akita8

Check the wire harness on the rt aft side leading from the CDI. Sometimes it can melt to the pipe.

It depends why you are doing a rebuild. If you blew a cylinder you might want to wait to order the pistons. You can do a topend with the engine installed.

Are all of the ports redone (Transfers) or just the intake and exhaust?

Check you wiring harness that comes from the CDI on the rt aft side and make sure it has'nt melted to your pipe.

Have you ever driven one with J arms? I noticed that the head was not off a banshee. Nice wheels and tires though. Good Luck

I have a chance to get a 1989 Banshee for $1200. The top end is blown but the rest of the engine apears to be in good shape. It has a 2 into one intake, cpi inframe pipes and that about it. Is it worth buying a banshee with the J arms? I don't know wether I'd keep it or just fix it and sell it.

I have a chance to get a 1989 Banshee for $1200. The top end is blown but the rest of the engine apears to be in good shape. It has a 2 into one intake, cpi inframe pipes and that about it. Is it worth buying a banshee with the J arms? I don't know wether I'd keep it or just fix it and sell it.

My son had a problem with his banshee last weekend. It just died on him at the dunes so we towed it back and he got it running at camp but it would backfire. He thought he blew a cylinder so he tore into it and did'nt find anything wrong mechanically. I started shooting wires and found one of the wires coming from the CDI had melted to the pipe. Pulled it off the pipe and it ran fine.

Save yourself some time and do the compression check first. Good thing you has a Raptor there to tow you back. :biggrin:

Are the slides on the correct sides or maybe swapped carb bowls.

I'm a jet engine mech and have used the stat o seals many times and they work very well. I thought about using them on the cool head but just never got around to it. The seals are a little pricey and will be hard to find in metric sizes but a 3/8" should work.

Usually the black orings are made of flouro-carbon (Viton) and the reddish ones are flouro-silicon. They both have high temp ratings and either will work fine. The viton orings have a higher temp rating and have a better resistence to some fuel types.

What kind of carbs do you have?

If your jugs are ported I don't think your supposed to use the superstock pistons.

www.jetsrus.com or FARM and Sand toys (one of the sponsors of this site)

At -35c I'd stay in the house and wait for summer.

I whipe the carbs and the filter area that clamps to the carb with alchohol to get off all the oil and they stay on great.

I have used the top one for years and never had a problem.

Do you know what size jets are installed? Sounds like your pilot jets are to small or clogged.

Double check and make sure you have the small choke tube installed between the carbs.

The bore really does'nt matter. If you changed to a different type of filter or took the airbox lid off, changed pipes, then it makes a difference. If it was running good before the teardown I'd do a plug chop after breakin and see how it looks. Good Luck

If its to cold to work on the shee you might have some ice in the fuel system somewhere.

TORS are the throttle limiters on top of the stock carbs. It is where the idle adjustment is and there are electrical wires hooked up to them. If you set your idle to high it can be hard to start becuse it floods the cylinders on the first couple of kicks. If you just got the quad you should clean the carbs out and check that the bowls are on the correct sides. While you got the carbs apart write down the jet sizes that are installed.

It sounds like your running out of fuel and it is leaning out causing it to idle a little higher and then die. Did you try cleaning out the carbs?

Do you know if the TORS has been removed. I'm not real familier with the 87's and don't even know if they had TORS installed from the factory but if it is installed you might want to try and disconnect the wires to them and try it out.