trickedcarbine

10k 421 cub, 38's, OOF pipes, lightened stock frame with light sub frame, light A arms, longer swinger, American racer rears, scooter fronts, blaster axle. Then as time goes on you can get better stuff like spindle mounts, crazy arched swinger, Marvin shaws (unless you go rigid), light weight drag axle, etc.

They are awesome on drag bikes with longer swing arms. Not quite so awesome on stock/shortened swing arms. I spent two seasons trying different things with it to get it to hook up and in the end the stocker on a cheap Billit lowering link destroys it. There is another option..... Try running 18" tires and a link from the Warrior. That gets ya pretty low yet still cushy.

-Make sure the pilot and air screw aren't way lean -Check that slides are moving freely -Lube/Adjust/Inspect throttle cable -Leak Down (look for air leaks)

If you don't have the PJ's yet, don't buy em. Save a few more bucks and grab the PWK's. The idle on a PJ is easy. 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 turns out and they are good. People just need to mark them with paint pen so they can tell where they are at as far as adjustment. The PWK adjusts with a screw on the side of the carb wich is a cunt, but a 90 degree flat head of some fashion gets the job done. Waiting on some one to make an idle screw with the Knob for the bigger PWK's that are readily available. The Slide/needle combo are way easier on the PJ as well needing only a 1/4 turn on the spring lock to access the needle. PWK needle adjustments require you to actually unscrew the lock and remove the goofy plastic spacer. Work in the bowl area is about the same as far as access and location of jets, but this is where the PJ gets sloppy. The float pin set up IMO always seems to just flop apart wich then drops the small pin, needle &seat, and float. There is also the plastic baffle that clips in to that needs removal for some work. I mean, the PJ seems to come apart way faster then the PWK in general. So it sounds like it's a better set up? Definitely not! I swear that the reason they are so easy to work on is because they are always needing attention if you ride regardless of weather and temp changes. The air screw is always wrong from one weekend to the next, the needle is more sensitive then your bi polar ex girl friend, and the main needs changing what seems like every 10 degrees. The PWK really is a dial it in one time kinda deal though. So it makes up for the extra minute or two when making changes. It's slide design seems far superior to and it shows in performance. The 35 PWK IMO can be just as responsive as the smaller 34 PJ. Plus it always feels so much more crisp through the mid and in to the top. It is far less finicky in the humidity as well.

^true

This is usually what alcoholics call a "moment of clarity".

Pointless it is.

Everything else stock? If not which mods?

Have you ran rockets? Not the R2, actual rockets? I must say, it's rediculous that guys claim it as an inframe drag pipe. In my opinion they have just as much bottom as any t5/fatty type pipe. They come on quite hard but they definitely stop reving out before the shearer or CPI stuff. If someone is looking for a worth while power increase, it's not gonna be found jumping from Moto pipe to Moto pipe. Hate to admit it but if the op definitely wants to stay with the "all around" type pipes, the best pipes would be the trinity inframes. (I know, fucking trinity?) Or possibly those DMC's that RRL is referring to. Both are pretty expensive, that's why I say if you're wanting a real increase, you may be better off tweaking the whole set up. If you think you'll lose all bottom give it some timing and a bit of compression.

The switch from pro circuits to T5's would net you a touch more mid-top, maybe. Depends on overall set up. Probably not even worth the switch. I would try the CPI or maybe a Rocket pipe.

^ 7mm? No, just No........

That was exactley what I thought when I saw it!

I have that girdle head and had to buy a new head due to the fact that when I asked for new domes about 8 months ago he said they no longer made that head and also no longer have/produce the domes for it. But was told they were making a new design like their RZ head and I was welcome to purchase that when it was in production. No doubt it's a bad ass head, and if Rodger is making domes for it again, it's totally worth the original asking price.

Some on top. How is it that if you are a Qualified machinist you have numbers and parts in hand but can't do the measuring to figure out the top? That is where the natural talent you spoke of comes to play. Me, only having minimal machine experience would a take measurements of the cases, and crank to figure it out. You keep stating that you have numbers and the right tools and know how, but here you are asking what to machine? It just doesn't make sense that you wouldn't know how if you were really capable. I'm a firm believer in that if you don't know, you shouldn't touch.

Yes on top

What was squish when you took it apart?

If a 4 mm crank drops in and clears. So that means 2 mm of the stroke is not in to the case material so you still have another 3mm to go in the cases for the 10 mm. Better make it 4mm just to be sure there's no rubbing. First make a guide, say you go out and back over a dead squirrel's head. Should squish to about 4mm with the right vehichle. Now put a little blue tape in the case around your work area. Maybe some on the sealing surfaces. Ya know what, fuck the blue tape all together. It just costs more money. Just use the clear scotch from the junk drawer or the left over duct tape. You can just use the grinder to take off any residue anyway. Now, load a grinding disc on the makita. Make sure to stand at the back of the case. Slowly plunge the grinder in to the case at the trench area. Once the disc is uniformly about to punch through the bottom of the case begin sliding it sideways. Once your material is removed, remember to lay the dead squirrel in there to gauge the trench. If it's not deep enough, just use a razor blade to remove minute amounts of material. If it's way to deep or goes through the case, fuck it! It's not like you're trying to do it right any way. Now repeat the same hillbilly process on the top half.

No, they're not. I have. I'm just buying a new head. I have however found two machinists who can make dome blanks for these heads though.

how much weight and what grooves are you using?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-balls/=qzfrws

Those are on +2 arms

+4

Probably CPI

Ya, but yo wifey do! Das why you marry a trick. Make dem do yo shit.

With the 4 mil guys used to run a spacer plate and do less port work. Now with the modern school o thought guys will leave the cylinder closer to the case deck on just a single gasket and adjust ports from there. It allows a builder to get a bit more usable power keeping the ports down lower in relation to the crank plus it's more reliable with less gaskets to keep sealed. Now on to the head. You obviously need to address the problem with the piston now poking out of the cylinder. You don't correct that by "milling" the head. You "Rechamber" the head instead. Some cases you would do both. Even if the head is milled( raises compression) you can still Rechamber the dome areas for better dome profiles and adjust the compression ratio as desired.