H300F

i get all my used shit here in PA from milwaukie cycle 1-877-CYCLE-PA. 1/2 price of new, they should be able to ship you parts. or you could try eastcoastatv

i have heard on heating the dent up with a heat gun and then running ice around the dent. you can also call a dent wizard for paintless dent removal. dont know how much a dent that size would run though. they also sell those tools that glue to the dent and then you pull.

where do you live?

wow makes a lot of sense now. i was looking at it totally wrong and believing the compression in the cylinder is what caused this. what other shit is there to learn about diesels haha? is their stroke a lot bigger then bore etc?? is it easy to blow a rod or spin a bearing if overrevved like some bigblock gas engines? what i found insteresting was the amount of oil one i looked at took, 34 quarts.

just thought of something. on gas engines, air is coming into the carb, or etc, and mixing with the gas and going through the intake valves into the cyl. when you let off the gas both of these will not be there so no combustion. no power out, power coming in from driveline and powering the engine over. on diesel i read the air and fuel are separate. how does this work? either way i dont get why there would be lil to no engine braking on a diesel. as long as you are shutting down the fuel intake there is going to be no combustion and no power going out??? is this a decent why of thinking?

i know little about diesels but my friend owns a big garage for them and i have walked around plenty of times to see engines all apart 1/4, 1/2 and full together. i am pretty interested in them so im going to respond to this. if a diesel has valves for the intake, then what does it matter how much unrestricted air is behind that valve? i am on no ones side just trying to learn myself

I am running 15 41. It works but I think a higher gearing would be better. I am going see if i can get a 38 or 39 rear. Now i can start from a stop in 3rd rev and pop the clutch and spin all the way through it.

ebay has keihin 30s on in it for a good price. check them out the seller is bansheeman95. he stands behind his product 100%, i know this because i had to send a carb back.

mine has 795 pistons as well as a decking plate (spacer) and porting. mine is a longrod stroker. pistons are for the longrods, spacer and porting for the extra stroke.

those 340s might be to rich. i was running 310s with my ptr mids and open box and she ripped.

for the stroker to work properly you should atleast match the ports to the new stroke. to make it rip you should do more port work. you can run a spacer plate without doing any porting but from what i have heard it plain out sucks, you either have to much lowend or to much topend. the crank can chug along in a high gear easily or start out or pull a gear higher then normal. along with some nice porting you will have a great setup. plenty of lowend to get you off the line or through the tight trails and screaming topend. i had my cylinders setup by Jim at Passion Racing. he is the one who posted above, PassionRE. blue duece also went with Jim, along with some people with reg. crank port jobs, justintoxicated to name one. i really reccomend him, he has a lot of experience, he was working with the rz and rd bikes motors before the banshee even came out so he has tons of knowledge to provide. later

mine was running 360s. i would say anywhere from 340 to 370.

blue deuce, what do you think of pep front shocks?

hey, i ran my stroker on stock carbs for a week. it ran good, but im sure it can run alot better. i got some keihin 30mm d slide carbs. they are going on this week, will let you know what happens.

how do the blackwaters wear?

is this auto paint? spray paint? is it made for base/clear??

i think they are clones. ups didnt drop them off yet, should be here any damn minuit. should work just as good though. if you want the real thing im pretty sure they are round 400!!

mudsharks kickass but they are discontinued.

LRD says 30s are the best. I just bought pwk30s for mine, I didnt get to try them out yet.

check the parking brake to make sure its not stuck on at the caliper and at the clutch.

talk to banchetta he ran his bike with pt mids on a dyno and tried pj34s and lost 8hp, tried bored stockers and i think lost with them. he didnt try pwk28s. put the 200 or 300 towards something else like porting. then carbs

im guesing you need to go bigger on your pilots

pipes here are the makers, http://duncanracing.com/home.phtml go look around

i traded my t5s for the mids, so they cost me 250. vforces were i think 175. i bought a used coolhead with 4 domes for 100 off a friend, and traded the 4 domes for 2 new 19s. dyna prg. ign. was i think 225. k&n is around 30 or 40. i just bought the carbs off of ebay, user bansheeman95, for 208. depends if you can find used shit or not. new pipes are i think 500 or so, vforces somewhere around 175 200?, coolhead is i think 250 or 300, dyna around 200 to 300, kn 30 to 40. so thats around 1250. if you dont want to spend much, i would do the paul turner mids and head and you will get good lowend out of that.

get used to it (your riding a banshee) you dont need a new clutch till she slips. you could have an aftermarket clutch in it now, with all 6 hard springs. you can take some of them out and put in some stockers. they also sell easy pull levers, i dont have any experience with them tho.