H300F

yes but alittle bit of grinding will be needed nothing serious though and they will be 1/2" longer. do a search, i think it was erlibuc who put them on his with pics.

A little while ago I replaced my front shocks with triple rate nonadjustable pep's for +2+1 arms. I am using stock aarms with flipped wheels, giving me 45.5" wide (which I thought would be equiv. to +2 arms), and a lonestar axle giving me 48" wide. I also replaced the rear shock with a rebuilt, revalved, ebach sprung, stock shock, which was not setup for me since I bought these shocks used but the previous owner was about the same weight as me. Anyways I have a few questions about how these shocks are performing. 1. If I hit the top of a whoop with the back tires while the front tires are inbetween the whoops, should this result in the rear end bucking upwards? 2. If I don't see a rough section or whooped section ahead of me and I'm in a normal riding stance ( not leaning back and pinned) not prepared for the whoops and moving at a decent speed, should this result in the quad bouncing around and mainly the rear end rearing up and trying to toss me off? 3. When I go through a whooped section, prepared, leaning back, pinned, should the quad break up from the ground like mine is and only getting bits and pieces of traction? Sometimes through whoops I will try to jump the face of one and land the backside of the next, is this a good alternative to just balls out ripping through the whoops? How should my quad act. It seems it likes to leave the ground and get somewhat squirrly and sort of make me feel in a somewhat uncontrollable feeling. And lastly, I don't know if its my front shocks that are not working properly or the rear shock. And if its the front that are acting up, can I compensate for them by adjusting the rear since I cannot adjust the fronts. And how do I go about adjusting the rear to work for me? Thanks for any help

hahahahaha boonman thats damn funny. someone came into where i work one day with their pickup and he couldnt turn the engine off.

dont know if its like here but if you leave a truck in the woods overnight and you come back your just gonna see a rusty body from being burnt. dont know if i can go both days but hell ill get in one real good day atleast. meats is gonna be the shit i cant wait. my banshee better stay together. im gonna make sure she is ready to ride and go over everything. are we gonna eat and whatnot or just ride like raped apes?

i say we go to meats. we should setup a new post with a poll.

so are we going to have a coal fest? everyone that wants to do this write back, write when you want to do this and where im in, i say when its about 60 out i guese thats april?, and either by MEAT or hazleton would probably be the shit since i havent been to either but am used to riding coal in nanticoke. lets hear it

i ran 360s at first and was able to drop down to 340s

yo guys i want to do this. got to let me know ahead of time on the date so i can get work off and hopfully get a couple of my buds to cancel their other plans and come out. hazletons around 45mins away for me.

i ground the slide springs thinner.

what happens if you run it like this? i know mine is also like that.

hey, the stock carbs will get you by if need be. my quad definately rips with them on. i have been using mine for about 2 months for trail riding. i have pwk30s to put on but have nothing but problems getting them setup (big pain in the ass switching back to stockers to go riding then putting the 30s back on afterwards trying to tune them in then back to stockers). i cant really say how much the stockers are holding back though as i havent got the 30s working yet. i imagine quite a bit though... way i look at it, if your gonna put out the cash for the crank and porting mine as well get some carbs sooner or later, if you cant get them now atleast put them on your to do list. i have no idea about the porting issue, but i know for a fact with porting you will pick up loads more punch.

thats a damn good deal, i would jump on those if i didnt just buy carbs

hey, no it was in the Nanticoke coal strippens, where i ride too. paragon is somewhat near me though.

xc racing takes a big toll on the rider. i wouldn't focus so much on power, although it will help, but more on things to protect the quad like nerfs, bead locks, skidplates, and stuff to keep you riding longer like shocks, anti vibe stem, etc. dont forget to mix in lots of endurance on your part.

have any aarm pics? looking for stock aarms and cash? whats your zip code

You should ask LA how they set them up to run. You can run a deck plate or cut domes ("stroker domes"). I am assuming LA ported it for you to run with cut domes but they are the only ones who know so ask them.

whynot get shock covers?

73

Did you have the porting done for a regular crank and then add the 4mm later on? You need the ports matched to the stroke for it to run correctly, adding cut domes or a spacer isn't going to elliminate the need for matched ports.

if they need to be rebuilt then you got ripped because im pretty sure it costs about the price of new shocks to have done.

4mm (or any #) stroker crank increases the stroke, or how far the piston travels, therefore increasing displacement (cc's) as well as bringing in a bigger volume of intake and breathing out a bit more exhuast. a stroker crank makes a lot more torque and overall power. A longrod crank has longer rods then stock. Usually they just say longrod crank, not 4mm long rod crank, because all longrod cranks are equal in rod increasement. a longrod crank increases reliability by decreasing the rod angle on each bearing. you may also get alittle more torque but nothing to go wild about. Usually when people say 4mm or 4mil crank they mean a stroker crank, or 5mm, 10mm , 7mm etc. By saying longrod that is enough info since all longrods are created equal and people will take that as, you have a crank with the longer rods. And by saying 4mm longrod, most will take it as a 4mm stroker crank with longrods. And if I had your bike I would put on pwk30s. you can go bigger on carbs but there is certain point that an engine doesnt want anymore gas. i would say your safe to run anything from 30s to 34s depending on how you want it to run, all around good or for dragging and need everything you can get up top. hope i filled you in some

4mm crank, good porting ( i reccomend passion racing engines), bigger carbs (30s, 33s, 34s, 35s), head and domes, keep those pipes see how they run. it will fucking rock!! plenty of lowend and more then enough top. and you could reach around 90hp with that setup if done right.

are you sure you mean a stroker crank and not a longrod crank with 4mm longer rods in your signature?

blue_deuce, are those directions for setting up only the front shocks? i have pep triples with rez but they arent adjustable and a rebuilt valved rear to match. im pretty much screwed when it comes to what you just described doing right? because i cannot do a thing besides move spacers around? later

can run all day without the oil getting hot and making the shocks "fade"