Snopczynski

Gonna have to wait till I can double check the numbers. I cant find any good intake boots in the shop. All of them are cracked.

I dont know how thats possible since the bolt pattern for a rotax topend is not the same. Someone is either pulling your leg, or you did not fully understand what they were trying to tell you. It may bolt right up to a set of matoon machined cases for a rotax topend, but the rotax topend will not bolt up to a stock set of cases.

nope, the port windows will be too big to accomodate for the stroker crank.

my cousins bike did the same thing yours is doing after he thought he didn't need my help shortening my harness. We replaced it and it fired right up. You may have a tors wire shorted or something.

Probably.

why do you need pics, just re-route it where you want it to dump out. I didn't re-route mine. My bike doesn't get that hot anymore. I have a coolhead, and run a water wetter mix. I left mine in the stock location. I run a mr. gasket cap with a thermometer in it. I back off when it gets hot. If the coolant dump is in the stock location, then you know when it gets hot cause you see the steam off the pipes, and you can take it easy.

get the 28mm tm. I can give you jet specs to get it close. It should have pretty good throttle response and, maybe a little more power down low, and alot more power up top. Your gonna need carbs, filters, throttle cable, needles, mains and pilot jets.

I think the coolant resevoir is a really good idea. That guy is an idiot though, all you need to do is re-route your bottle overflow line, not the whole damn resevoir.

Let me check the shop today. I found three the other day, but I need 2 of them. Why do you need new boots? Give me a couple days on the setup, I got to figure out whats in the carbs. I know the mains are 410 (ported 350) I would get sizes between 370 and 420. I already gave you the pod filter part number. Do you need to know what cable part number it is?

spunds like a shorted wire in the harness. Try the new harness.

Doesn't their website have the install guides.

your gonna want a trail or mx port. Something with an exhaust duration between 185 and 188. Your gonna want to stick with a low-mid pipe or mid pipe. I.E. Pro circuits, fmf Gnarly, FMF Fatty, dynoport twins, and PTR mids. I would run about 155-160 psi compression for pump gas. I would run about 175-185 with race fuel. Dome size is gonna variate compression based on your exhaust duration. I would start with bolt ons though.

I would start out with some bolt ons that will get you power but leave room to do more as you get better on the shee. Maybe do some pipes, a cool head with domes, timing advance, lighten the flywheel, put in a clutch kit, and start from there. What do you mostly ride, and how do you want the power delivery i.e. low-mid, mid-top, etc......

yeah, your gonna want the power to work in the range he cuts your cylinders at.

Are you a pretty new rider? Do you know what you want to do? Peoples recommendations are going to be based on what the bike is going to be mainly used for. One guy may like a t5 for a trail pipe, but I say pro circuits. Then another guy make like a t5 for a play dune bike, but I say pro circuits, dynoport twin pipes, or old school fmf gold series. Or even a cpi. I am not a big fan of a company that copies other pipe designs. Or also has a tendency to design pipes that go backwards and actually make less power when they are supposed to make more power as the models progress.

Like I said its been verified on 2 entirely different motors with different configurations and different port work. I am talking about carbon tech reeds, not just aftermarket reeds. There is a difference, because you can get low, mid, or high tension reeds and that will effect where they work in the powerband. Like I also said, my setup has been confirmed with riding the bike and running it on a crank dyno. I understand all the variables you speak of, but I would not say something if I had not confirmed it and felt that it was a null and void point. I am not stupid, and obviously I know each banshee can be different. There are general things that always can remain a constant, and this is one of them. If you have a high tension reed with no rev plate that is supposed to move a ton of air like the vf3. Then its going to be a top end oriented reed setup like it is. If it is a low tension or middle range tension reed petal with a rev plate to limit opening and end flutter then its going to be a reed petal setup meant for bottom-midrange oriented power. The slits cut in the petal also limit the amount of opening and tension it takes to open them. Next time we have a lowend or midrange motor on the dyno do you want me to swap the reeds and cages again just to make that 3 tested motors with results pointing in the direction of the carbon techs again? I think at the magical number of 3 it becomes more than likely and more than just a coincidence that they made more power. We are not just looking at hp numbers here either. The torque is always more, and the tq and hp curve is also always bigger in the sense that it provided more acceleration and power lower down in the rpm range than the vf3's did. I dont know what slide cutouts we dyno tested, but if there is a standard cutout that most get shipped with, I would bet it was that slide. Also, is there different slides because of the air strikers? Like to say a .5 is in the pwk, and the 1.0 would be in an air striker? I know the air striker is supposed to be an mx carb for dirtbikes mainly. So slide cutout probably effects throttle response if I had to make an educated guess. All the pwk's we have and order they dont specify a cutout on them though.

cub motors are usually for drag racing. You also need to have some decent technical knowledge to tune the bike and fine tune it. T6 pipes would not work well for anything but a stock banshee motor with no porting.

Everyone uses small carbs cause when you dyno test a motor with huge carbs like a 35mm pwk and the tq and hp curve look like this _______________________________________/ until 8000 rpm. Then once the motor hits 10,000 rpm the tq and hp curve looks like this ----------------------------------------------------\. If you run a nice optimum size carb then you get a good hp and tq curve across the board, and the velocity on the top stays strong and you dont kill your top end. Too big of a carb willl make you lose topend power, as well as bottom end power.

Look on ebay.

Have you ever even ran both setups on a bike? Have you ever dyno tested the setups? I would guess by your resistance tha answer is gonna be no.

it changes color as it passes through the harness. Best place to look is the yellow lead out of the stator harness. Its 12v ac.

Low tension carbon techs are easy to find. If you want mid tension reeds I have to call Carbon Tech and make sure they kept the specs to cut them. Main 195, eej needle, start in middle clip, 45 pilot jet, 1.5-2.0 turns out on the air screw.

The 39mm is too big. If you know how to tune the power jet on the air stryker than it would be a good choce. Either way, you will lose velocity with too big of a carb and in turn lose power.

It wasn't just my setup, it was ran on 2 different motors with all sorts of different setups. They both have different port work also. The vf3 is a gimmick for anything less than a drag or top end only motor. I have verified the difference with my seat of the pants dyno also. Here is the problem with some people on this board. They read a guys post and don't pay attention to what he is trying to do. They just tell him wether or not he should buy something he is already looking to ask about. If the guy has a woods port, a ton of compression, a ton of timing, and he is looking at a 2 into 1 intake, then why would he need a high flow reedcage setup with no reed stops? I look at what this guy listed, and say a low tension or low end power reed petal with a stock cage will help him achieve what he wants to do. Just because his reed cages cost $200, doesn't mean they will work the best on his setup compared to a $75 set of replacement petals for stock cages. I do dyno testing and swap parts out on my bike for a reason, thats cause I learn what works the best and use it.