JET 99

alot of overtime and some double time on weekends adds up.................. my job is pretty cool, there is always some sh.. either wore out or somebody has loaded, set up, or pushed the wrong button at the wrong time....... i do machine repair/weld at a place that runs work for catapiller and allison transmisssion plus some oil field work.......... med size lathes 30-120hp spindles med size horiz. mach. centers 20-50hp spindles med size vert. mach. center 15-30 hp spindles a few manual knee mills,bridgeports,saws i stay busy enough sometimes to busy.......... soo all work no play makes it easy to save the pennies!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer:

i have the laeger +2+1 and love them...... also have axcalibar rear axle with both spacers behind the rims, it tracks wonderful..... right now not doing to much but getting parts ready to put it back together. motors is out in kansas.... new lights,06 black plastic set,acerbis hand guards,temp gauge,ez pull clutch lever,nology coil+ wires,200w stator and adj. plate,33's, v-force 3's,intakes,jeff's clutch setup,noss head w/20 domes,woods play port,lower case port,shift shaft mod+ spring,sync tool and i few others i think.............. should be sweet when it is back alive.................... the swingarm and rear suspension is still on my list of things to do i will stick with elka as my choice on shocks and that link sonds sweet........

i have a little millermatic 135 mig with 75 argon 25 co2 a little higher co2 content helps to boost arc energy.. if you prep your metal well light powered gmaw gives you good penetration up to 1/8 in metal 1/4 in starts loosing some penetration.... prep also cuts down on spatter.......... tig is still the most precise and controlable form though.. stick .... if your welding your tractor frame or implement or some structural steel ...... just a little info. my 02 pennies banshee00 is dead on....... i paid 720.00 for mine including the cart and a 60#tank (filled) you can use flux core wire but your welds will be much better in apperance and penetration with shielding gas... you dont need any fancy triple mix gas just 85%argon15%co2 or 75%arg25%co2

NIGHT should be one of the nominees.................................................

.020 cleanup bore, weld/true crank, bearings and seals, noss head 20cc domes,cyln. woods/play port,lower case port,pistons & rings,v-3s, intakes, 33 carbs, upp boots to air box, air-b adapter/k&n,shift shaft mod&spring,jeffs hd clutch setup,pipe clamps, trail light set,e-pull clutch handle, i think thats pretty much it..... he has a running list that i seem to keep adding too........................ i forgot nology coil and wires and 200 watt stator and 4 deg on adj timing plate

a small 115v gmaw (mig) welder cannot generate enough energy for penetration of very thick steel. on the other hand 480v 3 phs miller 456 cv pwr supply with wire feed processor can get you into spray transfer.... 3 main catagories short circuit(low volt low wire speed) erratic arc arc occures every time tip of wire touches puddle. small and large globular(med volt setting and ipm) forms ball at end of electrode wire arc jumps puddle erratic. spray transfer .035 er70s-3 27.5 v 420 ipm 85%argon 15%co2 sweet no spatter welds on 2 in. plate 4130-4140 alloys use pre heat and post heat no crack welds great penetration nice apperance. do it on alot of cat and oil field parts we make where i work... tig (gtaw) is a very controlable welding process... mig (gmaw) easy to use but depends on application and material / fast for production type welding stick (fcaw) practical not quite as easy to use as mig, little harder to control arc and puddle (burn through) my .02c

troy yamaha of ohio has some descent prices on full sets of new plastic.................... i think it was $369.00 for the regular blue and white sets i know it was $469.00 for the limited edition black(cause i got a set) $40.00 shipping.......(not to bad) i cant wait to start putting all back together. motor is at jeffs and i got a pretty big goodies list with him got some acerbis uniko handguards from rocky mount. atv. debating on some other stuff for the shee damn i think i got the sickness...........................

it must have been really loud for you to keep your caps lock on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shoothead:

semper fi! t-6s give a little more low end on a stock motor but they dont respond well to porting.. t-5s have a good (powerband) top end hit and they love when you port the cylinders... my only recommendation is if you dont like your pipes looking shitty after awhile get... CHROME ...................................... the black steel version is very difficult to not have them look like shit after a few good trail runs,that is were i am at right now the bike had them when i bought it. 2 year later i have taking them off twice sandblasted and 1200 temp paint it flakes down by cylinders at bends... right now i just blasted and painted and baked paint while waiting for motor to come back from builder we will see how it holds up this time... i am not a big fan of chrome (it aint what gets you home),but there are certain applications where it serves a purpose besides the bling factor............ mcrd san diego,camp pendelton,cherry point mcas. macg. 28 .3rd laam bt.hawk maint 89-94

hope your holidays bring you special joy this year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i am glad to hear the turn around on your daughter

oh no you didnt just do that????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? please do a search on jetting and plug chop before you touch your banshee with any mods you will save a ton of money and alot of frustration and abuse if you do alot of reading in the jetting and exhaust forum..................................................................................

if you get serious you should try talking to one of the builders mentioned on this site.... I dont want a builder war on this thread ........................... dont ask me who?????????????? search and ye shall find if you care to do so. they could probably put a package deal together for a good price, probably better than mailorder or the big retailers like alba or trinity just my 0.02

i am not sure of the exact size but you could use a pin style spanner wrench. they make atleast 2 diff styles for outer diameter. one is pin style(round hole) the other is for notch style(groove). that might help with the extra support while trying to tighten.... mine has a little damage on the edges of the two holes i used while tightening..... it aint a perfect world.

i got mine tight no end play or side to side i used blue loctite on threads of axle nut and on threads of tension screws never had to re-tighten them have checked several time, not any looseness for over a year. :thumbsup:

right now your stock...................... t 5's(porting later,let motor breath) billet impeller(more flow,wont crack like stock) cool head 21 domes(pump gas, little compression bump,crank not trued/welded) tors removal kit and jets...........(pipes,get rid of problem you dont need,air filter change) adapter and filter(run with out lid,increase air flow) v-3s or adj timing plate(either gives a little bump in hp) that would give you a good base IMO

no shit here, but you need a map when you go somewhere new! guess what think of your repair manual as a road map.......... it helps you see where your going and how to get there.............. it is worth 25 bucks just for the piece of mind that your doing it correctly.... it is your ass that is going like a bat of hell when shee is pinned WFO......

:beer: looks pretty solid..................... you will be suprised once you start with your mods....... axle looks stock,you might want to check your seals and bearings in carrier..... check your compression that is a good indicator of condition of motor..... check tranny fluid see what it looks like when you change it...... might pop off water pump cover check your impeller for cracks........ if frame is straight, no cracked joints in frame or a arm tabs, shock mounts i dont think you did bad on your purchase. they are cheaper here in the midwest versus west coast...... :beer:

i should have my shee back together sometime in january... i like riding at the badlands they have several different types of terrian....... i mainly stay over to the left of the parking area but its always a blast!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i live on the s west side of indy......... would def. like to ride with some of the guys on here. they are all a good bunch......... :beer:

you gotta watch that shit smebody might take you up on that and wreck your shit on purpose :blink:

if you plan on keeping it awhile invest in a good compression test set..... craftman makes a real nice set that has the correct fitting you need 60-70.00$ the choke on my stock carbs were the same way.......... timing,compression,pipes and reeds are best power adders for starts.. carbs,porting and evrything else are good after the basics.. dont forget about your suspension it sucks and no one here will tell you different. my motor is out right now getting cyld ported,case ported,bored,crank bearings,true&weld crank,new pistons,rings,clutch,shift shaft&spring,intakes,v3's,33 carbs,nology coil&wires. thats the motor new easy pull clutch handle,trail tech light set,throttle cable,acerbis hand guards,kill switch tether its easy to get into it but you end up working alot of overtime to pay for it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! good luck :beer: ps................ loose the boost bottle bad mod do a search!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

check the banner on top of your screen FARM AND SAND TOYS

before fellow hqers can answer you ................................ tell us what types of riding dunes? trails? woods? what do you want it to do?????? top end power a stronger low end and mid range what type of gas do you want to run in it any suspension upgrades planned? billet water pump impeller is a good uprgade to do what ever you do dont ask about a boost bottle .............................................. please do a search before bringing it up if you do you will learn why i am telling you this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer: :beer:

best wishes to you and your family........... be strong and have faith...... she will feed off of your strength when your by her side my thoughts are with you :sad: :sad:

what exactly are you trying to say???????????????????????????? i am not understanding....................................................

if you are thinking of a shee............ first thing the stock suspension sucks. that will probably be the first thing that bites you. it doesnt take much to find the limit of the suspension. you can go from mild to wild with all the aftermarket A-arms and shocks...... that should be your first upgrade........ IMO..... then start with the motor........ if you do suspension first you will be able to handle the speed and power of the motor and all the stuff that is gonna come at you alot faster if you decide to get a shee you will be able to use the power on the trail with a good suspension. best of luck on your decision...................... :beer: