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RoccothebeastQC

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About RoccothebeastQC

  • Birthday 05/22/1984

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Quebec, Canada
  • Interests
    Mechanics.... always mechanics!

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    Yamaha Banshee 2007 Red on Black Big Bore 380cc Toomey T5 Vforce3 shaved handle bar Wiring harness Moose case saver Oversized Radiator Tors eliminated Hinson complete clutch kit.

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  1. I NEED HELP... BRAINSTORMING.... For now she looks like this and can't wait for a rip!
  2. After 7min... it drop around 0.1PSI so better to said nothing! So NO LEAK AT ALL.
  3. Ok Guys... UPDATE!!!! Leak down test done! And now I'm sure crank seal/key are sealed! Pump it to 7.5PSI let sit for approx. 7min.
  4. thxs for answer... that's what I think... I having a lot of experience for buiding engine and I'm well equipped... so couple hours in my case... did the 450r to a friend in 1 days last month. I just need to deal with family time and doing it, kind of pissed because a paid 3400$ for this, like to "run this summer head free"... but shit happened like usual in 2 stroke world when you buy a bike... Keep you posted guys thanks _Steve_
  5. OK Guys, Thanks for all the good answer and opinion.... I'll be sure my homemade leak down tester are ok, without any leak and redo a leak down test this week end. I'll probably take picture or video and come back with you ASAP when it's done... I'll prepare a bottle of wash soap to find any leak and spray it into both vent tube when the system is charged in PSI... so if the key, seal or case internal leak... I'll see directly... If it's leaking from the key... no big deal here easy to fix, just remove the primary gear and seal the key back with yamabond? If it's a case leak, in this case I having no choice to split it? any tricks? Other question... any of you was able to fix/change de crank seal without splitting the case? Any tricks? I'm planned to redo the entire bike this winter... but I will like to finish the summer season and rip it! thanks
  6. I replace the radiator and coolant... it began to spit after.... is it possible that something goes wrong with the RAD I install, coolant? Just check the level this morning, as routine, and everything is level normal... good color e.t.c
  7. just made a other test for testing my vent! plug a bike pump to the WATER PUMP CASE VENT TUBE, shoot maybe 2-3 PSI air come out freely by the other vent without any oil or bubble. plug a bike pump to the REAR VENT TUBE, shoot maybe 2-3 PSI and Air isn't coming out freely like the other one and oil spit..... Can I just delete and plug the WATER PUMP VENT TUBE, and just go rip it with only the rear vent and see what happened? It let me think that vent goes wrong with each other. Like one goes against the other one and push the oil out when it's hot and expended.... Seriously I'm pretty sure my crank seal is ok, but for sure I will perform a other leak down test this week end for be sure.... I'm asking again, DO YOU THINK THAT THE CASE CAN BE PRESURISED BY THE BLOCK OFF PLATE BEHIND THE CASE SAVER, I REPLACE AN ORING THERE AND IT'S TOTALLY LINKED WITH THE INTERNAL TRANS CASING, IF IT LEAKS, CAN HE SUCK UP AIR AND PUSH OIL?
  8. when the problem began, it was routed like factory with the platic T link and routed like factory to the handle bar... that's why I rerouted them because I took a oil shower everytime I took the bike for a run... sometime after hard riding, just when it spit, if I unscrew the oil cap I hear pressure come out! Do you have a complete exact procedure for the leakdown test. because I performed it like the shop manual said. hold it 2 min per side.
  9. moose case saver trans oil flush carb maintenance oversized radiator new prestone new denso coil cap and plug
  10. mostly of the time it spit from the water pump case vent not the back one! normally that mean the back one is clogged or pinched... but mine is ok!
  11. slide or cable stock in some condition? it happened to me.... I polished my slide and no problem since...
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