Tedder

You'll get lots of opinions and recommendations to that question and I don't think any one "best" can be singled out. There are a bunch of different brands that will take care of business just fine as long as it's non friction modified so it doesn't mess with the wet clutch. The manual calls for a 10w 30 motor oil. Personally I've always used Belray. This comment will probably stir things up but in my opinion (and that of my tranny guy Mark @ R&D Motorsports) I wouldn't use ATF fluid.

Link doesn't work

Not a clue. Mine uses twin Dyna coils.

If it's got an aftermarket basket I'll send you some cushions for it N/C but if it's OEM with the two oddball size pucks I can't help you.

I run Wilburn ignitions on both of my asphalt Banshee's plus I own 4 or 5 extra boxes, flywheels, coils etc that I've picked up over the years but on anything other than a full blown drag setup I'd never consider anything besides OEM.

In general, Most OEM pieces are good quality but often expensive like you've heard. Back in the day I preferred factory cranks in any of my stock stroke asphalt motor builds but once I ran out of "stock" I started using Hot Rod cranks. In this case bare OEM rods wouldn't set you back much. https://www.powerpartsplus.com/oemparts/a/yam/500391a1f870021f60a0d639/crankshaft-piston

Torque

You can still get brand new OEM but they're going to run you WAY more than a nice set of used even if you have to have a bore/hone.

Be careful. Depending on the setup curve 3 itself can be too aggressive (especially in a gas motor) so that +5 on the plate is really asking for trouble imo.

Ouch, The shattered porcelain is self inflicted detonation. Been there myself once when pushing the envelope on my alcohol tuning.

Tricked is right on. Dyna curve 3 plus 5* on the plate is way to aggressive.

At one time ebay listed Chinese replacement dump tubes for Keihins but I haven't seen them in a long time. Because they get drilled out when converted to alcohol and the tubes aren't offered as an individual part for purchase you might as well pass on them.

What make carbs? Mikuni - Keihin

Still a few old timers here. I take it you've been out of the Banshee game a while? Stick around so we have someone new to pick on for a change lol

1/4 mile is what I do and I'd be glad to help if I can. I assume since you're racing at a track you're running bracket? Shoot me a pm.

My son has a ported 4mil Serval that runs great. 90% of his riding is back roads. Really fun bike.

In my opinion lockups are overrated and often not needed. For what you have I'd do a head with upgraded domes, adjustable timing plate and possibly V-4 reeds then start saving for your future build.

I like the solid non-removable tip 8 series with gas and 9 (EG)series in my alcohol motors. Here are the part numbers for standard NGK ES series plugs: Solid tip - B8ES #3683 BR8ES #3961 B9ES #7148 BR9ES #3194 Removable tip - B8ES #2411 BR8ES #5422 B9ES #2611 BR9ES #5722 * R denotes Resistor plug

Refers to solid or removable tips

I would have said that's plenty tight. My asphalt motors are all in the 50's

Serval all the way for what you do. Cubs have a narrow powerband drag port.

My old original GoPro Hero is still going strong after hundreds of passes down the track, multiple scuba dives and snorkel trips. Even has the original battery yet.

I'd contact Jerry at Chariot: https://www.ebay.com/str/chariotperformance Or TDR: http://www.bansheesuperstore.com/banshee.html

I think most will say Mattoon cushions are the most durable and their backing plate with larger screws most rugged. Until recently I'd been using the red cushions with a Hinson backing plate (from TDR) and standard screws without any issues other than the cushions do need replaced after a couple of race seasons.

Yes Keno - One of those is what I'm talking about.