akita8

No Head gasket with a coolhead, just the orings.

My son has a banshee with race logic (I did the porting myself per the templates) ported cylinders, 35mm pwk carbs,crossover intake, noss cool head, dyna fs programable ignition, and fmf fatty pipes. We mostley do dune riding and was wondering what we can do to get some more power. He does very well shooting the hills (beats most other banshees and 4 strokes). Would it benefit us to get a cub kit or put the money into suspension? Also should we it be good to put the timing advance mod?

Does it only do it at idle or near idle?

Anyone use the acorn nuts and copper washers on their NOSS coolhead?

I am thinking of getting cheetah cubs with the 68mm cylinders and was wondering if I could use my Noss coolhead and domes with that setup or would I have to get a bigbore coolhead?

Don't now, but does anyone now the sizes of the orings for a NOSS cool head?

Check the compression

I think what your asking is if the bottle has no purpose then why remove it? The bottle serves as an overflow just like an auto. When the coolant gets hot and expands the coolant goes to the overflow. When it cools down it gets sucked back into the radiator.

If the TORS is still installed the slide adjustment is on top of the carbs. Turn both sides equally about 1/2 turn (ccW) at a time and try to start it. If the TORS is removed you can adjust the slides with the idle adjust screws on the outboard side of the carbs.

It could be blowing coolant out because the head gasket was leaking allowing the piston to pressurize the coolant. When your reving the coolant can't circulate and then when you idle the coolant rushes into the cylinder (super cools) and screws the piston up.

Try lowering your idle adjustment. It could br flooding out from the beginning if the slides are to high to start with.

If you just put it back together it could be the head gasket leaking letting the cylinder pressurise the cooling system.

I use the K9P coolant, I'ts yellow and keeps her real cool.

What was the problem?

What's wrong with the gear oil?

Make sure the choke tube is installed between the carbs.

Does anyone have a template for the transfer ports?

Use an impact gun. Be careful

You might want to try adjusting the idle down. I now this sounds dumb but if the slides are adjusted too high for the idle it will flood on the first kick and you will never get it going. Just turn the idle screws out until the slides bottom out and also make sure the adjusters on top of the carb aren

Sounds like the slides are out of adjustment.

Make sure your slides in the carbs are adjusted exactley the same.

Do a resistence check on the stator and if thats good do a resistence check on the coil, kill switch and ignition switch. Visually check the wires or if you are feeling ambitious do a continuity check on the wires (remember to check the continuity from end to end and also to ground). Make sure plugs are good. If all the checks are good it's the CDI that's bad. Ricky Stator has them for a resonable price.

If the TORS are removed make sure that you have the correct free play at the throttle (if you don't have the freeplay the throttle could stick) and then back the idle adjustments off equally, enough that the slides are bottomed out. Next check that when you move the throttle the slides move at the exact same time (if not adjust them at the top of the carbs). Sometimes the idle adjustment is high and floods the engine on the first kick. Start it up and adjust the idle equally until you get to a good idle. I would set the airscrews back to 1.5 turns out and start from there. I would also make sure that the slides are not backwards and the choke tube is secure.

Many a raptor has blown the intake boot. You might want to start it and spray some carb cleaner around the intake boots to see if there is a crack.

If you don't have the TORS any more you should have adjustment screws on the carbs for the idle. You can try backing these out till they are not contacting the slides and then bring them in EVENLY until you get a good idle speed and then check your slides again for adjustment. I'm assuming that the left pipe is only cold while your idling and when you rev it up it's OK. With mine the left cylinder was getting too much gas while idling and you could see wetness around the exit area of the spark arrestor. If the above adjustments don't work, inspect the left needle and make sure its not bent.