SAVAGE420

Really?

I got this Streamline one for 90. Think there 160-180 regular price.

I love my damper. Dont know how i rode with out one. Its not be any means a $500+ Scott or Precision damper but it works well for what it is (Streamline Billetanium 7way adj/rebuildable). Got a killer deal on it from Alba's booth at Sandfest it Coos bay a couple years ago.

All good to go now? Damn reserve got you huh Go rip on it now.

Most defiantly it will have some more seat of the pants punch. Most cases you wont have to re-jet at all doing the head and timing. But weirder stuff has happen, so just make sure everything is fine before you go romp on the throttle. You can also mod the stock timing plate to get +4 also. Still some pics around im sure. But pretty straight forward. Good luck man. Let us know

I never said i was going to get some. I wouldn't get them unless your intakes were the square type on the back where it would sit up on the VF3 cage, then there would be some flow issues for sure going for square to round.

Well you will still have to scrub it off ether way, thats why i said get them up to operating temps then rub off as said.

Get them up to operating temps again. Then put some leather work gloves on, grab a bucket of soapy water and get some fine steep wool (000 or 0000) and rub it off easy with the steel wool and lots of soapy water. You will NOT scratch them i guarantee you. If you don't believe, then try an inside part you wont see when there mounted. They wont scratch. Works really quick . Ive had a big chunk of my riding pants and some leg skin melted on some T5's i used to have and thats how i got them off and everything went smooth and looked brand new after.

I don't, but my PD intakes are round on the back side and match up the the VF3 opening perfectly. I think the VF3 stuffer's are for when the back side of your intakes are square also so everything matches up better and more flow on bigger motors. What intakes do you use and whats the back side, round or square?

I see you have +4 timing already in your profile so your good there. I say throw i lil more compression at it. You can shave your head for some extra gain, or buy a cool head and have more options for later depending on what way you decide to go with the motor. Your at 1100FT but what fuel do you run or plan to run?

From what i gather, the super has a smaller intake side on them. Same size as stock jugs so the reeds and intakes from stock or cubs will bolt right up as well as the head. Also heard that it's (intakes) are just to small to keep up with the rest of the cyl properly . The cheetah uses YZ250 intake and reads as the intakes are much larger. Also uses its own head and domes. Pretty sure the port layout is a little different also. Someone correct me if im wrong.

There OKO30's I used to run them for a few years. Never had a lick of problems. Some people did have problems with the bowls running dry on long WOT pulls though. But theres a easy fix. Im almost thinking the ones from a few years ago didn't have any problems like that as i never had and bowls run dry as well as a buddy that got some at the same time never had a problem also. I really liked them though, easy to tune, didn't have to pull the bowl to change the main jet. Good all around performance and great price. Fit in stock intake boots and air box boots also.

I use 4 trays just similar to this for ¼″, ³⁄₈", ½″, ¾″ drive http://www.berryintl.com/images/cst2.jpg Work really well with a small foam pad under it so they don't slide at all. Keeps them neat and tidy and where they should be when your looking for something. Then for extra special sized sockets of bigger and odd shaped sizes i use a couple post type like these in a deep drawer with double sided tape so they don't move around or fall over. http://www.denlorstools.com/shop/images/HNE92000_l.jpg Then for wrenches, screw drivers and specially tools i just have them on tray mats all in order. I will take some pics later if needed. If its one thing i hate, it is looking for a tool and it's not there. Or a messy shop and tool everywhere. Instant steam outa ears syndrome

Did you test the ignition coil, wires, caps, stator, check your pick up gap, kill switch, key and the whole harness quickly?

Did you PC or paint the frame? If you did, you will have to scrape off a bit where the grounds are. If you didn't paint or pc, well then grab a $15 multimeter and test everything from the ignition coil, wires, caps, stator, check your pick up gap, kill switch, key and the whole harness. If all that checks out then borrow a buddy's cdi that works. Lets us know what you find or need a hand.

Im pretty sure i seen them online years ago also. Just looked at all there valves on there site, don't look like there is now. Maybe email them and see. I wouldn't mind having a reserve on mine.

Ive never used the tool, always done it by eye even on triples. Always works for me and others. If i had one, i would try it out though just to see.

Mid 70's.

Check back with your findings or if you need a hand.

So how was it? Any cool pics or vids?

Nope, mine is fine. Your doing it all wrong

I like it.