letsgetthisdone

i wouldn't be worried about it unless you ride in muddy or wet conditions..

its not a problem with valving or springs. The shock kicks ass for about 20 minutes, then its gone. Kinda like ridin a pogo-stick...

well that was unneccassary(sp).... oh, and Jeff is an awesome guy. I've never dealt with dave but have one of his heads (got it from Jeff) and it is a very nice piece..

my revalved stock rear fades BAD. i had a loacl guy do it. He put in a racetech gold valve and whatever spring racetecvh reccomended. Hes gone back into it twice to play with the shims. It works OK, but it fades after like 20 minutes....i think my front TCS's with rezzies hold more oil the the POS stock rear....i'm goin for the elka shock and linkage as soon as i have the cash..

mine work fine. absolutely nothing wrong with 'em.

i'm right around that power too. stock swinger and 20x10x10 8 paddle haulers hook up great, ya the front-end is light (very light), but it makes it fun IMO. I like a challenge when i ride, thats why i have a banshee in the first place...

i run 3-4lbs, its usually when i get air goin over razorbacks and the bike gets crossed up, or when i go off a ledge at an angle, it puts a lot of sideways force on the tiree. it takes a really hard hit to debead the tire from the 10in wheels from what i've found, so thats what i run.

i bought mine used. so i dunno man.

i run 10in wheels to reduce sidewall flex. and when i run 8in rims in the dunes, i pop the bead all the time...

i'd throw some yamabond or high temp RTV on there just make sure. Nothings worse then blowing it up an hour after you get it runnin cuz of an airleak that could've been prevented. Or tearing it back down when it doesn't pass the leak down test...

shayne is fouled420 if you didn't know....

not to mention a hopped 125 is goin to be a ticking time bomb. The tricked 125 motors tend to last no more than 20 hours before they need atleast rings. I still say get a 250f, it'll be WAY more reliable than a tricked out 125, and be WAY less finicky with jettin and fuel. And it;ll prolly have the same amount of power. Or do what rajuncajun said and just get a bigger bike....

thats not a sundahl man. someother guys custom creation... And the rear shock looks like its at WAY to much of an angle.. The trinity bike that ben posted above is a sundahl.

I just stole itfrom gimmeabeer. Its what we were gonna use if someone ever started to design something for the front frame reconstruction thread...

buy them. my ASR's hold up fine to the beatings i give them.

i'm not gonna be able to make it dude, can't afford new lights yet...

the first problem is the lack of rake. It would be nice to have about 10* of rake to the frontend. And the a-arms are mounted fairly far apart. bring the a-arms in closer to center and give it 10* of rake and it would be OK. but then you still have to do battle with the rear suspension cuz of the short ass shock it uses. On any legit LT frame, the shock mount is right underneath the seat, giving you a nice long shock to work. I've heard the elka linkage works good, but its just a band-aid for a flawed design IMO. The shock should be higher in the frame, and if you did that you could go no-link, but then you lose the rising rate that the linkage gives. As for the laeger t-pin front-end you are still dealing with a front-end that has very little rake and the a-arms are mounted far apart. Mount the a-arms closer together, then make the arms longer to make up for moving the mounts in would give it more travel. Adding rake would be the tricky part, cuz you would prolly have to modify the steering. So to do it 100% right, build a frame to except the a long shock that mounts high in the frame and a CR500 link for the rear suspension, and the front end would have 250R geometry. With all of the time and effort that would take I would just buy a sundahl or a lonestar. I don't think leager makes frames for the banshee anymore.

since it seems you're havin a hard time gettin rid of the whole bike, you could just sell the jugs and pistons and find a stock set of jugs or a set with a trail port. just a thought..

good luck man. as long as you have all the parts ready to go with a week left you'll be fine..

umm, rebuild it to stock and buy a 250F. a 125 will always have a narrow and peaky powerband. And buyin a 250f wil be cheaper than all that motor work, and more realiable, and have a better powerband (power EVERYWHERE)....just my thoughts.

the cheapest one on ebay right now is $700 "buy it now", and the guy claims he hasn't used it...

where, i've only seen them for $800-$1000

the shock will have different valving/springs for +2 a-arms. So if you get those ohlins, you will prolly have to send them off to get revalved and have different springs put on 'em.

I'd choose the sundahl over the lonestar or laeger, it has more travel. And you all the travel you can get for desert racing/riding. I have sundahls phone number, if you want it, i'll send it toyou in a PM.

port job: ~$250 4 mil crank (trued and welded): prolly close to $500 PT mids: $800 for chrome (with silencers), $620 for bare finish (with silecers) coolhead w/ domes: $250 pistons: $120 bore/hone: $100 all seals and gaskets: ~$90 stronger clutch: $100 single carb (optional): ~$350 for a used one on ebay, $500 new if you want a 7 mil crank it will be close to a $1000 for the crank i beleive, and i think its around $100 to have the cases trenched so the crank will fit. And it'll prolly cost more for the port work if you get the 7 mil crank, cuz the cylinders will need A LOT more work to get the port timings back to where they should be.. and if you're not comfortable taking your apart and putting it back together, that runs another $200-$300.