johnson2011

alright well do you still have that dreen frame? and is it powder coated?

Would you accept payments for a frame?

Looking for a good straight titled frame, a complete set of aftermarket a arms, and good rear axle in the wisconsin area.

i think full flight arms are super cheaply made i had bought a set and had them for a year and a half . i bought them a year and a half ago and in that time i got so sick of them the joints are cheaply made a started rusting right away, out of the box they were super noisy by that i mean squeaky and annoying as hell one of the ball joints went to hell this spring and starting having play in the socket, and i broke the arms and tie rods this spring riding, as in broke i broke the welds on the arms to were they connect were the ball joint screws in, and bent the piss out of them. to be honest i would buy stock a arms over them any day from now on.

agreed lil rich wont hurt

alright guys im trying to figure this shit out so this spring i rebuilt my top end at stanard bore. and have fmf gnarlys on it and removed the snorkel from the airbox lid with tors removed. but when i got the shee the carbs were setup stock, and i figured that the jetting couldnt be right with aftermarket exhaust on it. so im trying to rejet it right now. and currently its bout 70 degrees out side and im bout 900 ft above sea level. my current settings are stock 25 piolets needle clip in the middle air fuel screw stock 1.5 turns out and i have put 260 mains in and top end feels good. but midrange runs almost like its boggy and hesitates till the rpms slowly catch up and runs like a top at wot. so when it was just above 70 degrees like 73 defrees F. i did a plug chop. from stop to through 6th gear at wot. and got like grayish tan color like in the picture. so i thinking bumping it up another main to darken it at wot a little. but what should i do about midrange? help please. thanks.

those are for the stock carbs right?

yea sorry guys stock carbs

so i was going through my moose rebuild carb kits that i got last year, and was looking at a these small jets that i believe they are the main air jets but they say 160 and there suppose to say 1.6 im just wondering does moose just do this as like a different sizing increments or just are they miss prints or what help please.

i had it with no air box one but i usuallly i run it with it on

fmf knarles with boyseen reeds uni foam filter stock bore

alright dam it was hoping it wasnt that, i kinda figured it might be thou. im gonna have it retested thou cause i was using a old ass tester that didnt exactly work right. i had it without an air box on too if that matters at all for those stock piolets and screw settings trying to start it.

so i rejeted my shee for winter and put 280 mains in it with stock piolets and stock air screws and everything for now. but it was too warm to test the new jets cause the top end was super boggy, so i let it sit for a while then tried to start it again when it now is cold outside bout 20 to 30 degrees F outside but the dam thing wouldnt start. so im like wtf and went through the carbs everything seemed to be fine in the synched them and tried it again nothing checked the plugs they were wet so i thought maybe fouled so i kicked it over and the both plugs sparked like a son of a bitch. so as a last resort i shot a small amount of either in the carbs and the bitch fired right up. but wont stay idling i drove it around and the topend felt great but as soon as i tried to stop i had to keep giving her gas otherwise she would die and i would have to give another shot of either to start her back up. i compresion tested her and it was about 95 psi on both sides, im lost need help thanks!

yea their the stock round slides, but yea this does help thanks