Tedder

Calvin casted for specific gaskets but most Builders adjust the porting to use a .020 http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3

Stock springs will hold a surprising amount of power.

Back the bolts out past the split. Put a penny in the split and snug the bolt up again the penny to separate the hub just a bit. Remove. ^^ Yes sir but be a high roller and use a nickel

Both of our 1/4 mile asphalt bikes are setup -1 narrower and +2 Forward plus 14* positive caster. Don't know what all types of riding you'll be doing but with those specs on stock frame mounting points the geometry is very much for a straight line ride only.

Geez, I don't know why I ever bother posting to help others. What I share is first hand factual information and not heresay BS like 80% of what get's posted. And yes - Super Techniplate is hygroscopic that will rust your crank in short order under the right conditions. It doesn't take a full winter of storage. Our race season runs from the end of April through November (usually less) depending on the weather here in Northeast Ohio. We used Klotz Uplon for purging to help with the rusting problem.

Don't know where you're located but in our Ohio climate you will get rust formation on the internals with Super Techniplate if it sit's much.

Saw this build was never completed and brought it over from FB in case anyone's interested. Click on Hazzards link below for more info. Wes Hazzard Any interest??? 10mm cub build 1-6 override may part out but would like to sell complete $4000.00 The list of shit on this bike is long PM me for details Hasn’t seen the track so no numbers.. was headed in the 1/4 mile direction though no porting on cylinders either so motor with a different trans could be used for whatever probably 8 hours tops on top end everything else has never left the shop unfortunately

I'd also agree that the rules need followed.

I think most guys have a tendency to overtighten bolts or nuts so that plus aluminum parts get many into trouble. I'm into my asphalt multi-stage A LOT and have used an inch pound torque wrench on those little bolts every single time. The same inner basket has been used in my 4mil since 2008 and I've literally made hundreds of adjustments. Never once has a bolt broke or basket leg stripped. I don't see what the big deal is to follow torque specs.

Don't know if it's any help but I have a pair of silencers that I cut off of some CPI oof pipes. The center tubes are removed and the "cans" are steel.

Price lowered to $105.00 shipped in the lower 48 States *Buyer pays fees**

Upstanding long time Sponsors. I've personally met Jeff and his family. Really great people for sure.

Stands for Race Tech Components Claude. lol That's a loaded question. Wanting to buy it for my son. I'd pay new price for new ones but I won't be raped :) What condition and what are you looking to get? PM me if you want.

As it say's... Looking for a real nice RTC clutch handle

No racers here that swap out fibers like me or shatter a plate or two on occasion? I've accumulated a big stack of both fibers and steels over the years. To get the finish I like Barnett has even re-run my used steels through the vibratory process.

*BRAND NEW* - 14 clutch fibers that I purchased from Titan Racing. The same plates Tim uses in all of his builds. No steels or springs included $115.00 shipped in the lower 48 States *Buyer pays fees**

We have arm style lockups and old school OEM covers done by Direct Drive If removing the entire cover then yes the coolant needs drained but for just making changes to the arm weight or tower springs (Multi-stage) and clutch plates then no - There's an outer piece to the cover that comes off and gives access to all that. You can see it laying under both bikes in the picture.

Like father like son. We only need to tilt far enough to keep the trans oil from leaking out when the cover is opened. Coming into the pits we do shut off our Pingles to lower the fuel levels

Still sitting on these lol - Never pursued selling much but it's time to start unloading the extra's from my "collection". I had them custom made by Barnett when they converted the original Banshee Dirt Digger line to all Kevlar plates. Anyone interested? Also still have 14 cork based fibers purchased from Tim @ Titan Racing.

Brooke isn't with us anymore. She was an asset to the site but died a number of years ago (2010). She would have had a birthday coming up in August.

Got a kick out of seeing some of the long lost member's mentioned so I bumped it up for you guy's. Need to check it out some more but that way back link Meat posted is pretty cool. http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.bansheehq.com

Jeg's has some nice ones https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=Tire+pressure+guage&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

Most guys running gas use NGK BR8 series (EG or ES)

https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/181056-redline-racing-pumper-carb-mod/

No problem with coil bind and I very lightly dress the leading edge of the wire after the coil is cut.