Tedder

Did you get this worked out?

The BR8ES is what 99% of guy's with gas motors run. If your not having an issue with fouling there's no reason to change.

Anyone offering a bushing that's not steel?

Since there's more HQ activity and new member signups lately I'd like to do what I can to help steer anyone away from the typical Facebook bs. I have all of the images that went with any of my posts but the Photobucket links were lost when I let that account go. Since I only use a laptop is there a member here willing to insert any pics that might be requested if I email them to you?

That's second wheel gear and yes it should spin freely.

Jeff and Cody are great guy's and will do you right plus there's a 12% sale going on 11/26 - 12/1 Also,,, Be sure to take advantage of the great info archived on the site.

Always new for me unless I happen to be doing an emergency fix at the track and don't have one. To answer your question. I've got much invested in my stuff to risk running without it.

Hot Rods with outer bearing upgrades for me.

What --- Oh hell no. What are you thinking?

With an electric impact you can easily buzz the nut loose just holding the inner hub by hand

I've never done it myself since I have the few tools and specialty equipment needed for a Banshee teardown but if the motor is in the chassis and the chain is on just put it in gear and hold the rear brake to lock the trans main shaft?

375hp banshee is likely nailed this one. *Usually hose is collapsed inside causing a check valve flapper situation Before changing Professions almost 35 years ago I'd gone to https://www.unoh.edu/academics/college-of-applied-technologies/ straight out of High School and brakes is one field that I was Certified in. Long story short I did several hundred brake jobs at a Shop that I was at and ran into this probably three times then later in life had it happen to my own vehicle.

Anyone have a Mindbender Motorsports tank for sale?

We have guy's running it at our track and the biggest problem around here seems to be the ethanol/gas % varies a lot when buying from the pump.

The large primary gear and outer basket assembly with the two thrush plates (thick washers) on each side will have in and out movement . The inner clutch hub doesn't move in and out once the nut is run down.

Any two stroke will generally be more responsive if you're running some rpm as opposed to grunting it out in a tall gear and low rpm like you might with a four stroke. Assuming the jetting and tune was correct I don't buy into the idea that you tore up your motor because you weren't riding at "high rpms".

Why not just go the inexpensive route and use a vacuum plug. I've used Dorman plugs from our local Advance Auto on all of my motors since 2005. If you really want a plate I don't think a plastic one would ever be a problem.

I'd say that's very good based on the mods listed. My wife ran 1/4 mile up until 2018 on a stock stroke motor so if you want to pm me we can talk specifics.

Lots of variables but a properly setup 4mil will put you there even without being a lightweight setup or rider. My wife and I are at the 5:00 mark in this.

My Yamaha manual says. Total amount: 2.5 L (2.20 Imp qt, 2.64 US qt) Reservoir Tank Capacity: 0.28 L (0.25 Imp qt, 0.30 US qt)

I still think you need to call a Shop but here's my .02 based on what we know. *If* 210# with 19cc domes is accurate (which seems a stretch) I'd say drop to 22's If it has an adjustable timing plate I'd go 4* to 5* max

Call someone that cuts domes and talk to them about your setup and what you're looking for.

Up in size to lower compression

You need to get that detonation under control or you will destroy that motor. I don't know what type of riding your doing but imo - 210# is to much compression and what I'd address first but there are other possible things that could add to your problem. To low an octane fuel, to much timing, lean jetting etc

It's usually caused by an air leak or the carbs are very lean.