Snopczynski

Check for shorted wires in your harness, make sure the tors is deactivated and unhooked.

I think its where the cases come together.

Ahhhh, so you live in my area huh? For that price, regardless its gonna need work. How mechanically inclined are you?

I think that if you had to ask us that, then you probably couldn't and shouldn't be doing it? Have you ever even put an o-ring head on before? Cause it sounds like you haven't.

Dont know how much hp, but it is a notivable gain in midrange pep.

They make a 290 main for a stock mikuni type carb, but they dont make one for a 35mm pwk keihin carb. The keihin main air jets stop at 280, and the main jets stop at 250.

You know, that is very true.

Ok, Dyno Dave my motor guy is not the only one I know of running up motors that high on compression and running pump gas. Just about everyone I ride with that has a built bike runs high compression. Some are at 180 and run 50/50, some at 165 on 92 octane pump. The point is this, I think people are checking their compression with an inaccurate gauge. 175 psi on dave's snap on tester is 168 psi on a mac tester. So that said, you run the mac tester to 175 psi, its actually 182 psi compression. Thats why I think most of you are under the impression you need to run race gas at 175 psi compression, its because of improper accuracy of the tool you may be using to check with. another factor is squish also. The amount of space above the piston determines how the gases will compress and expand, then how the flamefront will travel in the dome. Dave told me he heard a 2-stroke detonate 1 time. It was an LT500 engine they had on the dyno at the shop. It had some un god like compression and they took it up to 8k rpm, it made a ton of racket, the egt numbers hit 1350 degrees plus and then it grenaded.

As far as I know you can only do the cam mod on the 439cc models, I think he is looking at a brand new one.

OK, that makes sense. Any idea what your squish is?

Thanks. In person its been called a pissed of bummble bee or sounds like a f1 car.

Let me check......oh.......yeah.......nop........kay.........well??????...... NO it still doesn't sound like redoing the head before every race sounds like its worth it. :: :wallbash:

Everyone in my camp uses wiseco stuff period.

The yfz hauls but and responds well to just a full pipe, jet kit, and air filter upgrade.

Ok, so usually a motor with around 170-175 psi compression needs to be running on at least 100 octane race fuel as most on here believe. Pro design lists all there head domes as race fuel needed except for the 22cc domes which are supposed to be stock compression domes. Now I run a 20cc dome and on a Mac compression tester it makes 165 psi on new motr, 155 psi after broken in. New ported motor with wiseco pistons is at 160 psi, and I suspect it will be 155-153 psi broke in. I am gonna bring home the matco tester from work and check it also. My motor guy that is a friend of mine uses a older snap on gauge that has been certified and he uses a direct metal fitting with a very small hose on it. His older snap on gauge reads 7 psi higher than his old mac gauge (mac has a long secondary hose on it). He says correct way to check compression is engine warm, both plugs out, throttle wide open 5-10 kicks and it shouldn't go up anymore after 10 kicks. His is the one I have talked about that runs motors up to 170 range on 92 octane gas. He says there are obvious other things to consider correctly though, one big thing is piston to dome squish. He said optimal range to run a higher compression (170 psi motor) is .040"-.065" squish. So that said: What gauges is everyone checking their motors with? What is everyones squish at? What pistons are we all using when checking? Does everyone have at least a well known tool company compression gauge? What domes are you running in your cool heads? Whats your compression?

Neighbor bought one despite me and everyone else telling him to wait a year and not buy the first year. He said Kawi was having issues with the pipes getting hot and melting the plastics already.

Will they let you wear one of those lightweight chest protector looking roost guards?

Unless you ordered the jet kit for keihin pjs then they wont work. If you looked up the carb kit under the model on rm's site, they will be for a stock carb setup. Usually the pj's that builder uses is 34mm's, you need to pull the carb and measure the inlets on the carbs to find the size.

Its a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe. Rich the owner at dynoport had his guy do a port job for the 2 into 1 pipe. Basically he said he was gonna give it something to accentuate the mid and a tiny bit top end power more and the torque would stay the same. Only thing he really told me was that they were gonna raise the exhaust port a little bit and clean up some other stuff. I looked at it, they messed with the exhaust port and raised it. The transfers, intake and and exhaust were all cleaned up. The price was $450 for just the port job. Its an invaluable deal to have the guys who made the pipe do the port work. No one knows what will work better with that pipe then they do. I also sent out the flywheel and had it lightened, and bought a new heavy duty clutch to get rid of the stock stuff under the cover. They also do all their in house testing on their engine dyno. There is a few snowmobile magazines that use them for product testing. Rich the owner won the asphalt snowmobile drag championship last year too. I kind of think of them as the little hole in the wall atv shop no one knows about, except they are a big snowmobile shop. They even make 2 stroke pipes for other bikes, and offer twin pipes for small and big bore Banshees. I actually talked with some well known builders in washington, Oregon and Utah. There was only 1 guy in Washington that was willing to mess with doing the porting for that pipe. I was gonna use him until I figured out Dynoport does port jobs. If this thing is any faster than it was, I am sure I will be amazed with it, cause it ran awesome before.

Thats almost the same gas make up of our atmospere!

I have been using haulers a long time, and you should to if you got 100hp coming out of that motor. The statement that you cant turn with a straight paddle is extremely false. I and EVERY other person I ride with runs them (16 Banshees), they get good hookup and turn just fine.

Been using wiseco pistons since the early 90's. Never had an issue with one breaking or a failure at all for that matter.

I am gonna go get back in that water hole at Spinreel on memorial day weekend. Spinreel Water Hole

The cylinders came back from being ported at Dynoport yesterday. I got them on and got it running, sounds good. No test runs yet though, gotta swap out a sprocket, put on a heavy duty clutch, and change out the clutch end hub adjuster with a nifty new pancake bearing one.

Theres a sandy place called the river bottom where all the locals go, its probably there.