ojcool

Looking for a complete engine for an LT250R rolling frame. Consider anything as long as it's complete with electronics ect and running, or minimal work needed. We can fabricate mounts for it. PM me if you got something or know someone who does.

Anyone ever seen an LT250R with any different engine/trans combo on it? I'm wondering if I can pick up a 500cc dirtbike engine trans that I could get on this frame with some fabrications.

You can port the stock cages with results similar to aftermarket ones. Some say they are better than aftermarket. Personally I run SRP cages. I can't say I felt any difference between them and the ported stock ones. But the look kinda cool. I like the boyseen reeds though. Not a big fan of V force.

I'm pretty sure if your burning your oil you are running the bike way to lean. The oil is supposed to lubricate, not burn. I noticed once I got the fuel in my bike all of a sudden there is unburned oil appearing in my silencers. And now it's not smoking, thats because I'm not lean anymore and therefore I'm not burning my oil. Burning oil is bad.

Well, heres where we are. The jug has to be bored. It's going to end up .060 over so it will have one bore left. The crank has other issues so it's going to MrCrankshaft where Vince is going to fix it right. He said putting the longer rod on it is possible but not advised. The bike is getting all new bearings and seals including A arm and Swingarm bearings. Reeds will be stock. The frame is getting stripped to bare metal and repainted black. The case and Jug will also get paint. So when all is said and done the bike will basically be a 260cc trail ported ripper. Hopefullly a nice looking one. Rear wheels are alum but the fronts are stock, and crappy. It already has holeshots on it so I guess I keep them. Pipe will most likely stay stock as well. I don't know if I will pony up the cash for new plastic but once it's together most likely it will.

Well, the schematic shows hardend washers in the Crank Journal as well. I don't have any on this crank... Well, either way, you have seen the video of the crank conditon.. The bottom line is, can I put this crank back in? As stated there is no noticeable up and down play in it. I also have access to an Arbor Press, Don't you need jigs to change rods? Or can I just press a new one on? The clymers manual give NOTHING as far as rebuilding the crank, it states you need specialized tool and jigs to do this. Am I wrong in saying the crank should have washers in the journal?

No doubt. I have never had him do anything for me but I talked to him on the phone one time and he is def very cool and very free with info on anything. I honestly need to spend some money with hm cause he is a very very rare bird in the performance world. Lets see what he can do for the olde lt250r...

Well, the link also showed washers in the crank journal with the rod. There are no washers on the crank I have... Heres the deal with this bike. They guy I bought it from bought it from some guy for $150 and he had supposedly put a new jug and piston in it. Well the guy brought it home and rode it once and it started knocking. So he parked it and it has sat for a year or so (outside) and he never fixed it so I picked it up. I never started it since he said it had problems. I never got to hear the "knock". If you look at the video at the end I hold up the piston and show where the top ring expanded in the ringland and locked. So, the "knock" could have been piston slap I suppose. There is no detectable play in the up and down motion on the rod. However the play side to side seems excessive to me. But if you say thats normal I will believe you. I just don't want to put this thing back together to have is start knocking as soon as I start it. The missing washers bother me. dajogejr- Your saying I can put at 91+ crank in it and get some extra stroke?? Do I have to add any kind of spacer? The clymer's manual claims 7:1 compression stock so this is obviously an area where I can pick up some power working the head. Unless just tossing the 91+ crank in will give me some stroke as well as compression. Also the bore is very clean, no scores. I guess I will just buy another .040 piston and hone it. I of course have ported the jug. (no port timing changes)

Heres a vid of the crank.

Ok, so there are no washers on the crank journal with the big end of the rod. I guess whoever worked on this bike must have pressed the pin out of the crank journal and never replaced the washers. So, what does this mean for me? I do have access to an arbor press, however, is this something I can fix properly without jigs ect.???? So, if not I guess I'm in the market for a whole crank, rod setup for this bike. I have also measured the bore of the jug and it's obviously been bored at least twice. I'm getting 2.810 " of course cause I don't have a metric micrometer. 71.374 MM converted. So I'm getting .040 over.

Well as you may have read earlier this particular one is before they redesigned the engine to a powervalve. It has a different reed configuration than I have worked on before.. Course that only includes the banshee. I wish it was the 87' and later model but for $125 I can't bitch much. Anyway.... Case is split. I found nothing broken or out of place inside so I'm thinking there was nothing wrong with the trans, at least nothing obvious. When I put it back together I may find something different though. All the bearings (in trans) feel nice and tight. With what they cost it's hard to justify not replacing them.. Especially since the fluid that came out of said trans was the thickest grey good I have ever seen. I would hate to put it all back together and suddenly have bearing noise. On the reeds. The stock ones are steel and in order to do anything to them you have to pull off the jug. They look like they would flow like crap but the whole design of the engine makes it appear that it dosen't make power via that pathway. From what I see the reeds only come into play when the piston is on it's way up, and the intake ports are covered by the piston skirt. (prior to exposing the skirt intake holes) I guess what I'm getting at is there any power in changing the reeds. I have to say I was not impressed with the performance gain on the banshee when I went to different cages and reeds. It was pretty hard to feel any difference at all except for throttle response, and that was borderline if you ask me. But being that it's such a pain to change them with this configuration I don't want to leave power on the table. Anyone got any advice on the reed situation? What do you think was wrong in there that made it miss gears? A LIST OF STUFF I FEEL LIKE I NEED TO BUY FOR THIS PROJECT - Case gasket set $20 -New rod bearing $18 -New piston $78 (wiseco) -New wheel bearings $38 for all -New control cables $50-80 -Swing arm bearings $40 -Ancillary crap $100

$125 heh heh. Yeah I just want to clean it up and make it into a trail ripper. Hopefully the trans isn't screwed.

I started porting the jug today. I hope I didn't screw up by opening up the exhaust passage to match the pipe flange. There was a big drop in the port roof right before the exit so I took it down to match the flange. So far I have not touched the intake ports. The transfer passages a huge so I don't see the need to fool with those. I'm still not sure what to do with the intakes. I guess I'll just do what I always do which is enlarge the passages and work them for flow. I won't change any port timings or sizes cause I want the torque. Now we come to the case reeds. They are TINY! Is there any way to upgrade these? I'm just going to work the passage some and match the port to the reed block. I would appriciate any guidance here. Should I work the reed passage into the intake more? I don't want to cause a bunch of turbulance in the intake by changing the angles unless that is considered a good thing. How about another vid to show what I'm talking about.

Anyone with any experience with this bike? Please post any advice.. Here a quick video of what I have found so far.

Overpriced for a CDI.

Depending on your elevation you may need to change the needles. When i first brought one home at 187' I had to drop the needles one clip to get rid of that bog.

Has all the ingredients of a scam... Sounds like he was buying time to get you passed the 90 day complaint period to me.. Somehow he can ship cars all day long but shipping an ATV is this big struggle.. Do difference if you ask me.. I would start a dispute with PayPal immediatly. Hopefully you paid by credit card and not via direct money in PayPal cause you only get your money back with a direct bank transfer IF the seller has the money in his account. Total BS if you ask me since PayPal always presses you to use direct bank transfers instead of credit cards. Then they don't really secure bank transfer money.. If you paid by credit card I would decline the charge immediatly. It's not personal.... It's business, if they guy dosen't understand that just ask him if he sends people cars without any payment... You have every right to delcine ANY payment to this guy when you don't have a Banshee. See the deal was you pay him money, he sends you a banshee. No banshee, no money. Anyone who plays poor me in a situation like this is out to scam you. Besides you could easily drain the fluids with one arm... What this guy has no friends who can come over and drain the fluids.. If he dosen't it speaks volumes about what kind of person he is.

My neighbor and I are considering buying an old LT250R from a guy in my neighborhood. He claims its an 84 but from what I have read they didn't make them till 86... Anyway it's in pretty rough shape and he claims it has bad crank or rod bearings. Also there is no third gear. He says it runs but we didn't try to start it since it's got crank issues. The plastics are screwed of course. Front brakes work but the back mastercylinder isn't holding anything so it need replacement. The price is right $125 I am wondering if it's worth screwing with or not. From what I have seen the parts are pretty cheap. The original goal was to set it up as a sand drag bike. I'm wondering how fast we can get it on a budget or if we should just clean it up as a trail bike or what. Whats everyones opinions on the LT250R. Is it worth screwing with? I figure it prob needs new bearings all around in the engine and maybe a shift fork in the trans. I don't see these issues as very expensive to fix but without splitting the case it's hard to say what else could be wrong with it. Please advise. He has the exhaust off of it and it looks like the piston is free of scores. You can see it moving when you kick it so it didn't throw a rod.. You don't hear any bad noises when you kick it. Is there any chance there is major damage in the case anyway? Is there anything we should look for to tell us more about what kind of condition it's in internally? How bad can the trans be? He claims it has a brand new jug on it and new piston. It is holding SOME compression but it's not impressive. Course it's been sitting for a good 2 years. Can the jug be bored? Apparently some cannot due to some coating on the cylinder walls.

powersports*parts is one id he uses. The other is buddy_windsor He finally shipped me what I ordered. But he's still an ass, It took over a month and paypal and ebay disputes to get it.

Things get real exciting, real quick when your slides are sticking. We went to the sand drags a couple weeks ago and while we were waiting to stage I was just sitting there revving every once and a while. The line moved forward and I went to take up the slack in front of me and they stuck WIDE OPEN. Needless to say I gave the guy in front of me a little surprise when I rear ended him. I hit him HARD too. Luck for me it was one of the guys we came with and there was no damage to either bike. Didn't do it again the entire day..

From the looks of the poser shot of him on his dead stock banshee I doubt the bike gets ridden very hard, so most likey he will be fine with his weed wacker oil. Actually I'm going to have to take that back, He has "neodymium magnetic drain plug" in his list of mods, so you know he means business. Besides, I'm sure he has spent countless hours at the sylvin learning center researching the properties of castrol weed wacker oil. You know thats not really a lab coat they give you, it's one of your dads old button down shirts you put on backwards.... My teachers used to call it a smock.

Pussy, what is that. Oh I guess thats your name.. Well nice to meet you pussy.

buddy_windsor aka [email protected] powersports*parts aka [email protected] Are both the same guy and an Ebay scammer Don't buy anything from this guy. R C Sudnick 8545 Wood Hill Drive Thompson OH 44086 440-298-3378 Total Ebay Scammer Sells alot of Yamaha clothing. Totally took me for an auction. Dont' think that just because you use PayPal you are protected, your not. This guy has set up muliple Ebay ID's with identical user contact information and listings and ebay claims there is not enough information to prove it's the same person. The only think I have yet to provide them is video of him acutally doing the scamming, and even then I bet they would say they still can't be sure it's him.

Attn: 65983cobra!!!!! You are gay, that is all

And what exactly do you base this off of? BTW I have from a reliable source that the man who started this thread owns a strawberry shortcake lunchbox.