Tedder

Most people don't know this but Bryan and I first met because of clutch tuning. When Chuck Wilburn originally came out with the Banshee multi-stage he put us in touch with each other and the rest as they say is history. Since then we've become very good friends and although living at opposite ends of the Country we've managed to meet up at several racetracks, visited in our homes and burned up countless cell phone batteries discussing clutch tuning lol. Even though our basics are much the same we each go about things a little differently so I thought I'd share how I've gone about primary clutch spring tuning to show that there's more than one way to "skin a cat" and give others something to think about. I've got 3 multi-stage units and multiple inner/outer baskets with most machined with slight differences. Anyone who's tuned clutches knows what a huge difference in lockup performance can be had from minor spring pressure changes. I needed an easy way of getting fast, repeatable results capable of registering very small pressure changes. This has been my simpleton way of doing things over the years. *All* of my measurements are taken at a 1" compressed height. My drill press has an adjustable stop built in (with digital readout) so that once set with my 1" gauge I can quickly check a basket full of springs.

Barnett used to make the Dirt Digger with Organic material fibers. It used a Kevlar inner and outer fiber to protect the aluminum OEM pressure plates. They worked well for us in our asphalt Banshee's but when they switched to making the DD with all Kevlar disc's we had slippage problems and it "muddied" the oil badly and very quick. I got a big order of organics custom made but it was super expensive (was charged list per plate). Bottom line - You won't go wrong with cork clutches. I've not used Drivelines but the one Jeff (FAST) sells is great.

The best porter I ever knew said it should be like a cats tongue.

Except for the reeds I still have it all.

Plug chops are only a part of the tuning regiment but I've done a ton over the years in our gas motors. It's likely more beneficial to me as an asphalt racer running WOT because it's a great indicator of the main circuit. My motors build heat throughout the run and by the 1/4 mile traps are reaching meltdown points. I don't do them near as often but for sure at the start of each season or anytime I make setup changes I'll throw one cheap ES plug in my hottest cylinder and check things.

I wrapped my oof drag pipes a couple of years ago to do some 1/4 mile testing. It's a pita to get the wrap laid down uniform and tight but it can be done. Shoot me a pm if you care to see some pictures.

This help Tyler? See deckheights post http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/107289-flywheel-lightening/?hl=boonman

I've got a brand new pair of Boss Billet bowls for PWK's still sealed in the shrink wrap package. $100.00 shipped in the lower 48 only. *You pay the fees*

Reverting back isn't something I'd be interested in but the parts are available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-ATV-MX-KEIHIN-PWK-CARBURETOR-TOWER-NEW-BDT-MOTORSPORTS-ENGINE-/391146417697?hash=item5b1224ae21:g:WJkAAOSwBLlVV75i&vxp=mtr

sheerider11 is right! The gasket is leaking. It just so happens the air is escaping from that point. Lots of cubs have holes along their intake tracts...It's the bottom of the bolt holes, below the threads.

I agree with tricked. I think you're mistaken on the bearings. I've not used the Driveline but Jeff's clutch is a great kit.

With regards to aluminum backing plates - Under hard acceleration or when dumping the clutch on launch the pucks are mashed out of shape and widen. The pressure of them pushing out on the plate makes them bulge and eventually break. Speaking on Jerry's (Chariot) behalf, I've always found him to be great to deal with and his products top notch.

I cut the PWK springs on my asphalt bikes to lighten the pressure. Worked great but don't take a full coil each time or you'll trash them real quick.

Why not use them? They'll hold more fuel than the others.

I've got a brand new pair of Boss Billet bowls still sealed in the shrink wrap package. $100.00 shipped to you. *You pay the fees*

Terrycable YAM35001TH Brand new in the package $20.00 shipped in the lower 48

Who cut the domes?

Pinpoint exactly which it is and I'll send one N/C if you cover the shipping. Send me a PM

Got it. I'll send a pm tomorrow when it's on the way. Thanks

PM me an address and I'll ship it out. You can send me a check once you have it.

$50.00 shipped in the lower 48 only

http://www.mtceng.com/index.php/faqs/18-faqs-clutch-lock-up/101-how-much-clearance-is-needed-between-the-lockup-arms-and-the-pressure-plate-buttons

I've got a pair of very similar looking plugs and have had a few not quite as bad but IMO there's no doubt the cause was a lean condition and since the other side looked rich and wet most likely there's an air leak. Unfortunately from the sound of it I suspect your "shop" will never admit blame. I'd do a leakdown test before anything else.

Is it the inner hub/pressure plate that's tight which would tie into a tranny input shaft bind of some kind or is it the basket not spinning free which would be more towards a bushing issue.

You can get thicker steels which will fatten the clutch pack (increase the stack height) and move the outer pressure plate closer to the lockup or machine down the "legs" on either the inner pressure plate or the lockup itself.