H300F

I think a backfire I had melted the reeds. Thats the only thing I can think of that could. They aren't bad, but enough to get me wondering.

I can't get my banshee to run clean from 3/4 to wo. I have tried 160, 170, and 180 mains in my Keihins. Its just about the same every time, it studders and won't rev out. And when starting it will start for 2secs and then stall, after about the 4th try it starts up, sounds like it will die, and then revs up to where it idles and runs. After trying those jets it would not start, only fire for 2secs. Does a stator throw a problem like this, or is a stator either not working or working properly? How about a coil? I have a 1 year old Dyna CDI on. I am thinking about buying a coil off ebay and starting there. The stator was replaced by the previous owner, but with a used unit, and he had to splice the plugs so that says it was a 94 and down one since my quad is a 95. I am wondering if that stator bit the dust? thanks for any help, this is an on going problem and I can't get it figured out. I thought it was the jetting but I think going from 160 to 180 is enough to rule that out. Also with stock carbs a few months back my banshee ran clean as a whistle. Now with the stock carbs I was getting bad studdering on the top. So how can it possibly be my jetting if using the same once before?

I run a k&n.

Are you negotiable on the price of the intakes?

I pulled one of my vforce2 cages out today and found that some of the petals were melted in each corner on the tip very slightly. They were stuck to the cage but did break free. What causes this? Am I safe to use the petals again, they seal fine and seem to be ok. I can't figure out why my banshee won't run to full potential so I was trouble shooting and found this.

ok just what i needed thanks.

I need the distance from the front bolt mounting the lowwer aarm to frame to the bolt holding the shock to the lowwer aarm. what i want to know is if on +2+1 aarms they move the shock mount compared to where it would be on stock arms.

How much for the rear brake rotor?

first i would go over every possible way air can leak in. The head, base of cyl's, intake boots to cyl's, boots to cross over, boots to carbs, carb tops. Are you running base gaskets or silicon instead? Spacer plate? If you cant find a leak, you may want to check the float heights in the carb, and clean them out and adjust them properly. Make sure they are in sync with each other. take your time with it and spend alittle time every day for a week and im sure you will fig it out.

I broke one disk on the stock clutch years ago, and the other week 3 disks on my toomey clutch.

Do you have a rear brake rotor?

tats4life, how much are you selling them for?

Would play in the basket to gear cause this?

What causes the clutch fiber plates to shatter?

What causes the clutch fiber plates to shatter?

Dont bore it .1 over. Boring your cylinders should be left only for when you need to bore it due to out of roundness, scrapes, etc. If you want big cc's get a big bore kit which comes with new sleeves, although you would be way more happy with porting instead for the money spent.

The swingarm is 4130 right? If so, you can weld with arc, but preheating would be necessary so the weld doesn't crack when cooling. Heat especially where the crack is.

The oil gets a gray color fast. I dont remember ever having particles in my oil. Are you still on the stock clutch?

Get size 30 pilots It will help for now if you hold the choke out after its started until it starts to get warm.

Cant help you, but I have a dyna on my 95 and it works great. Sounds like your only hope lies w/ a Dyna person.

And I thought about why it worked with the stock carbs and not the Keihins. The stock carbs allow way more play in the lines, and you actually have to tighten up the cable a lot to get the free play out of it. The Keihins don't leave much slack if any in the cable. Therefore the one cable that was out of the holder, wasn't pulling the slide up enough to make a difference on the stock carbs.

Hey, I found that where the cable splits from 1 to 2, one of the cables was pulled out of the plastic holder slightly. Didnt have time to run yet but know its fixed. I never thought that amount could cause it to rev to the moon. Thanks for your help.

I emailed the seller of the carbs heres his response. "Your cable adjustment is out of whack. Check how level your cables are, and run them as low as possible out of the top of the carbs. You want just a little play in them. I had this same problem with mine, and I found that my screws that go into the top of the carbs were not only set too high, but also they were not the same height. This will also affect the way the power comes on, and they wont be completely in sync with each other. Also, make sure you use those little black boots where your cable fits into the tops from your stock carbs otherwise they could hang up on you under a lot of throttle. That could get ugly." When I have the air filter off and look at the slides move, they are fine. Tomorrow I am going to take the cable off and rerun it. And its motion pro cable. Thanks for all your help.

I did put them back in that same day and the problem did not change. And even when its cold it still has the same problem. And its not when i touch the throttle, it occurs by doing nothing but kicking it over. As soon as it starts it goes right up. My friend has my 180 jet so I will have to get them tomorrow and try again. Even with the chokes on it does it.

No, switching the shims is reffering to the spacers and c clips on the transmission gear shafts themselves, between each gear. I didnt have any problems with the shift star like you were saying.