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Found 9 results

  1. Just rebuilt my topend with a driveline 392 kit and wanted opinions on how it sounds initially. Sounds a bit rich at the air screw but other than that, crispy to my ears and it seems to rev out well in neutral. Haven’t ridden it yet so load may change that. Driveline suggested a 320-340 main for my elevation and yearly temp range. They were very specific with the needle clip position so i doubt that needs to be changed. The excessive smoke when revving is just from the assembly oil. Engine mod list: Driveline 392 Assassin topend (as cast), FMF Fatty pipes w/ T5 silencers, +4 timing, VF4 reeds, Chariot billet intake, Stock carbs (320 main, 30 pilot, Stock needle at 4th clip), Uni pod filters (one stage), a Noss trixx coolhead w/ 20cc big bore domes, and Sunoco 110 race gas with klotz benol @ 32:1 videos:
  2. i need help rebuilding my banshee i think i just need to rebuild the top end but im not sure how to tell if the crank needs replacing also one exuast was smoking more than the other when it was running let me know thanks also had some old cylinders that i barely used was wondering if i could make them good again
  3. This will be my first top end/build iv'e done. The parts I got new are 21cc domes in a Chariot head, 28mm PWK, port job (getting done) by Alan Cain, Chariot intake, Chariot cages, Pro Circuit pipes, 65mm Wisecos, K&N pods, and a honda throttle. I will start building and tuning soon, and was wanting some more pointers. I am doing a leakdown test, squish band test, and compression test, is there any other precautions I should take? Lane at Driveline bored and honed my cylinders, and measured ring end gap and cylinder wall clearance. I have a good amount of money into this and can't have it fail
  4. Sorry for the noob questions, but i'm weary about installing an adjustable timing plate. People say that with the advanced timing and higher compression, there will be more stress put on my crank and other components. Is this true? Is advancing the timing worth it? Just looking for other opinions, thanks.
  5. Hello Everyone I welcome you to my horror Story, Hopefully I can get some of my questions answered and some help to steer me in the right direction. I recently bought a banshee 01, it's my first 2 stroke. At time of purchase banshee had FMF head pipes + FMF core 2 silencers, UNI filter, Stock stroke crank, 66.25 Pistons, stock cylinders, Stock carbs with air box + lid running 300 main, 25 pilots, Gas was pump premium with 32:1 mix of BenoL, at the time of purchase Compression test was not done, just a quick ride through the gears and did notice neutral was very hard to find Also noticed that when you stand the banshee upright oil would leak out from somewhere though at the time i figured it was just overflow from somewhere After couple days riding, coolant starting leaking from the head or somewhere in that general area as the coolant started to leak on the head pipes. Replaced the radiator with an over sized one, filled with 50/50 coolant, Still same issue. Next took of the cylinder head , sanded down the top of the head slightly as it was a little nicked up, replaced the head gasket. This solved the coolant leak issue. Next ride, I started to notice that oil was dripping heavy out of the silencer pipes, I pulled off the spark plugs and they were fouled with oil, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the carbs and went down to 280 main + 25 pilots still, Issue was still there so I went to local Yamaha dealer and they recommended to change the type of 2 stroke oil I use, I switched from the BenoL to amsoil dominator at new ratio of 40:1. This did not solve the problem. I also changed the transmission oil to belray and did notice that the oil was very watery and milky when it was flushed out. Next ride, I noticed that the banshee was not getting alot of power and kept bogging down, As i was attempting to get the bike out of the woods and back onto my trailer, the bike in mid 3d gear just stopped lost complete power, and smoke started coming from the head, I managed to push it to trailer and when I got home , I opened the cylinder head and saw that my pistons were now trash and so was the cylinder head . Further inspection i noticed that the crank rod was loose and there was alot of play up and down as the bearing inside the rod ( i think that's what it's called ) somehow ended up not there and now somewhere in the bottom end. I ended up stripping the bike completely down and as a newbie I broke some parts along the way including cracking the engine cases as I'm a dumb ass who didn't just buy a 40.00 case opener and followed some dumb youtuber smack the case open with a rubber mallet, I also noticed when I removed the clutch basket that it had alligator teeth as shown in the pictures, and that the Water pump plastic gear which is on the impeller was completely stuck on it that I had to drill a hole into just to remove though it was spinning I could not pull it off like the manual said ( yes I removed the cir-clip and washer) My issue is now I need some direction of how to properly rebuild this motor and with proper parts I ended up buying a used Crank from some random guy on craigslist , When i inspected the crank there was no play in the rods and just looked like seals need to be replaced and all the gears and bearings spun freely. How do i make sure this crank is ok? Can i take it anywhere to have it balanced to make sure it is spinning straight? Bought a new top and bottom case from ebay with No Chain break, had the cases bead blasted. I have included a picture of how I want the motor to look and I know it will not be cheap, I just want it done right, I'm not looking to resell it but ride it. Frame, steering stem, foot pegs, swing arm was powder coated Hot Candy Blue Bought new bushings and bearings for every part, new Mullen water pump impeller, new main water pump gear, V force 4 reeds, New uni air filter , PJ1 OIL and cleaner Since I will be boring the cylinders to their last bore ( not sure if it is last bore) 66.50, is it even worth it to do that? Or should i search for a pair of stock jugs with 64.00 bore and buy pistons for them. I will be buying a cool head, which type and dome size do I go with? , Im in NJ and sea level is 219 above, and I want to run premium gas with no race fuel What do I do with the cases if im trying to get that look in the photos? Have them polished? Painted? Pro's / Cons What do I do about the cylinder head? Keep it ? Replace it with Cool Head?? Why did my bike shit on me? What could have caused this failure? Crank? Oil? Water pump? The previous owner who didn't take care of it at all? Riding it in the cold? I don't want to put this motor back together and have same BS issues. Any help any suggestions would GREATLY be appreciated. If you made it this far thank you. http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Bansheenjx/story Please look at the photos I have taken
  6. any help would be great, please don't bash me cause I am new at this. banshee rebuilt few years ago had problems with float sticking on left side , got the carb problem fixed, now it pops when it is cold, when its warm it runs good, did a compression check, with cheap ass thing I bought, read 94lbs one side 92 the other. gimmee some input guys.
  7. alright so i will be rebuilding my banshee in January and i need tips and tricks what could help me make the process of taking the bike apart alot easier and alot more organized for myself.. i will be changing my bearings and repainting my frame and just cleaning up the whole bike to give it a fresh start
  8. I've had my 2002 banshee for about 9 months now and the suspension is in dire need of refreshing. I've already purchased some used rebuilt/revalved Elka Stage 3's for the front and I'm trying to decide what to do with the rear. I would say I'm an intermediate rider with most riding done in the dunes (I'm in SoCal). The rear isn't terrible but isn't as fresh as I would like it. I came across an opprotunity to buy a used rebuilt/revalved Elka Stage 3 (from the same guy) for $420 but that is stretching my budget. My other options I see is to stick with what I have, get my stock shock reworked somewhere, or keep looking. I was hoping to get some opinions from the Banshee community to see what you would do. If you think I should rework the stocker, any recommendations for shops that do this (particularly in SoCal)? Thanks for any input!
  9. Hey guys, Basically the story goes like this, i got this banshee a few weeks ago picked it up on the cheap and have since been working on it, im finding the bottom end on the thing to be quite weak, i have come to assume that it could probs use a top end rebuild as the compression on it aint too crash hot. What i was after was a bit more bottom end on it, currently im still running stock sprockets on it of 14/41 , i was wondering wether the top end rebuild would be enough of an increase on the bottom end or should i also drop the sprocket size down to something like 12/44 to give me alot more bottom end, as my plans where to use this as a hill climb bike? Or alternitivly if anyone has any other suggestions i can do to give me a bit more bottom end or all round power on the thing would be muchly appreciated, ill list the specs of my bike currently below. Bike: 02" yfz350p Banshee >Stock Bore >Dmf powerpipes >stock dual carbs >Stock Gearing >Unsure exactly on tire size (haven't measured yet) >Sticker kit for all dat extra speedz
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