. I chucked mine, and bought a new one when I had to do them. The trick on the new one is to tap a grease fitting into the carrier, and grease it once a year. You can try using A LOT of PB Blaster(way better then WD40). Also, if you have access to a hydraulic press that might do the trick.

Yeah, I was gonna say, the texture/finish doesn't look right, plus this guy has a decent amount of negative feedback in a language I don't speak.

I don't understand how anyone could look at that thing and think it's real. :: :: I know this post is a joke, but there are 2 others where people actually believed it. :: ::

Honestly, I don't think the average rider will notice a difference. I rode VF#s on a banshee with similar mods to mine with Rads, and I couldn't tell a difference. A lot of people will tell you the Rads are better anyway, but like I said, I couldn't tell a difference. There is a thread about ths from a while back with all sorts of technical info either way. The main point that I noticed was that Boyesen actually uses a flow bench in the deisgn of the Rad Valves, while V Force does not. The Rads are a lot cheaper, and you probably won't notice a difference, my vote is for the Rads!

Nice, that thing looks bad ass, I bet I could have some wicked parties in there.

I have them on my shee, here's some pics of the bike in my garage. Like I said before, I'm not a big fan of them, on my build I will be using stock stuff.

Gol damn, between these fullbores, and that IMS tank your sellin', I'd say you've been having some bad luck on flea bay.

Ever try running stockers in the sand? Also, the right tires will most definately make the bike faster. Razr2s will get you through back woods trails way faster then the shitty Dunlops the bike comes with. As for the scary fast power now, I've never used them, but I have heard good arguments why they work, and good arguments for why they don't. $200 seems to be a little much for what they are, which leads me to think it's scam. They could not have possibly cost that much to design or manufacture, somebody is making a killing if they're selling these things.

Hmmm, that might be an interesting project to try. Maybe one of these days.

I was wondering the same thing a while back. I had that style throttle of my Sea Doo, and I loved it, there was no fatigue even after we rode for 6-8 hours in some rough parts of the bay. I haven't found anyone that makes one, and I havent been feeling up to the engineering challenege, I'd love to see one though, I thinkt hat would be the best bet.

I've tried AC propegs, and DG. I didn't like either one and I never really saw a use for them. On the new bike that I'm building, I'm gonna go double pegs with stock heel guards and nothing else. The ACs I have never fit right, and they make it a bitch and a half to kickstar and shift. The DGs fit fine, but it was still hard to shift. I wear a size 10 1/2 shoe, so I don't have huge feet, but with boots on, I never could get under the shifter, even with the nets completely loose, and the shifter adjusted. Honestly, I would just say, keep the stock setup, it doesn't look as cool or as clean, but it works pretty well. Otherwise, I'd say grab a set of the roll pegs, and do away with the heel guards and all. Just my .02 from my experience.

Yeah, it should work, I tried it this morning and it worked fine. The order has to be over $100, and you have to enter it in the Gift Certificate box. :beer:

Whoa! 260s are going to be too low for that setup. I run 260s with FMFs and a full air box, and it's on spot. Do not go any smaller! My guess is that he probably fucked around with the needles, and they are on the wrong clip, they should be on the middle one, I'd check that first. You probably want to be at around a 280 or so. Going from PTs to FMFs or vice versa should not require any major jetting changes, seeing how as they are similar pipes, you shouldnt be changing mains, thats for sure. Should be 25 pilots also, and then a turn or so out on the air screw.

Here's the link: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html And here's the instructions: Q#58:What

Most people hook it up to the stock key area. The stock key is ne of the few switches on the bike where the circuit is close for normal operation(normally closed). That is the type of connection you need. SOmebody on here had an electrical FAQ about hook up a tether switch the correct way, if you search around a bit you should be able to find it.

Yeah, looks pretty cool, that might be one of those later rather then sooner things though, $120 is a little out of my ballpark after buying hiper wheels and shocks. Do you just run a regular banshee throttle cable with that?