SAVAGE420

Damn, i have one on the way. Im sure i can get it to seal great if she starts to leaks though

Just seen this now. Looks good alf. Keep posting as you go.

Yeah +1 for ALF, good stuff.

Hahaha you mother fucker

Dammit, straight is the ticket. What compression and timing are you running right now and plan to run?

Yeah FOUR YEARS AGO.

Can i get a #5 & a #3 with large fries, onion rings and XLarge Rootbeer. Oh wait....

We all know that man, no need for you to get all paranoid. I was saying baker short for bakersfieldturbo (Derrik)

Well what do you think he posted in

Sure. I run 50:1 ,so do lots of people.

LMAO for real.

Ive run it for years in sleds and my shee. Never a problem. But no need to run it if your comp is low. Theres a few long threads with people that dont like and people that do.

Cascade carry's some. But all you need to do is like i said and zip tie your filters together lightly. OR you can just go to any auto parts store and get some header wrap. Stuff is real cheap and takes seconds to put on.

What oil do you run? When you say your rich, do you mean oil rich or fuel rich. Because at 40:1 there is LESS fuel going into the motor (leaner amount of fuel) but more oil (richer). AND with 50:1 there is less OIL going into the motor (leaner oil) but more fuel (rich) Understand the diff in the two? Anyways if your running a full synthetic oil 50:1 is fine I run Amsoil Interceptor at 50"1 for years and there no problem. Thats what they call for. If your running (dino) standard oil then i would run it at 32:1.

I go with .030 with a BR8ES running 100LL.

Yeah, those are for where the front of the air box sits. I cut mine off flush also. You can also lightly zip tie your pods together so they dont rub against the stingers also and burn over time.

Vitos or Cascade style? Anyways its pretty easy to install and you don't need to remove the clutch plates. Pull the clutch cover, remove the pressure plate spring bolts, remove the old adjuster from the pressure plate, stick the pancake bearing in between the pressure plate and the inner hub, put it all back together and you are done. After you put the springs back on, make sure you use the adjuster on the pancake bearing to alight the shift actuator with the arrow on the case, but sometimes if your cable is stretched it might not line up so go by how it feels. Also check your ball and rod to make sure they are in decent condition. The pancake bearing is cheap insurance to make sure they don't get welded together.

What you need is #20 (Clutch basket Lock Washer). http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/showschematic/m6965sch112894 But mine did the same thing a few years back and the tab broke off also from being took off and on a bunch of times. So i wanted to ride and ordered one from the dealer for like 5 bux and i just hit it hard with and impact like usually and rode it for a year like that with no washer in there. Not one problem at all. Then when i had the clutch and basket off again, i used the washer i bought at the beginning of the year and that nut was still tight as all hell.

Sold some wheels and paddles to Drew. Easy to deal with, cool guy, pays when he says, No bull shit with this mofo. Would deal with him again no question about it.....

Thats square then if you know the harness is 01

Damn straight. Get-r-done.

Pics.

Yeah turning it off is good. Myself, i usually clean them out 1 time every couple seasons and i ride a shit load all summer long too. I also run 100LL and Amsoil 50:1.

Undo the 4 small screws holding the bowl on, pull bowl off, and drain the waisted fuel out for nothing No need to drain the bowls. Just turn your petcock off after you ride.

I would run both these main jets. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361&view=&hl=Post%20your%20jetting&fromsearch=1 http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html