trickedcarbine

They look like propeg.com stuff. I dig them. Much needed on ice.

Didn't waste any time. Practice swapping the motor with those mounts. If they're not just right, it will be a pain in the butt to pull and install a motor.

Noss machine or driveline. But you need to know how to verify measurements before you ruin something.

I'd definitely Tig that. Put a junk shaft in it. Squeeze it. Burn as much of it in as you can with out getting in to the shaft. Pull the shaft, burn it in in side. Ream it back to size. Done.

Just keep watching internet auctions.

Winner^

A bit yes. That's a big base, but if everything is where it should be and you have good squish, run it. For the record you checked those numbers?

.020 is pretty basic. Give or take a few thou.

Call Dave at Noss Machine. Know your deck height. Quick google search will show ya a few ways to get it real quick. You can't just use shelf domes unless the jugs are on a spacer plate. Even then, a set of domes from a plethora of reputable guys will/should out perform regular pro design domes.

Lots of builders in the sponsor section on the homepage who have done builds with CPI's. You can also peek in the dyno section for some actual data on what can/has been done.

As the motor was ported that will in a sense lower the compression if there was any exhaust work. Reason being, by raising/widening the exhaust more volume is able to escape. 160lbs is actually pretty sweet. It is enough compression to take advantage of race fuel without being to harsh on engine internals. Do you know what the squish is like with the base gasket change? That can also lower compression.

AMA wrapped up and some folks are coming out for an open ride tomorrow. Granted it's not to wet.

Try some paddles in the snow. It makes it FUN!

That jetting should be a tad richer IMO. However, a dead cylinder is another issue. Thoroughly check over carbs, and start checking simple electrical stuff. Roached plugs, plug caps, pick up gap, coil ground is clean, wire harness condition, etc.

Wire wheel the pivot bolts clean and coat with grease. As far as the ball joints, are you talking factory a arms?

Just install it in the pressure plate as the OEM one was. Adjust it and lock it down.

Plugs look like they're just washing right off in the first pic. They're wet when you pull them? If so, move back to a 290 & 280.

All the engine dynos I've personally seen, (only about 4-5) are all tucked in to corners collecting dust. In turn, those are all people who have chassis dynos and they choose to flog those instead. Personally, if a bike comes in just needing a few tweaks, you have to take it all apart and assemble it on the stand, test, then out it all back together in the frame. Just not interested in paying less to work more.

No

Pilot is huge! Needle needs to be checked. And I'd think you're ball park on the main. What do the plugs look like?

Doc fang out there?

^ take that Match.com!

That red/orange and black rail at the end is SICK. Lots of cool videos of it Rollin' Coal up some ski slopes on paddles.

Think of to many balls like to much compression.

After midrange, as in Top end is weak?