ojcool

A knock sensor is going to pick up knock far before you would hear it with your ears. OBDII cars run at borderline knock almost all the time. I'm not sure what your trying to say about pre and post Cat 02 sensors. After CAT 02 sensors do nothing as far as fuel or timing. They are there for one reason, to verify that the CAT is functioning properly. Detonation is not destructive to ANY automotive engine; Diesel engines run off Detonation. However I know what you ment. Hypereutecnic pistons are a great innovation.

I bought my wife the Raptor 350, same motor and trans as the Warrior (so I'm told).. Good reliable bike so far..

Hey, anyone here ever ride in Crumpler WVA? A bunch of us are going on Labor day weekend.. Any BansheeHQ Members that want to come out I'll buy your beer!!!!!!!!!!!!! And anyone who has the balls to jump the Gardrail at the top of the stairs gets to drink off my bottle of Knob Creek for the weekend.

Anyone know if they make a cheaper alternative to the foredom tools for porting? The only one's I can find are CCsupply stuff and the Foredom stuff. They seem to be the only people who make a right angle tool small enough to do anything. I just don't want to cough up the $320+ for the handpiece. If anyone has one they want to get rid of or trade for any of the following items. AK74 totally legal I think I have run 30 rounds through it. With syth stock

Just guessing but I would think that your symptoms may be by, lets see....... incorrect wiring. Your going to have to give just a tad more infromation, like, where your picking up your signal. and is your tach even supposed to work on a banshee

Believe me anything dajogejr thinks is "a shot in the dark", heh heh, just kidding bro. But seriously mine does that too and I have pretty much decided it's the water impeller (stock). Are you SURE it's coming from the left cylinder? Mine sounds like it is but it's not. If it was a main or rod bearing usually the noise gets louder when you rev it. Mine go's away completly when it's revd.

PM Me if you have a set you widh to sell.

brake clean then let it dry good and spray 2 stroke oil on the crank and bearings reassemble and start.

I'm very pleased to hear you say that very true statment about high octane fuel. It never ceases to amaze me the number of people who think that running a higher octane fuel automatically makes more power. When it comes to cars there is nothing in any automotive compter that has to do with octane, however if a car has a knock sensor the PCM can certainly pull timing to protect the engine. IF it has a knock sensor. The manufacturer programs the compter to run safely on 87 octane fuel at 100 degree outdoor temperature from the factory. This is why you can buy a pre programed chip off the internet that will net some small horsepower gains by adding some timing to the borderline knock table. There is much more to be had from a professional dyno tune but you can gain a few HP by just adding some timing on most cars. But you then HAVE to run 91+ octane fuel. I don't know why but I still put 93 in my Banshee. I did put 4 degrees of timing in it though, so it's better to be safe. BTW does anyone know what a banshee Jug bored 80 over displaces as far a cc's?

So what your saying is to your knowledge Vito's does not modify the pistons they sell themselves? I was under the impression that they ran a thinner skirt than the Wiseco, or is it just a different intake port. If that is in fact the case why don't I see people modifying the pistons themselves. (as far as the intake port). I'm curious to see if the super stock acutally gives a 6hp gain in an otherwise unchanged engine. Yes I am interested in what the best piston is. In my experience it is generally better from a longevity point of view to use a high quality cast piston in natrually aspirated applications. It's funny about stock pistons because I have had some stock shortblock engines outlast their "high performance" counterparts even at silmilar power levels. It has a great deal to do with the people who build the engine. It's really hard to find a really good machine shop, and even then it's only as good is how the guy running the equipment felt that particular day, and how important your particular project is to him. Sometimes it's really hard to break a factory engine.

This is a poll to gauge the quality of the different pistons avalible for the Banshee. Please select the poll answer that best discribes the failure that you (or someone you know) experienced. Please DO NOT post a failure that has a vailid explination, such as incorrect jetting, or any other reasonable explaination for the failure of the part. Please post the experience just don't let something that is unreasonable affect the poll results. Please also detail as much as possible what happend. This should give us a good amount of data about which pistons are the most prone to failure. I could only put 10 options on the poll unfortunatly I wanted to include more brands.

Nope, Once again your wrong.. an A/F meter is acually measuring how much oxygen is in the exhaust stream. Typical, you type a long winded post with false information. Your A+ certification is NOT the equivalent of a college degree. You really are funny. A/F ratios? Well that really depends on what your doing. Typically I would send out a turbocharged car with a 11:1 A/F ratio with confidence even with a non forged piston, but I have tuned my car to as lean as 12:1 down low to spool the turbo harder. 12:1 would be considered on the edge in my opinion at the top. I would tune a natrually aspirated enegine at 13:1 all day safely even with a cast piston. Supercharged, well that depends greatly on air inlet temperature (intercooled via air to air or chemically) and of course how much timing and what fuel we are tuning with. Of course you don't seem to think timing is an important tuning factor. You may be surprised to see what effect a degree of timing (advanced or retarded) has on A/F ratios through the entire powerband. I noticed Zeitronix says that use with two stroke engines will significantly reduce sensor life. Yeah, oxygen sensor, cause that's what a real A/F ratio meter uses. According to you there is some magic sensor that reads A/F ratios being made somewhere. Unless your talking about tailpipe sniffers which are completly inaccurate useless junk. And I would bet (heres the difference between you an me, I'm not going to ASSUME anything) that they use an 02 sensor anyway but I have never taken the time to investigate that since they are useless junk IMO. A/F at load, I answered, A/F at cruise.... Well if you knew anything you would know that it's competly normal to see ratios as lean as 15:1 to 18:1 at cruise (or decel) on fuel injected engines. Now, explain to your supposed audiance where I have posted ANYTHING that is not completly factual. You however have been caught more than once saying things that are COMPLETLY FALSE. You truely are a total asshat. All I have ever said is that you should not give advice unless you know EXACTLY what your talking about... Thats it. Thats what your arguing about. You disagree? Well obviously you do since you have spend so much time posting in this thread. Your humble servent, stu Oh, BTW I like how your little buddy posted that I was a dumbass for running my pilots at 1 1/2 turns out...... Hmmmmm sounds like he knows what he's talking about. If thats your audiance I can't think of a more textbook example of "the blind leading the blind". Also, nice try, I said the compression RATIO is not affected by altitude, but since your grasping at straws you need to feel like your making some progress. Once again, you cannot say ANYTHING I have posted is false.

No margin for error... I love how you tell people to tune their bikes on the edge all day long. Only a complete dumbass would take advice from you. You know while you sit in your parents basement all day typing on this forum other people are out there actually working for a living. You think your post count indicates some level of mechanical knowledge. When in reality all it indicates is that you have waaaaaaay too much time on your hands. The thesis of your argument is always "It's not totally unsafe, just not reccomended".. Don't you think when your giving people advice you should err on the side of caution? Your 29 years old (according to you) and what have you accomplished with your life; other than severe engine damage due to detonation? I have worked part time at a dyno shop for the last two years of my life. You so F'ing stupid that letws see, how you put it. "the a/f ratio changes as the engine revs"........ Well genius people spend thousands of dollars on the dyno trying to prevent as much of that as humanly possible, so once again, You don't understand simple engine mechanics but you feel qualified to give eveyone advice. And yes, I own a A/F meter, but once again showing how idiotic you are you forget to mention that a Meter by itself can do nothing.... First you need an 02 sensor, and then it also needs to be a wide band sensor, not the kind you find on your moms stationwagon. And then to really tune properly you need to use a data aquisition system to collect the readings and plot them on a chart where you can see the A/F ratio VS RPM. So you can acutally tune the engine. See you have NO IDEA how REAL tuning is done.. You ride around tuning by feel and looking at plugs. Guess what genius PLUGS CAN LIE, I see cars all the time that are running lean on the bottom and rich on the top, when you look at the plugs..... guess what, they look rich as hell but the EGT's (thats Exhaust Gas Temperature genius) are dangerously high.... But that's not important to a guy like you, because so and so said once that this is ok than thats the end all be all for you... Your a one source Historian. Oh and we are not talking about cars right, we're talking about two strokes... Apparently thats the extent of your expertise. You are unbelieveable, you spend hours searching for data to back up your idiotic posts in a pathetic attempt to discredit me. I have been 100% honest about what I do and don't know about 2 stroke engines... So lets review, since the beginning of this thread we have determined that 1) you back up all your statements with links to other peoples web pages 2) you clearly don't have any understanding about how compression ratios work because you think that the ratio changes if the altitude changes (wrong again dumbass) 3) you have no clue how an A/F meter works or what it acutually measures (not to mention what a safe A/F ratio might be) 4) You live in your parents basement and are currently unemployed because you are on this forum basically 24hrs a day.

I noticed your still giving advice to people at elevation. I like how you tell the guy to run an extra 5 degrees of timing with 91 octane fuel.... Good advice. Keep it up...... boooooooommmmmmm See the truth is you don't really know anything about real tuning. The only way to truly know if your tune is safe is with an A/F meter. I'll bet you can't tell me what is considered save as far as A/F ratios. (too bad you can't use one on a two stroke to my knowledge) Plugs are not the end all be all for tuning contrary to your limited knowledge. And timing..... I'm not even going to bother trying to explain that one to you. Just keep advancing it untill it pings then back it off about 1/2 a degree. I'm sure you will get great results from that system, It's right up your alley. Should run like a dream.. BTW don't you have a job? Or you make your money "fixing all your friends bikes"

Sigh, If you read my post (even at your reading level) you can see that I had not even taken the plugs out of the bike yet. I asked if I should put a larger jet in to start with. Listen, I really don't have the time to go back and fourth with you about who is smarter; so let me just sum up all further post on my behalf to just three words........ YOU ARE GAY So from here on out you just post whatever you want and when you need a response from me, just read those three words, and continue on as if I was there. I'll check back with you in a week or two to see how your doing. Thanks, Stu

Wow, you really have no life. BTW I just finished a weekend jetting the space shuttle. Lets hope it won't blow up caused I used your theory on altitude correction factors.

You write like you think......... Poorly. What can I say bro, you know it all. "the air is thinner up there so it flows into the engine easier" Wow, two words, basic physics. Like the kind you would have learned in "consumer chemistry" when you were in highschool. I guess you were too busy "fixing all your friends bikes" to go to class though. Stop crying and let it drop. It's amazing how tough people talk on the internet.

Yeah, smart guy. You don't see me posting completly idiotic crap either. Your tone on your "informative post" was that of the wise carb guru taking the new guy under his wing... I was reading your post and it was so apparent you have no concept of physics or of how carburetors work it scared me that someone so poorly informed was taking it upon himself to give advice. I'm thirty years old bro. I have been working on cars my entire life. This is my first time seriously dealing with two stroke engines; I know how to read plugs. The only reason I posted was to get a starting point for jetting a bike I had made multiple changes on. See the difference and me and you is, I'll never blow up an engine. Because I have never tuned a car, and I will never tune a bike, on the edge. But "on the edge" is subjective; the question is what is your tolerance for risk vs. reward? You can pull an extra 20-30 hp out of a supercharged mustang, but is it worth letting a car go out the door that is tuned to run on 100+ octane fuel? Because people like YOU are going to drive strait down to the neighborhood Citgo and proceed to fill the car up with 87 Octane fuel and go out to show his buddies how fast his stang is. Then when the car detonates itself into 10,000 pieces while you

If it's bogging in the mid I would drop the pin a notch and see if it cleans up. Put your airscrews at 1.5 to 2 turns out and see how it does. Is it really bogging or is it breaking up? In my experience bogging is really rich and breaking up is just pretty rich. Either way I would drop the needlie a notch and see what happens, if it gets worse you know your lean, if it gets better you were rich in the mid.

Hmm maybe you should not be giving advise. Make sure what you post is accurate information. One article isn't enough research to be advising people anyway.

That means you need to drop the needles one step.

I do with they would include a dyno sheet on them though if they are going to make those claims. I can't find any other info other than on magics site about them.

I got a set. I love them. They are really well machined. Excellent quality IMO. Def worth the money. I didn't even touch them with the dremel. They looked that good. Excellent smooth power through the entire RPM range. The bike just feels alot nicer. I had stock ported cages in before. I would say they are as good as V force if not better. But I have not used V force. I prefer Boyesen reeds for their two stage design. Check out the snowmobile forums. Those guys really rag on V force, couse that's a different application.

I truly believe that the boysen Reed is the best thing going. I know most guys subscribe to the V force but just based on the flow characteristics of an engine the dual reed design is superior IMO. I like the fact that their are smaller reeds with less resistance to keep up the velocity in the low and midrange and the full cage is opened up with the larger bottom reed when the flow demand is there. A dyno may prove me wrong but it just makes engine building sense to me. Of course their is twice as much to go wrong with the dual stages. Just my two cents.