differentstrokes

A local shop has an extreme 110 pitbike I'd like to have and the shop owner says he clears 30ft jumps pretty easy, doesn't sound like much but climb on one and it feels like a mile going 30ft I'm sure. A kid 2 houses down from me has a Cobra 50 jr. and a Cobra 50 sr. plus an xr50 which I rode the other day when he came by to see me and I about killed myself on it. The tires almost went flat when I got on the bike and I got kind of crazy with it too. I haven't messed with the Cobra's yet, I'll kill myself on those little bada$$ bikes. I'd definitely like to have an extreme in the near future.

If you kick the bike a bunch of times with the ignition off you can get gas out of the crankcase if you flood it, so I don't see why doing the same thing wouldn't get some of the coolant out since it surely isn't much. It should evaporate like animalman said when the bike cranks or the gas gets to it.

I'd think the gearing with 22" and 13/40 would be fairly close to 14/41 with 20" rears like current stock bikes, but I may be wrong. I'd also agree that weight would be the biggest factor with a minor change like yours. If you did notice it was geared a little higher, add a couple of teeth to the rear sprocket for a cheap fix. JMO

Thank god for stock pistons, if it wasn't for one of them blowing the wife would've never went for a nice rebuild on a perfectly good motor. :beer:

If you need to remove one again, loosen the nut until it's flush with tip of the ball joint and beat the sh*t out of it with a rubber mallet. A few good licks and it will separate without any damage to the threads, I do the same thing and never need a ball joint tool to separate them.

OMF will sell them to you direct and install them on aftermarket rims, but not stock since they have a rolled edge. If they do install inner and outer rings it will cost you out the a$$. You're better off buying them already done from OMF or get some T-9 bajas, which I've bent too. If you do decide to buy just the rings and have them installed locally, check with JL ATV PRODUCTS because they sell rings cheaper than OMF. They also carry Douglas red label reinforced wheels with their rings installed. T-9 bajas are still the cheapest option. JMO Jared

If you want filters for PJ and PWK's check Eddie Sanders Racing, they should list the dimensions and angles on their site or give them a call and they'll set you up. They carry everything you are looking for and the clamp on kits are $40 or less, but you have to buy the outerwears separately (which they carry). I forgot to mention them in my first post since I was thinking stock carbs for some reason. Jared

I'll probably give the 110 a try, it's actually a little easier to get since a local citgo sells it at the pump and I'd have to go to the airport to get the 100 av gas.

Motoman sells the same kit for $69.99, I've always had really good luck with them and Magic Racing. Check their site WWW.MOTO-MAN.COM

You shouldn't have a problem unless you can't get any traction whatsoever. I had the same problem on loose pack racing some 4 strokes. I would run neck and neck with them even with my tires spinning, but couldn't pull away without traction. Race on asphalt and you've got it. The thing about the 4 strokes is their torque, they have way less tire spin and the powerband is smoothed out so they go on dirt pretty easy and make good use of their power. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I tried that on my street too. It was all good until my chihuahua decided to dart out in front of me when I passed my house while I was burning through the gears. I did a freakin' hardcore endo and burned the sh*t out of my legs with the back tires when I put my feet down. If it was someone else's chihuahua I would've smoked that sh*t eater and kept going...but hey, I love my dog.

19cc and I'm at about 500 to 700ft in elevation (lots of hills). I'm running a mild GYTR cdi, but my motor is apart so I haven't decided whether to run 100 ($4.25/gal) or 110($5.39/gal). I just wanted to give the race gas a try so I went with the 19cc's to start with.

I bought a noss head too, I have yet to use it but it sure looks good on my bench. :beer:

I've ran maxima 927 with good luck so far, I use all of their other products too. I run MTL 80w in the tranny and their foam filter oil also. Good stuff.

Kai modded my shiftstar for me and everything came out great. Everything was fast and extremely smooth, I'd recommend him to anyone. Thanks. Jared

I bought a 2 into 1 from a site member but haven't used it yet since my motor isn't done. I'm tired of messing with duals since I don't drag.

Mine are still good after a year, but I spray them down in wd-40 everytime I wash them. It keeps them lubed pretty good and displaces the moisture. Just make sure you knock all the big clumps of mud and dirt off of them when you notice them or it'll work itself inside them pretty easy.

I had t-6's before too and I swapped to lrd rfx's (comparative to t-5's) when I decided to port and build my motor up a little. I haven't finished yet so I don't know the results, but I heard the same stock/ported motor debate and decided to go ahead and switch. I made a few calls to toomey and talked to the tech about what I wanted to do and he said bigger carbs hurt the t-6's, not to go over .30 on a head or less than 21cc on domes, and that bore size didn't really affect them that much. He said a mild port wasn't to bad, but messing with the transfers seemed to hurt the pipes. Call and talk to the guy, I think his name is James or ask to speak to the tech.

Need a billet impellar, looking for something cheap but in good shape. Let me know what you've got.

I smoothed out the bridges at bottom of the transfers, I just didn't cut the transfer windows any. Kind of hard to reach the way the angle is, the template instructions said it was optional so I'll probably leave them alone since I'm not going for drag. As for the timing, I haven't put the pistons in because the cylinders aren't bored yet. I've got .20 over vito's superstocks going in and they're cut on the exhaust side so I don't know how all this will turn out as far as timing goes. What's the best way to polish inside the transfer tunnels since dremel bits are a little big?

ASR have given me no problems either. They make alot of other a-arms too, just a different name and powdercoat color. Call and ask them. Pair them up with a set of elka or works rec series shocks and that's all you need for a weekend warrior. Big difference over stock and light on the wallet.

I know a guy that rides a banshee over around clearwater, I can hook you up to ride with him and his friends. PM me if you're interested.

I'm probably going to use some regular ball joints next time since the heims let all the gritty stuff into them where I ride. Other than that, they seem to turn really easy. For the price, the heims aren't to bad if you keep them clean. I think asr sells replacements for $30 a set.

I've got a GYTR cdi, which I think is fairly mild compared to most but I'm not sure how much it affects the timing and if it's possible to run a +4 advance along with it. Just don't want an overkill or problems later on. I'll be running 19cc domes with 100 octane. Any input would be appreciated. Jared

I'll get some pics of the exhaust ports, they came out good and I polished the insides. I'm not going to mess with the transfers, I just cleaned up the bottoms of them and polished them smooth. Not really looking for anything drastic, just a good gain for trails and playing around.