trickedcarbine

Not really sure that is a valid assumption. Yeah the O ring is moved over further, however the bore is expanded with it as well.

Pic of dome? Lots of big bore stuff has just a lip on the inner side of the o ring.

How far behind? Or how booked ahead....?

The longer rod is supposed to be a little less angle on the rod as it articulates around on the crank. That means less stress on the rod, piston, and bore. The 115 rod does require different Pistons though.

Depends on the prep. Seen some spot rus lightly underneath, and I've seen some look tits for a few seasons. Hit up Brian Stimbert at Quality Powdercoating on Facebook and ask some questions.

No response.... Guess we are all a bunch of credent know it alls. Some folks just don't like being told to start with the basics.

That thing was way lean when it let go. Did you just do the top end of bottom end as well? With the mods listed, I would say toss a 30 pilot, needle second from the bottom clip, and a 300ish main. Those Pistons simulate porting to a degree so it will certainly eat a bit more with them.

Yes the A1 in his signature is about steak sauce. Kind of a running joke here. It pops up in the live thread a lot. Also, you mentioned it seems to just go through the years to quick and then it's done. Making that front sprocket 13tooth is only gonna make the gears shorter. 14/41 is stock, I'd say with your available power I would just drop the rear a tooth or two to spread the gears some.

To be clear we are referring to the bike you said has Paul Turner exhaust, pod filters, and V force reeds correct? If it is making 180 pounds of compression when kicking, there has been some sort of head work. It's doubtful that it's actually been Rechambered, but it has definitely been milled if it is indeed a stock appearing head from the out side. Jets in that bike should definitely be around 27.5 pilot, 280-290 main, and find OEM needles to fine tune. Compression can easily be fixed in your situation but will require another head. Find a good used one that's been untouched and install it with a new gasket. Or, find a nice cool head and inquire about having quality domes custom made for your needs. Something in the 21-22cc domes should put you where you wanna be to run the available fuel. On another note: Shorter more direct posts get quicker responses with more valid info as people don't have to cherry pick which part to respond to. It'll only draw folks out to ruffle feathers and in the end it'll be you accusing people of being idiots and not being able to read, and no one posting any helpful info. There is tons of knowledge here, just need to find a way to ask the right question without adding inneeded details.

Ok.....

Did you check what compression was before the tear down? Can you see a good cross hatch in the cylinder? Also, check the piston skirt area vs the top of the piston. There will be some taper, but figure out what pistons are in there and what the alowable collapse is. If all is well, definitely toss new rings in there at a minimum.

Interesting.... You don't think tripling the power would have any affect? Also, is anybody hard anodizing them?

Regardless of what it makes it won't hook up so a few ponies either way ain't hurting. I think that's what he means...

No offense, but you are still guessing. Still running a pretty stock motor. Still figuring out what will or won't work..... The Tabby Cat is miles ahead of you on all of that. Just because your machine is automated and his is manual, means nothing if you know nothing. Again, not trying to be rude, but instead of snarky comments, maybe you should be asking questions. You are always talking about how everyone here thinks they know everything and could use a good humbling. Well, look in the mirror for a change.

No! She wears way to much makeup.... Take her out back and shoot her in the head while you rape her one last time.

No friggin Way an aluminum drum doesn't end up in catastrophe.

If you specifically said +3+1, you got what you asked for. You should of asked for the Long Travel +3+1 shocks. Hopefully they are willing to help ya out, but they did send what you wanted. LT shocks are a totally different animal.

Almost looks like coolant in the photo

My fireball stuff only came with tie rods, no ends. That was as advertised/qouted.

Are you torquing the cylinders then trying to install the head? If so, it's usually easier and better to leave the jugs loose and step torque the head to the cylinders in OEM sequence, then torque the cylinders after. It's a simple change in procedure that can make life much easier.

The shearer Big Bores are gonna generally be for motors 500cc and up. It's 100% doubtful your 4mm would be a motor to run them on. The regular small bores would be the ticket if you decided upon Shearers. However as you said Woods riding, I'd say the ol' FMF's and Pro Circuits are decent and cheap, finding a good clean used set can be difficult as most of them are clapped out or rattle can painted at this point. There are better pipes for the woods though. I'd look at SLP's, if you got the coin. If not a used set of Trinity In frames or the DMC's would be nice.

Jfc...

OEM is best, but Racetech is a decent option.

Many other fellas who will get your bike running far better.

Do it.....