trickedcarbine

Yeah, trade!

Those jets are a bit lean for the pipes you run. Definitely has something to do with its lagging feeling,I'd assume. That 35* Celsius? As far as gaskets, find a good set from Cometic, and any of our site sponsors should be able to get you a full set of seals. Just do them all and have peace of mind.

Looks like someone has done some decent work on those cylinders as well. Any idea who?

2 PAC......... 4 beers short of a 6 pack.

It's not worth even thinking about the rd motor in comparison.

Lots of stuff for the Moto cross guys on dirt bikes, never seen any thing good for the banshee yet. The porting is just so diverse and it makes it pretty hard. I think the forum will get you closer then any chart out there

Your hypothesis is actually pretty close so it should be a good start. As far as the CEG needles, start them in the middle clip and go from there. I like to get the pilot dialed, then the main. After that it's just getting the transition between the two set with needle adjustment.

Teuchè my good man. You have a fine career in the "how to use the search" field.

Sudco

Found this doing some digging. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DFS7-1.pdf

I was about to make a post on this. Not sure if I should pick up one with programmable option or not.

That is just a hole some one drilled and tapped for a barb fitting . That fitting is where you connect the pulse line for a fuel pump

No more long posts. Just keep these videos flowing and you're more then welcome to hang out.

Seems like you already understand the car the carachteristics of those carbs. The base lines you have been given should suffice. Start it up and keep checking the plugs.

He should be glad that Athena kit burned down. They are junk.

Not that they suck, but they weren't designed for a motor with anything more then a free flowing filter...

Yes.Some guys will tell me I'm nuts for this, but running these motors at 10,500 for long periods will definitely start to destroy rings and even scuff the nickasil stuff. That means long duration high RPM stock or any iron bore for that matter wouldn't stand a chance. Once the Pikes Peak guys started messing with the CP stuff and actually carried those kind of RPM's they would start getting scuffed and chafed nickasil after only a few hill races.

This ^I have also been running that Be Cool stuff the last few years because it performs almost as good as the engine ice for a near Prestone price.

Problem is that when two strokes are made to rev higher, they are real weak down low. So if you wanna be able to run a high reving motor Jesus remember the consequences.... Less bottom end performance, more wear on parts. What kind of riding? And what is the current set up? It might be better to kinda find a nice medium.

Sure, wheels in yo' shoes DAWG!

Sorry, I've seen your manifold on a bike hit the dyno and then the guy tried the exciter manifold. Needless to say, yes it performed better then yours. I love your products but I have to admit that the idea of a Billit low profile 2/1 is just not so hot. Not a fan of the harsh angles. I run several chariot parts and always will. But I don't think I'll reccomend that intake to any one knowing there are better choices.

Stage 4 huh?

Fast FZR style clutch, or Driveline FZR style clutch. Both top notch products. I run the driveline stuff because they are local.

What kinda torque?

Any way you guys can get some sort of hand built inframes done to make up the difference, or is it totally redundant? Andy at Grand River is a whiz with that shit. But I can see why you guys are hesitant to venture off from what you have because it still works so well