dawarriorman

Nothing, unless it advances the timing. And a $35 timing plate will do that.

I didn't say it was a bad thing, I agree its a good thing to do. And next time I have my crank out, Im going to weld it. My point was I don't trust other people messing with my motor.

Tell your friend to STOP, and not let him bore it out. All he's doing is wasting overbores, and shortening the life he can expect. What happens if he puts it all together and has a leak in the intake boot and blows the motor. Its happened to more than one person on here, and if it happens to him, he's fucked and has to get new cylinders. Not to mention, the power gains from boring the cylinder are minimal. A timing plate would be a bigger and cheaper power gain. And a 66.5 mm bore would give a final displacement of 375 cc, not 362. Only bore the cylinder when its needed, and only go as far as needed to clean the cylinder up.

Yeah, Id use tire irons instead of a flatheads. These are aluminum rims, and if you scratch them, you stand a good chance of giving yourself a permanent slow leak. And I was just thinking this since I recharged my AC in the truck today, do you guys think that if I hooked up the vacuum pump to the tire that it would pop the bead? Or would it just pull the valve stem into the tire? Or would it just make the tire look goofy and not do anything? I'll try it tomorrow and see.

If you get aftermarket shocks, get them for a banshee, the valving will be for a banshee, which is what you are riding.

If it says forest service approved, your fine. Screen type spark arrestors aren't the only kind, and I don't think the pro-circuits were screens (could be wrong).

Well, while it might not seem like it from some of the posts (and that the off topic forum used to be in this same spot), this forum is now General Banshee Discussion. So when people don't read, they assume your talking about your banshee.

The way I look at it, if it has a welded crank, that means someone has been into the engine. I don't know who it was, or how they work on stuff. Myself, Im particular as hell, and don't want anybody touching my engine. Ive seen too many people working on engines and doing things that just scare me (I once saw the mechanic at Durhamtown beating tranny gears back onto the shaft with a metal hammer). Id rather do it myself. Not to mention, why were they in the engine in the first place? Most people wait until there is a reason to split the cases.

The stroke of the engine is determined by the distance between the pin (where the rod mounts to), and the center of rotation of the crankshaft. If that pin is 30 mm from the center of rotation, that means that from TDC to BDC the total stroke is 60 mm. Move that pin 2 mm further away, and you increased the stroke 4 mm. The length of the rod doesn't matter to the stroke, it only determines how far away the piston will be. The benefit to a longer rod engine is that it lessens the rod angle and helps to relieve stress.

There is a benefit to running more oil. Non-synthetic oil will release more energy than gasoline when burned, which means a richer ratio will give you more power. Now its not alot, probably less than switching to oxygenated gas, but it has been shown on dynos (there was a big thread on this on planetsand). If you use a good oil, it isn't going to "gunk" up anything either. You'll smoke more, and have more oil coming through the pipes. If you do foul plugs using more oil, just go to a hotter plug. Make sure your jetting is right though. Trying to run a leaner ratio of oil has no benefit whatsoever (unless having your 2 stroke smoke really bothers you), and will leave your engine with less lubrication. That being said, yeah the guy that wrote that article is an idiot.

Same here. It works fine if you use it right. Of course yamaha is going to recommend that you use yamabond, they want to make money.

Hmm, if you say so. I'll go ahead and ride right on the edge, and not go over it. The one wreck I had (see avatar) was enough.

Yep, I ended up getting the MSR under jersey one. And damn, sounds like some of you need to stop wrecking all the time :laugh:

Ok, since you didn't read the thread, I'll summarize. DON'T buy this kit. While its durability may be ok, it WILL increase bump steer. While the added width will improve handling, the high speed stability will be compromised. There is no way around it. The people that said they didn't feel bump steer probably don't know what bump steer really is. It occurs when the tie-rod is out of alignment with the a-arms. The tie-rod steers the wheel as the wheel moves through its range of motion. Its determined by the geometry of the front end, and moving the a-arm mounting points further from the tie-rod ends increases bump steer, period, end of story. Buy wheel spacers, flip your rims, do anything other than buying this kit.

Tonight is my break. I got fucked up at the baseball game last night. And apparently Afroman is in town tomorrow (yeah, I didn't know he was still around), so Im getting fucked up to go see that.

Cool, thanks. That MSR one was what I was thinking of. I skimmed through RMATV, but I guess I missed it. This place is pretty relaxed (Durhamtown Plantation), so I doubt they'll really care what kind it is as long as you have one. They didn't use to even care about boots. They've had to get stricter over the past 6 months or so because some asshole parents sued after their kid died. No Im not being thoughtless either, these parents got Fox to do an expose on the place, and tried to make it look like it was a death trap. Honestly after I saw the piece when it was aired, it made me sick the way they acted, they never even looked sad. All they wanted was somebody to blame because it couldn't be their kids fault. He had never been on a MX track ever, and decided to hit the freestyle ramp. With his parents right there doing nothing to stop him. ::

The place I go riding at on the weekends has now decided that a chest protector is mandatory on the MX tracks (damn insurance fools). Its stupid if you ask me, since chest protectors were originally designed for roost, not protecting your ribs in the event of a crash. I really don't want one, but since I must, I was wondering if anybody has any experience with them. Basically I want a cheap one that is comfortable and I won't notice is there. So anybody got any ideas?

Yep. Best 6 bucks I ever spent. And they seal better than the stock caps.

Yeah, 70-80 lbs your engine wouldn't run. You are kicking the engine over and over until the guage stops rising right? Usually takes me around 10 kicks. If you are, then you need a compressions tester.

The only real advantage to the iridium plugs is longer life. They are really hard to foul, and even if you do, you fix the cause of the fouling and they'll clean up enough to keep running. I used to use them because I put the airbox lid on when I washed the shee, and would always forget to take it back off until I rode it, fouled the plugs and it stopped running. Take the lid off, it would fire right up and run fine. They lasted for over a year with me doing that probably a dozen times. Only reason Im not using them now is I still have new sets of b8es lying around I figured I might as well use. I'll probably get them again next time I buy plugs.

I tend to agree with dajogejr on this one. Who cares if the revs fall off faster, they are only going to fall off when you let off the gas. And the banshee doesn't exactly have a ton of engine braking anyways. On a 4 stroke then sure, keep the heavy flywheel, not on a banshee though. Course I also think going for low-end power in trails/mx is stupid too. Who cares if its all top end or bottom end? The width of the powerband and how easy it comes on makes more difference than where that power is. Theres a better chance of higher horsepower at higher rpms (since it takes more torque at lower rpms to get the same hp).

Pipes, then shocks and a-arms. Suspension makes a HUGE difference. Especially on a MX track. If you can take the turns without slowing down as much (braking bumps), and can fly through the whoops faster, you'll shave a bunch of time off your laps.

There was a good thread on planetsand awhile ago about premix oils. I can't remember who, but somebody spent some time, and as it turns out, your best bet is to run a dino oil (non-synthetic) and run it at a rich ratio. The reason being is that the premix oil (non synthetic) burns with more energy than gasoline does. Run more premix, you end up with more power, and better lubrication. He ended up going to like 12:1 and still showing power increases. Now 12:1 is overkill, and these gains aren't anything big, but the point is don't be afraid to use oil. Trying to run crazy 100:1 ratios with full synthetics is a waste. I use Golden Spectro (synthetic blend) at 40:1.

Don't focus on the adjustment too much. As long as you can push on that lever (the one on the case) and have some slack, the clutch is fully engaging. If you can't get any free-play, then the clutch isn't engaging fully. That adjustment is really only adjusting the length of everything that pushes on the pressure plate. Go past the arrow, and you can take that all back out as long as there is enough adjustment at the lever. What kind of oil are you using though? Are you using an automotive oil? Some of those will cause slippage in a wet clutch like bikes and atvs have. Did you line up the arrows on the pressure plate and the hub?

The adjustment at the engine won't really do much for slipping as long as there is slack in that lever. What kind of terrain are you riding in that you're basing this on? Take it out on asphalt and ride it. Its a really distinct feeling on asphalt when the clutch slips. You said the clutch is new, what about the springs? Are they heavy duty? You can get springs that are stiffer than the regular HD springs, throw 3 of them in there. And what kind of tranny oil are you using?