ojcool

Slides sticking. Are you running pods? I have found that with pods the slides will stick alot. Pretty much every time you start the bike up. I think its condesation getting into the carbs when it cools. I dunno what else it can be. Use a prouduct called "slide and glide" its a silicone lube fixes it for a week or so. I'm going away from pod filters for this reason. The stock box really isn't that bad (with the top off).

Bike ran good at sand drags last weekend. Ordered a set of zippers for next time.. We will see how it does with some traction. Current settings are: 187' elevation 340 main stock needle center clip 30 pilot with screws 1.5 out Prodesign coolhead 20cc domes LRD adjustables +4 timing Pod filters Trail port .080 over Wisecos

Victory dance? That statment only exposes the fact that this is a competition for you.. I don't get it, you spend all day all this forum trying to give everyone advice... Lets take a look at some of your All Star Posts from this thread... I've said it time and time again, a dyno and A/F tuning is a great idea to get you close on your jetting. However...I've also said, experience, a good ear and learning to read plugs is the final solution.... Final Solution huh, nothing else could possibly be better.. You sould like the guy who argues that cassette tapes sound better than CD's because they are analog. We fear change In a two stroke, the mixture travels into the crank case and up through the transfers. While a four stroke, the mixutre never enters the crank case (unless your rings are really...REALLY bad)... So, that's where the extra volume comes into play would be my guess, nothing about the cylinder holding more volume....the crankcase is part of the overall volume. I don't even know where to begin with this statment... So are you acutally implying that the volume of the crankcase is part of the combustion chamber? While there is fuel bouncing back and forth in the chamber, the standards for tuning via EGT are just that. 4 to 6 inched on the pipe from the piston. Like anything, most builders have a temp range they like to run in for gas, and a different for alky...but, that is how it's done. So here we say that EGT is the way to tune, but then we backpedal from that statement and say EGT was never mentioned. Also....just like a dyno A/F meter and as I've said before. This is a good way to help tune the engine, but should not be replaced for reading plugs and piston crown burn patters....So once again we think guess tuning is better than exact tuning. even if you get it dead set on a dyno or a/f meter, you still gotta read the plugs from riding at your actual temp, elevation and locale!!! If I was going to another elevation I would simply use a correction factor, or bring my laptop and make 1 pull and know exactly what I need to change and where. I can tell you with 99% certainty you don't need a 30 pilot with that setup... 27.5 is plenty fine. I can tell you with 100% certainty that it does. You know how? Because I have the information, I'm not guessing I'm knowing. You know I let you make multiple comments in this thread with your smart ass tone and I did nothing... But I'm pretty much done playing with you. Your not posting in this thread because you care, your only in here to discredit me because your feelings got hurt the last time. Just don't participate in any threads I start, stay away from me and I'll stay away from you. Lets just say what you have been implying from the start.. I'm an idiot and I have nothing to offer anyone.

Hmmm, I guess Nascar does 10,000 plug chops when tuning a car... Sorry guys, I disagree, you may be able to tune pretty good by "feel" and "reading plugs" but the bottom line is, you can get more power out of an engine tuning with todays technology. It's not just a matter of getting it right, it's a matter of how long it takes plus as stated before INFORMATION... Lets say for example you have the engine tuned for a certain timing setting, and you change said timing by one degree, and you want to know how that affects said engine.. Chances are your not going to see that very dramatically on a sparkplug, once again MAYBE you could, but that would be experience and how much time have we invested in gaining that?.. It's still a guess at best, maybe a educated one, but it's a guess. Well on a dyno with a wideband your going to see that change, your going to see EXACTLY what it did, if it made more power, and the affect it had on the a/f ratio..... So now you now have the INFORMATION to decide if that was a logical change. You can decide if the risk of running more timing is worth the power you may, or may not have made. You can also REACT to changes that the extra degree of timing made on the a/f ratio. So if it leaned the a/f ratio, which typically it would, you can add the fuel to make that conditon safe.. And then run the engine again to see if you have negated the effect the extra degree of timing made, by adding fuel to make the a/f safe.... So then again you have the INFORMATION to decide if there is more power in this configuration of if your beating you head against a wall. You see by repating this you will eventually reach the limit of what the engine is capable of..... If your just adding fuel untill you get a good "plug chop", IMO your leaving something on the table AND your taking chances you don't need to. So to those who say "it costs so much money to tune that way", your right, it does cost more than running around with an adjustable wrench and a set of sparkplugs. It's funny I have seen so many people who will go spend 10,000 on parts but will not spend 800 to get the car tuned safe. And it's not really that expensive, a wideband costs around $200. In the scheme of things 200 is really not that much compared to what parts cost. It's up to you, but don't imply that I'm an idiot because I'm using a different method that what you have been doing with your adjustable wrench. I will stake my name on the fact that you can get more power out of a banshee tuning with new technology than you can tuning by "feel" and reading plugs. Bottom line is, NO ONE who is winning races is doing that in professional drag racing.

No, I don't intend to run Methanol. And I know how to read plugs for the 10,000 time. Reading plugs is NOT the end all be all as much as you want that to be true, it's not. And deep in your heart, you know it.

I understand why you think reading plugs is the end all, thats all we had back in the day, but we have better tools now. You have to let go of the "old school", not to say there is not a place for it, but tuning with a wideband is so far beyond reading plugs that you cannot even compare the two. Heres why: Reading plugs is very subjective to what the experience of the person reading them is. Alot can be told from them, but only as compared to what experience is. A wideband a/f ratio is not subjective (other than how your taking your measurement) it's a great deal more accurate and consistant than reading plugs. Beyond that using a wideband give you so much more information than even the most experienced plug reader can. You get data from the entire RPM range. Plus the accuracy... You cannot even compare the two. The reality is reading plugs it totally unnecessary if you know the a/f ratio is safe and the engine is not detonating.. Now heres where your right, unless you have a knock sensor, detecting knock is also subjective to experience, that is where plug reading has a place in modern sensor tuning. We need to use ALL the tools we have, there is no silver bullet when it comes to tuning, the more information you have, the better off you are... And everything should line up to support what you believe is going on. If you A/F is just peachy but the EGT's are out of this world, you know you got a problem, just like if the plug is pig rich but the a/f ratio is lean.. well you might have a sensor problem. When you get into tuning cars with multiple power adders i.e. turbo and nitrous, or a turbo diesel running propane injection and water injection, needless to say there is ALOT more to tuning a car like this than reading a sparkplug. You need information. The only reason why I'm not concerned about reading my plugs is how the bike runs, and the fact that we are not really talking about a power adder engine here, there is SOME function of forced induction here but not enough IMO to worry about EGT's. And THAT would be my only concern with reading plugs, remember I'm running 4 degrees of timing, not 10. Plus 12.5:1 A/f..... totally safe, in fact, overkill safe.

Well, the bike makes 165psi at 187' elevation, so it's borderline. Thats why I'm running an additive. I did the porting myself. There is no port timing changes. Torco has worked perfectly fine for me with a number of applications. Why do you feel it necessary to argue that tuning via wideband is not the way to go? It really baffles me. A/F ratio is THE most important variable in tuning any engine. What exactly are you suggesting is the answer here, I have yet to read you offer any solution, all you are is the board critic.

.080 over Trail port pods +4 20cc domes LRD pipes adjusted for torqe Fuel additive is Torco I should not need to tell you why I'm running the additive. Yes chop would be ineffective Right now the bike is tuned to 12.5:1 A/F ratio

I'm not tuning via EGT so I don't know what this has to do with anything. EGT has some bearing on what an engine is doing but it is only important to me when tuning with a Turbos. A/F ratio is them most important variable in any tuning application.. Timing affects it, air temp, fuel type, pretty much anything that is going on with an engine will show up in the A/F ratio. There are some "tricks" that I have used in the past to deal with unaccepable EGT's but to actually "tune" with that data only would be dangerous in my humble opinion. But i suppose it would give you a margin of safety, however I don't think it would be ideal for getting the most POWER out of an engine. I can tell you this, since using the A/F meter the bike runs better at every RPM, it's a completly different bike. It makes more power and has more low end torque than it has ever had. I'll look at my plugs the next time I change them, but without a power adder, I don't really see any need to check them other than sheer curiosity. Besides I am using a fuel additive to make my fuel and it discolors the plug so It would be difficult to tell anything from them. I am planning on putting the bikes on the dyno at some time in the near future and we will just find out what the potential for drivability and power is with tuning this way. .. I plan to see what different jets do and where. For example I will see what you actually end up with when you do what is the norm of putting in the richest jet the bike can take and then leaning on it till the drivability comes back, I have a feeling we are leaving alot of power on the table doing it this way. Stay tuned for the results..

You have been misinformed. Heat has nothing to do with it, other than the preheater in the 02. It measures oxygen content and this has a direct correlation to a/f ratio. Welding bungs into the expansion chamber is NOT going to give an accurate reading. There is raw a/f charge bouncing back and fourth in there.

Well think about it though, when the reed valve closes, and the piston is moving to the bottom of the stroke, there would be a degree of pressure created inside the crankcase, and when the transfers opened it would force the charge to blast in. It would have to because the reed valve isn't going to let the pressure escape. When you think about it a two stroke engine is really a mechanical marvel.. I think we can all agree on that.. Well I ran the bike two more pulls tonight and it did get significantlly richer with the 340's in it.. It's till blowing (inconsistantly I must add) 13-15's. My modifications have not given me the smooth results I had hoped for. The A/f is moving all over the place.. Unfortuantly I don't have what I need to datalog with the RPM vs A/F, I'm having to do it a/f vs time, so it's hard to say where i am in the RPM when it's rich and where it's lean. I guess I'm going to buy what I need to log the rpm as well, and start from there. It does seem to like the 30 pilot though... 1 turn out on the screws and it it's still not loading up in the low revs. I have the bike geared too low as well, I have a 13 43 on it right now cause I was riding trails.

Alot of variance in opinions on this subject. Since it's not raining today I should have some results to share by this evening.

I would fix the float and while your in there take out the pilots and jets and see what size they are. Post the sizes.

I disagree. A two stroke engine is almost exactly like a supercharged engine save three very distict differences. 1 the boost is created by the "sonic reverberation" 2 the boost is only significant at the rpm that the expansion chamber is tuned for. 3 the boost enters from the exhaust port instead of the intake. Any way you slice it at certain RPM's the volume of the cylinder is beyond 100% of the stroke. Therefore it is not what I would call "naturally aspirated" although Whitey's definition does appear to fit. A supercharger does not create boost with a "turbine" it is created via centrifugal force with an "impeller" in the vortec style blower, via positive dispacement with a "roots" style blower and and contrary to popular belief a turbocharger is "thermally" driven, not mechanically. When a turbocharger is pushed beyond its efficency it becomes mecanically driven via the backpressure on the turbine wheel, however this actually costs power and is why turbochargers are rated in CFM and Trim. This is also why you can command any amount of boost you want, however is will not continue to make power. The exhaust temperatures will simply increase to the point of literally melting the turbine and destroying the turbo. This is why they have a wastegate to bypass the turbine after it's efficiency has been reached (if your wise enough to set it there) A turbocharger works the same as a centrifugal blower on the compressor side of the housing. Nitrous oxide works in two simple ways, neither of them involve increasing the amount of air in the combustion chamber beyond 100%. But I digress, what we are really talking about is if 14:1 is a safe A/F ratio for a banshee engine, it is my contention that is would be unwise because the increase of combustion pressures at certain RPM's would dictate that more fuel be added to lower the combustion temperatures, and more importantly prevent detonation.

Well, I'm not sure a banshee engine would be considered "naturally aspirated" since the expansion chambers are supposed to function like a supercharger at rev. On cars we don't see much of a variance in A/F ratio at cruise with a carburator. Only in fuel injected applications where the fuel trims are constantly working. I can't say with accuracy this would be true on a banshee however I would not expect to see it. I would have reservations tuning for anything leaner than 13:1 on a banshee, but I have only just started fooling with them. I would be curious to see some data logs from one being tuned with a wideband, if anyone has some, please post them.

Have you seen that done? I don't think thats not going to work because there is unburned fuel traveling back and fourth in the expansion chamber. So it's going to read way rich. I think this is the way it's going to work. The only place that would be better is in the mid pipe but welding bungs in there is out of the question because the sensor would be blocking the pipe and creating so much backpressure you would not be tuning for the true condition.

No, you can't put it in the silencer. I don't know what kind of sensor the guys you saw were using but the LC-1 has to have the back of the sensor exposed to the outside air to function. It compares what is coming out the exhaust to the oxygen in the outside air. I changed a couple things about the setup now, we will see how it goes. Typically when we use these on cars we weld bungs into the header collectors which, needless to say, is significant further "upstream" from where I'm measuring from. However I have made some changes to the way I'm measuring and I expect much different results this time. I'll keep you posted.

So, I find myself unable to resist the urge to use a wideband 02 sensor to tune a couple banshee's . From my reading we are targeting a a/f ratio of about 12.5:1 so I'm tuning for 12:1. Day one: Got an old platic briefcase and drilled some holes in it so I can bungie cord it onto the bike safely... Since it's going to have my laptop in it I want to make sure it will NOT fly off. I have a Innovate LC-1 Wideband 02 sensor with the controller ect.. It also comes with Log Tech software for datalogging the results of the run. First problem encountered it the need for a 12 volt source. I solved this problem by taking the battery off one of my cordless drills to power the LC-1. I just used some aligator clips to get the juice off the battery. Second problem. How to plum in the 02 sensor so I can get a reading. I took a piece of 3" exhust pipe about 8 inches long and welded in the sensor bung. I then just used some metal duct tape to attach it onto the exhaust silencer. Inital results were a little confusing. Mods: LRD adjustables Pro design cool head 20cc domes +4 timing Trail port SRP cages and Boysen 2 stage reeds Impeller upgrade K&N pod filters 320 main 27.5 pilots with 1.5 turns out Elevation is about 186 feet. At idle the bike was blowing 22:1 (yikes) And during the first run the richest A/F I got was 14:1. none of that is any good. Changed to the 340 Main and a 30 pilot. 1 turn out on the airscrew. 19:1 at idle I got a little more consistant results but 13:1 still being the richest I could get through the pull. So, the bike is running better but I am now going to modify the 02 sensor pipe to make sure that I'm not getting an inconsistant reading from air mixing with the exhaust. This is the problem with trying to make readings at the end of the pipe. I'll let you know tomorrow when I make another pull. We will see what comes of it. This could be the next great thing or a complete waste of time.

If your buying your bike new it should come with a set of jets. 200 will be in it and I think they included jets up to 240 or so. So the cost will be free to make a change.

Stock front shocks.....make offer Stock wheels and tires (few dings tires are basically new) Make offer

I'll give you $500 for a signed picture of yourself jetting a banshee.... he he. Seriously though, we all know your a scammer but don't you want to "pretend" to sell more expensive stuff to make more money? j/k he's not a scammer.

I'm taking my video camera this time so I'll take some footage for you guys.

grrrrr, I don't know about 350's I doubt he can use the main he has in it. I think people put waaaaaaaay to much fuel in their bikes. But I'm just a car guy, don't listen to me.

Hmm, you know anyone with a wideband? That looks rich as hell to me but I would want to see the A/F ratios. In my limited experience your problem would is 80% needle/pilot issues.

You can weld aluminum with a MIG welder. You need to run strait Argon though.