trickedcarbine

Pull the head and look at the numbers etched in the edge. Some are done by a machine, and some are hand etched. If it's hand etched it'll probably be a 3 part number. EEK needle is the typical go to needle for the 2/1 carb set ups. Over the years it has proven to fix the mid range stutter/hick up that is associated with 2/1 carb set ups on banshees. That is a Keihin needle though. So make sure you get a keihin carb and the info to sort it out will be out there as there has been numerous fella's sorting them out over the years.

I always dig that blaster you did. Pretty slick set up.

Titties^

That's Tits! Glad to see you're still getting to tinker Brandon.

Could be a multitude of things. Milled stock head or cool head? What fuel? Was the excessive smoke white and sweet smelling?

Always gonna change based on how much power you make and what size the track is. Whats your budget on set up? There's a lot of variables.

You will need to at least do a dual pingel petcock and it would be wise to gut the gas cap vent.

So many variables. If anything looks questionable, just use a light film of three bond and make sure surfaces are as clean as possible.

White & Black. Sure wish they would do that Kawasaki Green again.

Lol

Motion Pro

When are you gonna machine me a mega Billit bowl for both carbs with a diaphragm housing built in to it?

N down if you actually race. If you play it's nice to have first there incase you accidentally stomp on it beyond first. I like mine because it prevents a missed gear on the hole shot and I never really shift below 3rd. But my old play motors always had stock pattern and I definitely prefer it in the trails.

Pj1 high temp paint. Closest to the factory black finish as it gets.

Six OEM or possibly the Barnett pack with 3 HD and 3 OE.

35mm PWK

That is an awesome bike! Next time you get in to the motor, take a pass on Duncan and really wake that thing up. Looks killer and good luck with that swing arm.

Safe to assume you're talking about a PWK carb? If so, leave the idle screw all the way in and try bottoming out the air fuel screw and then try backing it out 2 1/2 - 3 turns. Make a note of each result. Odds are that it may respond better to the air screw being out which will indicate that it wants a smaller pilot jet.

is it revving up high or just keeps falling on its face?

Grab your self a Clymers Manual. The items to check will be worn shift shaft, out of adjustment eccentric screw, and verify they are all adjusted properly.

Quality shocks and A arms. Steering dampener. Anti vibe handle bar clamps or Flexx bars.

?

Totally fine.

It's hit or miss I suppose. IMO, it's just another case of a shop getting to big with out having the right amount of competent man power to keep up and continue the same quality.