That pilot is WAY WAY lean for that set up! Try the 27.5 pilots, maybe even a 30 as the motor is a big bore. Put the needle on the second from the bottom clip, and maybe work your main down a size or two. Your main definitely sounds close and you said it's giving the plugs a good color, so try a size down and see what happens
Those are quite nice! Wish I bought those for the 4mm I just did for my buddy. The builder wanted individuals but he already bought the chariot. We epoxied the cross over section and re bored the angle inside the manifold.
What width are these for then? + 3? Yours appears to just be +2 in the photo. I'll take these if they will work on a regular + 2 front end though. If not, who made them? I'd love to run these on the ice. Need to get weight down on my chassis bad!
I am up for a sprocket guard, round house rotor guard, and a grille. I also need a custom set of rotors for my 450 calipers....... So c'mon guys with 450 brake swap.....
Glad you touched on the bore size effect and pumping loss. Lots of fellas not thinking about either. The pumping loss is a real problem on the banshee as it's a twin so with a bad set up you can really get to the point where the cylinders are almost fighting each other.
Really? I am curious as to how you are able to get so much timing in your motors. Not trying to talk shit, but didn't you mention as much 15* timing? That's kinda gnarly on almost any motor isn't it? Isn't it safe to assume that if a motor needs that much advance to burn at it's most efficient point, it would have some set up issues? Also, how can you get a motor to still pull RPM like that? Or are you referring to motors that are running minimal compression on race gas with lots of timing? I've just never had much luck myself on these motors with much more then 7 degrees while still having a bit of compression.
Choke tube in, slides correct, bowls on the correct side, air screw isn't over adjusted, choke plunger isn't gross, all ports blown out with air, spark is bright blue and consistant?
Uni or any dual stage foam will filter more then any gauze type filter and outerwear. < fact. However, the uni does clog up faster, which in my opinion is due to the fact that it catches more dirt with a much finer filter. When I ran uni's they literally got cleaned every ride. If you aren't in heavy dust the Gauze type filter is the better option.
Castor is great stuff, BUT it doesn't need to be any richer then 32:1. Contrary to what's been said, to much oil is not a better thing all the time. To much oil will over heat as well.
Also, no castor on PV motors. Just sticks them up.
A few guys mess with it. But in all actuality, just run ALKY or RACE GAS. The in between e85 only provides a fraction of a difference over race gas yet all the additional work you need to do on alky. Yet won't make the same power as regular alcohal. You just looking for the convenience of E85?
On race gas, if the domes are not GAY, and you don't have stupid compression......... I'd say 5-7 will be ok. Keep checking the plugs. Especially on the trinity motor. Leontief be surprised I that motor has a hard time with even +4 degrees.
Have you checked the claw on the shift shaft for excessive play, made sure the eccentric is adjusted properly, shift detent arm is ok, shift forks and rods not chewed and bent?