trickedcarbine

Negative ghost rider. You are so wrong. Those 34's are just fine on that motor.

So that explains the weight difference I noticed in the jug. I almost thought it was not full so I started looking for a damaged seal but it was all good. So would the lighter SG also mean I will burn more as well? For the winter I would bump this thing up to 160 mains, but I think I'm gonna try it with the 162's to be safe

Yahtzi!

Tech section has a great write up on a proper leak down. The odds of you seeing a fine crack on the intake boots with out actually taking them apart and looking them over with a magnifying glass are slim. People come up with all sorts of ways to check with brake clean, propane, or map gas. But the only way to be sure is a leak down.

Agreed with the E series needles. Mose success stories are with an EEK needle on those

Crank is separating. Flat spot on piston is melted aluminum, and the deto marks just show what could be the culprit of all your woes. That thing made some major heat at some point

Did you use the body scanner in that Bentley to see what girls had real titties?

I have been running my motor on VP C12 but the local shops have sold it all and all I can get my hands on is C14 for tomorrow. Is there anything I should notice or do differently when tuning with it. I know the C12 is 108 and the C14 is a true 114. My bike makes 185-190 psi so it should burn the c14. Could I even get away wih a little more timing?

Rattle Can RAY! Gotcha!

Simple, he was shy on time and cash. Plus he was afraid to have some one fuck it up with out doing more research. So he just adjusted the heights and did a clean up.

Yep, blaster axle and flip the wheels offset and your hubs. Just use the big hub but to change the tires. Seen a few budget drag bikes like that

Just go to the FAST web page and go through the entire OEM parts section and get every nut, washer, beating, seal, and special bolt or tab known to man. Do every single shift mod you can find on here and cut your trans FOR SURE! Weld your crank. Beef up the clutch and get your self a lock up. Some say you don't really need it but you will be right on the edge, and it's nice to be able to run lighter springs and still have a clutch that doesn't slip. Do the Billit water pump, I'm still skeptical of the Billit gear thing though. But I guess if you got the dough. Do the idler bushing and new snap ring. Also a few months ago I started an engine assembly tips and tricks thread. Give it a read http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152239&hl=

What kind of drunk babbling shit is that?

There are many 2 cylinder 2 strokes out there that run great on 2/1 manifolds. The only reason most people think banshees can't run good on them is because the only readily available bolt on manifolds are fucking garbage. Trinity = restrictive junk. Although their concept was a good idea. The new chariot is better, but still not much better. Graydon had their Proline manifold but even that was pretty poor. If you are serious about the swap, do it with an old 440 exciter manifold. Takes a little modding but it's like a single plane manifold for your big block. It works, but it requires a 39mm carb or bigger. My buddy did one on his clean up only 4mil build and it pulls plenty friggin hard for a stock cyl 4mil that hasn't really been ported

Only dyna product I'd touch is their coils

Yep, nature of the beast.

BTW, while I was grabbing that jabroni photo from google, I noticed that the rock is now a NAZI.

Best stud puller I've used as well

Nice, we used crack the valve on a tank of nitrous on the snout of a crank to slip dampers on

When I used to work in a transmission shop I used to have to wage all out war with some studs and bolts. The absolute worst were those freaking torx head bolts that hold the bell housing on any GM 4L60/65 or 80e's. Heat them up cherry red, but before you try to spin em out give them a few whacks with a hammer. Use either a puller or even vise grips and they should come out.

Clearwater, home of the OG HOOTERS! An older buddy of mine was one of the original line cooks there in his teen years.

Don't sell carbs till you decide to port it or not. Discuss that issue on carbs with whomever you let do the grinding on them. 34's are pretty versatile carbs especially if you start modding your motor heavily.

FYI, I used to only let one local shop touch any thing on my bike. I used them for all my machining/porting/head work and even let them rebuild it once when I was out of town and needed the bike ready when I got back. They ran it on the dyno relentlessly and kept getting weird AFR's out of the right side and went ahead and gave it back to me saying it should be cool. I took it out of my driveway and noticed the intake and reed screws falling out of it. I sealed it up made sure to look at jetting and it was way lean because they weren't getting expected airflow for some reason, huh? Needless to say the damage was done already. The crank bearings let go after only an hour after I got it dialed in. Do your research and make an educated decision. It could save you time, money and headache

You may not have bad mouthed them. But maybe you should have. You seem content with knowing you need a shop to set up your bike and that's ok, granted you have a good shop. Your bike went in for a rebuild, came out barely running...... Hint hint.