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trickedcarbine

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Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. trickedcarbine
    Happening fast!
  2. trickedcarbine
    That's a little tight on squish. What base gasket is in there?
  3. trickedcarbine
    I've found a few gems digging up old threads and for sale ads.
  4. trickedcarbine
    Bout how it feels.
  5. trickedcarbine
    What mods do you currently have done to the motor and what fuel do you run?
  6. trickedcarbine
    You said everything was OEM, but Weisco. Weisco seals and gaskets are garbage and definitely not OEM.
  7. trickedcarbine
    Best to do a set. But I have seen multiple people do mismatched sets. Just checkk the lash and be sure.
  8. trickedcarbine
    Tfaith's build was documented fairly well.
  9. trickedcarbine
    http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/176326-true-polishing-for-true-bling-bling/Skip the sanding and start with the cakes and wheels. Maybe even skip the black emery cake. I've got an old set of nickle Shearers I made look tits.
  10. trickedcarbine
    That gets them clean, but not flat like lapping.
  11. trickedcarbine
    Motors are a gamble. Have you heard and seen it run? Will be put it in a bike to check out? At least a bike you can tell how it runs. That said, there are good motors out there, it's just rare.
  12. trickedcarbine
    When you torque everything down, do the head first so the cylinders go to the head evenly, then torque the base. So loosen it all and try it that way. If it still won't seal and you're sure the gasket is good, you may need to have the cylinders and head decked a bit to get it all flattened out.
  13. trickedcarbine
    Also, if your motor has a cool head on it, it will already have a set of domes in it. But you can do race gas domes if the crank really is welded.
  14. trickedcarbine
    You would have to have the motor partially apart to really know what's up with porting. Look in the intake, the exhaust port. The real work is in getting the transfer ports opened up. A good port job will have them opened up even if the durations aren't just for drag racing. When you port a motor the windows of the ports entering the cylinder are often moved and that's what the Super stock Pistons mimic by having different parts of the piston crown relieved where that part of the piston moves past the port window. So if indeed your motor is ported properly, the Superstock pistons would not be wise.
  15. trickedcarbine
    Shift shaft*
  16. trickedcarbine
    A Detent arm from Mull would be nice. But it sounds like you are looking for a positive feedback from the shifter and you aren't getting it. It should be a positive action, not limp feeling and usually that's solved with the right spring.
  17. trickedcarbine
    If you go the Super Stock Pistons, I'd reccomend at least having a machinist give the cylinders a once over to size them to the Pistons. If you're just buying the same size that's in the motor now, I'd at least have a machinist check clearances. Domes would be highly reccomended. In all honesty though, if it is ported, Superstock pistons are not what you want.
  18. trickedcarbine
    Haha
  19. trickedcarbine
    Aren't they casting it in unobtanium these days?
  20. trickedcarbine
    ^lol
  21. trickedcarbine
    Well, you're kind of at a cross roads. I always try to get guys to avoid just porting a top end and tossing it back on. Sure for a few hundred bucks you can have them ported and buy some domes to go with them. But what about the rest of the motor? Who knows how long it'll live. Was the stock crank welded? If not, it needs to come apart to have that done as well. Then you might as well buy all new hardware like clips and retainers etc for the rest of the bottom end. Now you're spending tons of money to do it right. With that said, it just makes sense to pony up and build your self a nice 4 mil motor if you can afford to.
  22. trickedcarbine
    You wouldn't happen to have the shift pro EZ spring and Detent roller would ya? I've found that the stock spring on the upgraded Detent arm and roller kit gives the best feel.
  23. trickedcarbine
    Putain, c'était bien gentil de toi, Claude.
  24. trickedcarbine
    You got an answer. Buy arms to work with the shocks you and be happy, or find a set of used shocks to work on your stock arms. Your answer was that you don't wanna spend money on a shitty mod. The fireball arms are not shitty, and in all reality, neither are Yfz shocks. But when the YFZ shocks are on stock banshee arms it's not a good combination. However those shocks on a set of control arms made to work with the banshee geometry and that has the proper placement of the shock, they are actually a pretty decent set up. Don't go cutting up coils or buying lowering brackets.
  25. trickedcarbine
    Vitos also had a Billit mono before their big stealth cylinders I see Pro X under ESR, but am not seeing anything listed from LA Sleeve. They did a PV and non PV mono jug from 68-72mm. I believe they were available in 4, 7, 10, 12, & 14 mil strokes. Dasa Motor for banshee was the T Rex. Rotax PV with bore from 66-72+mm. Available in multitude of strokes as well. You were correct showing that Twister at one point had an involvement in the T Rex stuff. Pretty sure he was just buying them and configuring them how he wanted them. You have a PWC motor listed. Also, there was the PSI motors. They were PV cylinders as well, although I'm pretty sure that was a re branded cheetah as well.

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