trickedcarbine

^ interested in selling back yard boogie plastics?

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^ that Also, not quite a best brant thing. More, what material.

Bummer, no more pix.

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That would mean the crank case is not sealed up. Did you do the leak down with the clutch cover off? I'd imagine it's coming from the pto side crank seal and pressurizing the trans case. If it's not the seal it's the sealant used to sandwich the cases.

^ really...... 5,500?

You will need to drill and tap the intake on one of the cylinders. Insert a barb fitting and plumb a hose to the pulse fitting of the pump. Plumb the inlet of side to the petcock. Plumb the outlet to the carbs. You will also need to make sure your carbs have the needle and seat for pump set up as well.

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Could definitely be parking break or any other safety electrical junk

If it runs better with the air screw out then it should mean it's a bit fat. Granted everything else is working correctly. Could be other issues as well. Check for air leaks, ignition issues, and carb choke issues.

Pros spend mucho dinero on light weight hardware as well

Programing the Dyna... Now that's where problems start. Any one I've met with an Un tampered dyna that just uses their factory curves has had zero trouble with them. But once people start trying to get curves to upload that's where the trouble is. Sometimes it won't take the new file and goes in to jack off mode. From there it's a cluster fuck.

Yellow thread tape. The Teflon tape guys use on gas pipes/hoses.

Did Corey try to get you to pony up for a pair originally?

Paperwork is nice, but there is no way it is super important as long as you can verify a positive history on the bikes origins. IE, not stolen. Get a bill of sale with description. My bike has had a few different cases and I've even swapped frames over the years so there's no friggin way numbers will match. However I've for titles for any frame I've had. On the motor, look at compression, ease of start, plug condition(rich/lean, detonation, etc) , pull the dip stick to see if the bottom end is taken care of, maybe drop the carb bowls, check coolant level. Chassis, listen for squeaks and creaks, any loose wobbly stuff, wonky bearings, etc. Things should be moderately clean and wiring should be tidy.

Yahtzee!

^ reeds. Could be worth checking. Tug the carbs out and take a look. May wanna shine a flash light through the exhaust with the piston rotated in a way so that it lets light through to the reeds. This would help you see if there is a retarted gap at the petal tip to cage area. Post a list of all the stuff you have tried so We don't badger you with the same stuff over and over.

Cascade's clamps have that same high temp hose inside them that every one sells. However, they have machined their brackets to put optimum clamping pressure on the ex chamber/stinger section per specific pipes needs. Pretty sweet

Yeah, but remember.... The location of the windows makes 7 more HP. So it is gonna rev faster then even the unobtanium pistons any way.....

Also,the banshee has a junk pivot point. Would love to see it improved upon as well

Outlaws and eliminator chassis are sweet. But for the cost, I'd rather make the updates and slimmer seat section. You folks saw what Jordan is doing the look alike chassis for right? This is totally doable, but I think it'll be about 4,500 not 2/3k

At this point, I'm gonna say check all the tors type stuff that cuts the rev off. Tors, parking break, carb slides, etc.

That last photo really helps a lot.