trickedcarbine

And so with that...... Another tale is told at HQ and it has ended with an abrupt thump to the chest.

Well, that's sort of the point of the thread right?

Just find a kit with quality seals, gaskets, and forged pistons. As long as the tolerances are done right on the machinists end, just about any forged piston will live for a good while.

Sorta close. Ditch all the old o rings, the driveline and fast unit don't require you to index the plates either. Just make sure to check the old basket and hub for grooving/wear.

Those things sucked to kick

Something in there is definitely not adjusted right. Sure the pressure plate is indexed and seated? Adjuster behind basket is ok, cable ends are all seated?

A pancake bearing, make sure the inner hub and basket aren't all Womped out. If you see chatter texture chuck it. You said it's got some use....

The single arm tends to be less parts, but that means if any thing does fail, there's no upper arm to keep things sort of sane. I've seen quite a few Tyson and wheelman chassis that were fast and tracked well. Still a handful to pilot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

That frame has been a whore. Pretty sure I've seen it it two other fellas hands. Talk to Brad when you purchase the kit. Install it per his instructions to a T. Do not fuck around. Single arm frames can get sketchy.

My friggin phone auto corrected Beefier to Beef die......

The biggest OEM friction was the street bike FZR based stuff. Might have to research which year. If you MUST have OEM that's your best bet. But really the driveline stuff was built to be beef die then just about anything available. Their steels are way different then OEM but provide the amount of surface area that you need for bigger frictions.

^ nice find.

That's pretty cool of them to send the extra parts from lectron. Problem is ATP doesn't even know what they're sending and it's making an initial set up a real pain in the cunt.

Driveline

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Huge list I've made on my phone, and peen pasting everywhere. Trouble shooting list Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically) Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators) Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even) Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased New spark plugs Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in New plug boots Ohmed and tried several known coils Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted Disconnected the tether switch Test kill switch Swap coil Swap CDI Swap stator At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Hey, before you go...... Any one here tell you that yer kinna purdy?

ETR is meat flounder. He's alright. Still a pup.

Are they the Ching Chong knockoffs that hit last year?

No reason to nay say EFI. If it costs to much for you, then friggoff. Cost is the only down side. So get another job or tell your wife that if she really loved you, she'd start hooking for banshee parts. The benefits are insurmountable! Trail guys who are just plain fucking clueless. Buy the kit. Pay a shop that has a dyno and knowledge of EFI to set it up and just ride the hell out of it. Guys who venture in to boost..... Fellas like me who ice race. Shit the temp drops almost 20-30 degrees at 4-5 o'clock once the sun goes down. People who ride different dunes all the time, meaning different jetting due to elevation, some times temp. The list just goes. Once you have a bike that is pretty heavily modified, you are tuning a little bit every time there is a change in elevation, temp, bar. Pressure, season, weather, etc. So if you just data log and tune for target ratio, you can save different curves for all those different conditions. The first season would be total work investment, but after that just pull up to Milan. Load last years tune. Check weather and compensate for differences and done. The guy next to you just now got the tool box out.

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Yep, that's a decent shee. It could certainly use a bumper that isn't made by Chester the molester though.

Carbs are pretty good for that motor. Gonna be hard pressed to get much bottom out of that thing regardless. What's the overall set up? If the motor is set up ok, you may be able to work with gearing and tires. Maybe some clutch would help.

Keep a good pre mix in it and it can make it the rest of the season if there's no real issues and the ring gorrves on the piston aren't Womped out.

Drive Line and FAST have you covered on the clutch. Both already Have stoutest kits out. Already beefed up components adapted from much larger street bike motors. The steels are larger and take heat much better as well.