LiftdT4R

wow, you went way back to find this one, anybody check the dates? Yeah, I think 63 is NJORVP by the way.

Nah I don't, someone had them down here at an MX track, and they hit low as shit. But I guess that's what you want in an MX pipe, some kid from scotland or ireland had them on eher, he had a thread about his Laeger shee.

That is insanely high! I had my 02 jetted at 330 main, stock needle position, with no air box, and FMF SSTs. You want to be down in the area of like 240 to 230 if you still have stock pipes.

hey! happy birthday! Thanks for all the jetting help!

get 'er dun! I didnt get a word you just typed, I'll be wasted in an hour, and it'll make perfect sense then, Bump for the boots!

bump for you, I'm gonna put my DC # in my profile too, wanna chirp me later?

OK, I never noticed this, so it must have been this way when I bought it. I never removed the front wheels on this thing, but one of the lug nuts up front is rounded off really bad. I tried to pull the axle nut, and slide the wheel out a little so I could get at it with vice gribs, but even the smallest pair won't fit in the wheel. I also tried to hammer a standard size socket onto it but no luck, and a 13mm socket is way way way too small. What options do I have?? Cut the stud??? I can't think of anything else here, usually the vice grips do the job, but no go here. Any help would be greatly appreciated,

fuckin' A!

Found these on Golden West this morning. I have UFOs all around, and they are pretty decent, not as nice as stock, but they do the job. This seemed like it was a screamin deal on the fronts. And I can always use an extra set. I havent gotten mine yet, but it's supposed to be a display model, it says 75%-100% new, all I know is they will be 0% new when I get done with them, so I don't mind the condition. https://www.goldenwestcycle.com/productinfo...p;deptcode1=541 EDIT: Also saw they have Maier Race Fronts in SIlver for the same price.

not to doubt any members' advice, and it just might be me, because I'm not the swiftest, but I had a hard time jetting carbs, especially 2 of them. It seemed hard for a while to get the air screws, mains, pilots, everything right. The kyt for me was understanding how a carb actually works. I always skipped over that in Clymers, and until I actually read it and understood it, I had a tought time. Understand it first, and then go from there.

You guys can goof on me all you want but..., I have a pretty mild bike, and I've never run into a problem with 32:1 Yamalube Race Oil. Got a shit load of it for next to nothing from a buddy that used to work at Action here in NJ. Can't complain at all, of course I've only used amsoil besides the Yamalube.

damn, good to hear, I wanted to do the aluminum wheels on my truck, does it work well with mothers polish, or should I stick to the stuff they give you with it?

:yelrotflmao: great minds think alike, took them off this morning, so I could fit the stock air box in correctly, I'm gonna hang onto them in case I do V-Forces. Kind of a payment for the jetting job I suppose.....

By not working, I'm assuming you mean it always acts if the clutch is pulled it correct? What kind of fluid are you running in there?

Aww no way, yall need some Jersey ether, did it last week upstate, my nephew broke the beed on his eaton 90. Bad trick to do though, I blew a 35x12.5 off both sides of 15" rim when I was doing it once.

If your trying to seat the bead, which is what I'm assuming from the above posts, it's gonna be tough. You need a big ass air compressor and a robe around the cicumference of the tire pulled tight. You could also use the ether trick, which I am not going to post here in the interest of safety. I don't know where you live, but a gas station that has a tire machione should seat a bead for you for abot $5 a tire.

Wound up being a 260 for anyone who's interested, 270s seemed a little to rich, a little bog off the throttle to start.

I ran 330 mains, and 27.5 pilots here at sea level with the same setup(well, FMFs instead of ProCircuits), and ran awesome. I'd run 320s since you'll be a little higher up.

Cool, thanks for the lead, they arent any longer for the +2 arms, just valved different right? I was even thinking about just getting these ones revalved, I shouldnt have ordered them before I knew what I was doing. Thanks,

TTT, price changed, where did you get them for 328 shipped? That's where I'm buying my next set.

Ok, The bike is an '02 banshee, has FMF SST headers and silencers, and reeds and spacers, and the air box was removed, and one of those 2 into 1 foam filters was stuck on the end of the carbs. It currently has a 340 main, and was a tad rich. I'm going to put back on the airbox, and lid with a uni filter. Any idea of where to start on a main, 260 or 280 I'm thinking. I'm also at sea level here. Thanks a bunch!

............DePeNdsS.......... nEeD MORE <<<<Info>>>>> what kind of jar are we talking about here??? mason jar?????????? Pickle jAr??????????? OthEr Kid of Jar ????? a) all of the above??? EDIT: Thanks for shortening your sig!

god damn dude, what is this the long sig club? hey, what can I say, long live the slippin'

It is a tranny where the gears are "cut", so they can be shifted without using the clutch. There are a few different kind of over rides such as a duneable. I don't ride dunes, and don't have an over ride, but more members here should be able to fill you in a little better. You can also try the serach, it has been discussed here a few times.

If you understand torque it's simple, the force(weight of wheel) is located farther away from the pivot point(ball joint), so it will apply a greater torque to it, and stress the ball joint. I honestly don't know how much it will affect the shees ball joints, but do you really need an extra 1.5" up front? I've ridden mine for a while, and I wouldn't chance it, I'd buy new arms for a wider track.