trickedcarbine

It requires a bit of work modifying the frame. Just leave the bike J arm and get bad ass J arms from some of the chassis guys here. If A arm are that important, just find a cheap frame somewhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

You mean a arms on a J arm chassis?

That'll work. Legal sucks, but it's better then being kicked out of the trails or dunes.

392, those Athena cylinders? That motor isn't the best but it will however need to eat quite a bit of fuel to perform at it's potential and not melt down. As stated, 27.5 pilot, needle second clip from the bottom, 300-320 main. Timing is done on the stator plate. It is behind the flywheel. Check to see if you have an adjustable plate. You can hoopty mod the stocker or buy a nice Billit unit from about $50 bucks to $75. Mattoon and chariot seem to have the nicest ones for the money. Porting, certainly worth it if you have someone reputable do it. NOT your local dealer or repair shop. Typically it goes from 250-500 depending on who is doing and how much they are doing. I've seen the Athena's getting done for $325-350 quite steadily.

Been working on that with these fellas Guy didn't look very Hispanic, so I'm not sure why he is the el presidente. Ultimately the best hoods I've seen to date were the carbon fiber from fast fibers. I'd murder third world children by the dozens if I could get a carbon fiber hood that has the pointed rib down the center o the radiator like the HS customs hoods. Those new $200 fiberglass hoods aren't so bad. But they are rough at the start. So they aren't really for Joe Schmo with a rattle can. I just hope nobody goes and gets in a fucking hurry to junk their molds for all the stuff that is discontinued. I'm sure there is someone out there who would love to buy the full bore/lakers molds and start churning them out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

That is like catching a photo of a retarted child on the roller coasters at cedar point. What posture you have my good sir!

How bout a trinity style spark plug lock with a pocket for extra o rings?

^ Delrin Gangster.

< loves carnage Hope you get it sorted out.

Yeah

Try looking at the pick up gap and nubs on the flywheel. Check the gap on both nubs.

So many folks always think it's nonsense to start parts swapping over a full technical diagnosis. Really, just swapping your stuff for known good working parts is the fastest way to rule out the stator, CDI, coil. The rest of the stuff becomes a rat race. Trouble shooting list Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically) Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators) Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even) Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased New spark plugs Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in New plug boots Ohmed and tried several known coils Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted Disconnected the tether switch Test kill switch Swap coil Swap CDI Swap stator At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Huh^ well alrighty.

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Just let my deaf friend ride my banshee on Saturday. Never rode a banshee before yet he got every gear perfect with no tach

19cc domes will give that bike a substantial jump in compression. Probably more then your bike can handle with out a switch to higher octane. Especially with you running some timing. Your crank might not like the extra compression with out at least a true and weld. That Rickey stator plate is junk. They are known to crack at the threaded part where he stator is bolted to the plate. If you are dead set on running it, keep a close eye on it. Torque it carefully and use LOCTITE(blue) Good luck with that thing. My banshee kept me out of lots of trouble once I came home as well. All my friends were partying, I was in the garage out of. The bull shit. Perfect.

No RTV on the key way? Clutch side seal? head gasket/o ring?

^ wasn't PPS doing shift fork windows on stock cases? Might make your life better since you're definitely tearing that thing down.

Clean them in a hot tank, solevent tank, dishwasher..... Something. Then polish them http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176326&page=1 . Once they're polished clean them again. That shit is messy. Then re buff by hand after assembly.

Legit idea....

When I'm not huffing race gas, I'm inhaling gold spray paint fumes.

Have those been purged on?

As I stated in a related thread. You should assume there is a jetting change with any fuel change. If you're afraid to spend more time jetting, you probably shouldn't be running alky.

You should be jetting specific to each/any type of fuel regardless.

Th^s