SAVAGE420

There shit.

Only reason i use them is so that my 35's clear the clutch actuator arm. If they cleared without them. They would be sold to the kids down the way.

If you want to be cool, copy me http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c164/savage_420/Carbs002.jpg

19' From front pivot to the top carrier mount point. 20-1/4' From front pivot to the rear of the carrier

The complete length of it? Or from the center of the carrier to the center of the front swing arm bolt?

Where? Into a black hole and lost in oblivion?

Bend it out.

People have humor, just that was done with when it was posted here 3 times in the last couple years is all.

Great deals right here. Don't mind ree-ree, hes just a troll under the bridge with a clubbed right foot.

Yes they do. I use all there skids also(a-arms, belly and rear), beefy as all hell and take a beating. Give them a call. Make sure you blue lock tight all the fasteners or shit will rattle apart. You need the hooks or the bolts?

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Pinned at the top. Lots of setups just like what you have. But then again, you didn't list your riding temps and altitude. Have a peek.

They will fit. I used to run 30's for a couple years in the past with an air box. All 4 boots fit, just were a tight fit. You wont have a problem.

http://photobucket.com/

Ya Ryan, listen up man WTF

No. Between 1-2 is neutral, it's the lil half moon cut out. No need to grind down between 6-1 gears, but wont hurt anything if you do. Make sure you do not let neutral touch the wheel on your grinder at all!!! In the pic, im in first gear. Blue lock tight the screw that holds the star in when your done afterwards also. Here, i messed with my pic so you can see what all is going on and what shit it and what it all dose. Click the pic bigger so you can read it. \/\/\/\/\/ Understand now? Its really no big deal to do.

Well some what. You can do the shaft mod to anything. Just don't use the shift pro kit or do the star mod with an override.

http://www.fast-fibers.com/

No, just the one nub that would be between 6th-1st don't shave down. But you know what, it wont hurt anything if you do that one also, just its more work for nothing as the star does not go past 6th gear so, once its in 6th, thats it and the drum wont turn past that.

It's a lil Traxxas nitro rc truggy.

Really simple to do, take you 1/2hr tops on a bench grinder. Do the shift shaft also when you have it out. Heres a thread i have pics in from a while ago. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126900&view=&hl=shift%20shaft%20mod More info that you will want to read. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127372&view=&hl=shift%20shaft%20mod Ill try and find some pics of a stock plate ive ground on a while back, it's really damn easy to do also. But there only 35 on ebay for ones already done from the factory.

The Inside diameter on the pods where they will clamp onto the carbs will be need to be 49mm (1.9") they fit perfectly. The straight 4" long ones will be more then fine for what you have. But if you insist on having the 6" long ones then you will probably need the angled 15° ones so they don't hit on your stingers. 4" straight ones. Part# UP4200ST 6" 15° angled ones. Part# UP6200AST There in this list, scroll down a bit. http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/universal.html

Change the pump seal, it's leaking. Do the bearing also since your in there. 1hour job messing around.

2 years? Anyways, it's always good to keep the parts in labeled bags if you have never took one apart and put it back together before. I mean, you don't want to get it together and have a couple bolts and nuts sitting on the bench and think "where they hell do these go". If you get stuck on something or forget, just ask. Lots of people to help you with it here.