Tedder

Outstanding! Congrats to you and Justin. Wish we were there for the celebration in the King pit last night .

Yes, With the Hinson basket you're stuck with their ratio.

I don't think it's an oil issue Bryan. The multi-stage arms shouldn't back off much in XX milliseconds and the clutch plates don't need to release to make an upshift anyway. In fact you don't want the clutch to "unclamp" or you'll get that classic slip into those higher gears. A short ignition kill should be all you need to unload the gear pressure just enough for it to easily click up to the next gear. Something else is going on IMO. As you know I'm really busy but give me a quick call tomorrow.

Thanks Matt. Glad I could help.

quadgod211 contacted me earlier and has first chance at them but I won't split them up.

Still got these

If you want it - It's yours PM me whenever your ready. Thanks

Both kits for $120.00 total

That's for the pair 2 rod kits for $120.00 total

I have these 115mm Wiseco rod kits in the for sale section. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180168&hl=

(2) - Wiseco WPR178 long rod kits +5 (115mm) Original boxes aren't the greatest but the kits are still in the factory sealed packages. $120.00 shipped in the lower 48 Can supply pictures but I won't cut open the packages. Wiseco Connecting Rod Precision-trued to OEM specifications and factory assembled Connecting rods are double-forged to maintain superior dimensional consistency through improved grain flow Shot-peening eliminates residual stresses and smoothly blends the rod forging surfaces Corrosion-resistant surface treatment Top and bottom end rod bores case hardened to 58-62 RC to optimize bearing running surface Crank pin bearing radial running clearance is optimized to ensure maximum performance Precision honing ensures ultra-round bearing surface Precision-engineered oiling slots maximize rod strength and bearing life Double-drilled small ends provide the piston pin with extra lubrication and cooling, reducing distortion of top end due to thermal transfer from the piston Silver-coated bronze phosphor thrust washers with dimpled design increase oil retention and reduce friction between rod and washer interface Crank pin bearings are manufactured with the highest-quality hot-rolled steel -- case hardened to 58-62 RC Caged needle roller bearings provide the highest possible RPM Precision-machined crank webs Crankshaft comes with top-end bearing Connecting rod kits come complete with rod, crank pin, crank pin bearing, top-end bearing and thrust washers

Not specifically directed towards mx1986's build but I'd like to hear opinions of what exactly needs to stay (and how much of it) to constitute "stock" frame.

PM an email address and I'll get some shots to you after work tomorrow.

All is brand new and never been bolted on. Copies of the 12/2013 purchase invoices will be included with the sale. Black anodized Chariot stator cover with the transmission output shaft support bearing and special nut plus all hardware / gasket received when purchased. Also includes JD's engine support for the Banshee (*unplated*) Was purchased before anodizing was offered. I paid $298.50 to Jerry for the cover and $80.00 to JD for the engine support. I'll take $300.00 for it all shipped in the lower 48

Yes, Brooke is no longer with us. http://www.bchfh.com/book-of-memories/995929/Walton-Brooke/obituary.php

Steubenville Ohio - Your about 2 1/2 hours south of me. I raced three times last summer at Friendship Raceway Park (the old Steel Valley). Nice country around there. As for the tranny, You've toasted something so the cases need split. Take a good close look at it all including the contact area of the 3rd wheel gear and output shaft surface. That's an inherently weak area in a Banshee transmission and also receives poor lubrication even when you have in it lol. On the positive side... A good used tranny can be had these days for $100 - $125.00 so you can get it all for less than what a single new gear and shaft would be.

Lots of work...Very nice

I have one of those nuts. Brand new, never bolted down. PM me with an offer. I'm leaving for a weeks vacation Saturday (11/8) so if it's not sold by the time I leave I'll reply when I get back based on date/time shown on any messages received. Thanks

Anyone have or know of an outlet for a pair of NEW 39mm PWK Keihins?

Old guy like me lol... Wow - Congrats on the very nice find. Not many left out there like that.

Nice batch of ATV race video Mike - Wish we had someone filming at our track rather than just trying to sell us still pics lol. To the OP - There are multiple combo's capable of dipping into the 5's in 1/8 mile but in most cases it takes more effort and $$ than the average person is willing to spend. First key is to do a ton of research. Learn as much as you can before you start a build and be honest/use your head about how much time and money you're truly willing and able to spend. Factor it all in - ATV racing is expensive period.... Not only to build and maintain the equipment but track, travel and entry fee's come into play in also. *Don't forget your rider safety equipment* That being said let me throw this out. Over the years I've had some pretty good success and am proud of what I've accomplished given my overall weight and small motors. I talk with quite a few HQ members but rarely post technical information for a variety of reasons. In my opinion there's way to much emphasis given to "fast" numbers. We all want to go faster whether doing 7:0's or 5:90's but I promise that if your looking to be the fastest your going to be disappointed. Truth is, Those fantastic numbers you hear of or that get posted are often not repeated over and over. Usually they come from either a big motored or extremely light setup (another topic) multi-cylinder, snowmo quads or something that's having the snot sprayed out of it that won't live long. Personally I'm more way impressed with a 5.95 alcohol 4mil cub than a 5:40 sprayed 10mil DM. That brings up another thought... The really fast bikes are usually unruly things that can't come out of the hole straight and a slower consistent bike with a good rider would eat up and spit out more often than not in both bracket and heads up racing. The long winded point I'm trying to make is to build yourself a solid, safe, reliable machine that you can afford then get out there, be safe and have fun. In most cases if your willing to work at it low 6's are obtainable without going overboard with exotic builds. A really nice byproduct of the less extreme setups is they're more consistent which is what you really need at most race tracks.

The needle is the same on both a pump and no pump PWK. The seats are non-replaceable with the pumper having a smaller orifice. Like tricked said the inlets are different. Pumper style inlets point down. Not sure if it would always work but I knew of a guy who turned the inlets to point up with a crescent wrench and they didn't twist off or leak. Personally I wouldn't try to "convert" them.

Damn, To bad this was lost...It was epic Banshee HQ fodder!

There's an HQ clown now