shanYE west

I was pretty shocked too.. They guy running the scale asked me what I was thinking it weighed.. I told him I thought it would come in high 240's... He kinda smiled and said how does 235 sound. But.. After seeing how everything is sqeezed into this chassis.. I can see it being that light. Hell... My carbs barely fit from the motor compartment being so small. There is also ALOT of aluminum used on the front end. Its deffinately a great design.. I'd buy another one if he was still making the chassis's. I went to the local secretary of state and they sent me to this place to get it weighed.. I guess its where they weigh the trailors for registration.

Alky is good for 10-13% increase in HP over race fuel... So I'm gonna have to agree with Moneybags on this one.

Can we get a update on whats needed yet? As soon as the water pump componets get here I'll ship my share.

Yep.. thats fine.

you dont want to bore your cylinders anymore then you have to.. The gains are minimal and not worth taking away cylinder life. But.. a properly ported and setup stock cylinder 4mil should be anywhere from 80-90hp. There is some stock stroke 350's making 90+hp on alky.. but.. that porting is very pricey...

A cub that size with no porting.. the SB's are going to be the best bet.

Looks similar to UPP.. Give it a whirl.

Last year mine was 235 wet and ready to race with full suspension. Probably coulda got it down into the 220's with struts and swaping out a few other parts. That was with my 421 cub.. My new motor will probably be heavier.

They have a good produict line.. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them.

Bump for a bad ass set of pipes for cheap!!

Had that problem with mine aswell.. but my subframe was tweaked a bit. Just get as many as you can and make sure you use the one on the silencer body.

Redline racing oil. for the mix and Gear saver for the trans..

Very sorry to hear this.. she will be in my families prayers...

The extremes are a bit thicker.. I could mesure them with my caliper if someone wants me to..

x-rings and o-rings rob a few HP on the dyno... Also.. non-o/x ring chains tend to have higher tensile strength. x/o ring chains are not needed for drag racing.. just keep them clean and lubed.. good to go.

Ploraris predators used a 4/156 bolt pattern for the fronts on the 03' and 04' models wich is the same as the banshee.. not sure about some of the newer stuff.. Z-400 use a 4/144 pattern on the front and 4/110 for the rears Honda 400ex and 450r's use the same as the suzuki

The stock linkage does a good job for what its for.. (Changing the progressive rate) I wouldn't buy the elka link unless I was buying a shock designed to use it. Now your looking at over 1k into the rear shock.. Too rich for my blood..

I'm using the RK MXZ chain for mine this year..

are you talking fronts or rears?

The roller from James lucky ATV is alot better design and cheaper..

Is that english??

If your looking to play it safe.. I would have a set cut from blanks.. A properly chambered dome will make more power and be more resistant to detonation.. Like I said before.. Call Dave @ NOSS machine and see what he has to say. Dan Wade @ Patriot Racing is also another builder that can cut some good domes.

Call Dave @ NOSS. Have him cut you a set. The PD shelf domes are crap IMO.

They dont make them.. Or atleast I've never seen/heard of them if they do. The 28pwk Keihin carbs might though..

I got the kicker.. but I dont have the pice that part that rides on the splines.... just the kicker.