odaen

happy late b-day, Mantooth!

I've done it before, not really that big of a deal, really. pull your tank and front plastics off...piece of cake.

always wondered where D&M were from. have heard them mentioned quite a bit on PS

I think the longer rod is the better way to go. Dan @ patriot racing can sell you one for sure. The cylinders as well...

^^has a beauty of a shee edit...damnit, travis, you snuck in before me

get some 30pwk's (28 bored to 30) for your current motor..... when you put your cub together, sell them (take the $100 loss) and buy some bigger carbs

I think Ohton Racing is in Arizona somewhere Packard Enterprises is in Utah K&T are somewhere down there too, I think Go to a local builder, preferably one with a dyno. Most builders have quite a few sets of pipes in house, so you can try them out. If they build your motor for you, odds are good that they'll give you a break on dyno time, cause it can get spendy at $50 to $150 an hour.

i couldn't imagine them not performing good with porting... at some point though, other pipes will probably shine more with the same port work.

Cubs really like large carbs. I ran 39PWK's on my 4mm and actually picked up 3HP switching from 36PWK's. I'd say to stick with your stock carbs for now and buy some larger ones when you get your cub.

damn, I need to read the posts better my bike was at sea level with the lid, snorkel, and stock filter.......240 was just right on the main for me.

Gary Allan - It Would be You Google is a magical magical thingie

almost any builder offers them. some send them out to get done, others do them inhouse....just depends. I've taken a cover to Redline and picked it up the next day since he does them himself. His link is in my sig. There are 2 styles that I've seen. Direct-Drive and Mattoon. their websites are http://www.directdrivecnc.net http://www.mattoonmachine.com

Depends what kind of air filter he's got on it and the elevation. I ran 240's on my banshee with T5's and the stock air filter. Ran very good.

I just re-read your original post. Make sure you have the right amount of camber/toe/caster dialed in with those adjustable arms. Almost seems like a caster problem to me. Too much one way will cause some funky shit to happen. Think of a shopping cart where one of the wheels gets stuck the opposite way. It will cause all kinds of wobbling, vibration, etc trying to right itself and come around.

I got some clear tubing and stuck it on the bleeder nipple on the caliper, and loostened the bleeder nipple and sucked on the tube until I could see brake fluid in the hose, then tightened the nipple. Do it on both sides, and then bleed them normally. It's a pain in the ass trying to bleed the front brakes if there's a large enough air bubble in the lines.

They actually cut a portion fo the cover off and fix the billet aluminum housing onto the cover to clear the extra width of the clutch lockup. But like Big Blue said, you can run the aftermarket housing using a stock clutch if you want. They look nice and all, but sometimes you have to grind your right peg down slightly to clear it, and definitely have to jockey with the rear brake pedal.

I had a brake rotor hub hang up like that.... Lots of penetrating oil, heat, and elbow grease finally got the bitch off. Good luck :beer:

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...mp;navType=type crap, they went up $15

Denny has it close... The clutch was only $24.99 But I ran 6 HD Toomey springs, not 3 And he inflated my HP substantially. It was only 100.2 I ran that clutch for 1 full season on my 4mm dune ported motor, made quite a few dyno runs on it, then ran it in my 4mm cub setup. I only made 3 trips and a couple of hours of dyno time with the cub, but it held up fine...no slippage. For 95% of the people on HQ, that $24.99 clutch is more than enough. But if you insist on forking over 90+ bucks on a clutch, there are many places to get one. I would probably bet that 90% of builders that concoct their own clutch setups are identical to the infamous FAST clutch, but some of the prices shoot up toward $120. Good luck :beer:

money sent for thumb throttle and kicker

350 shipped? here's yer chance to earn another F.A.S.T. fan

a stroker means that you have put in a crank with a longer stroke and increased your motor's displacement. anything bigger than a +4mm crank will require trenching your cases. yes, you can still run a long rod. most people would recommend it porting your cylinders for your riding type is probably the most effective mod you can do to your motor. do a search on here, there have been quite a few posts about them, and what is required.

should've never put your cylinders on that bottom end. you won't know what kind of damage to expect until you pull it apart. I'd almost expect your cylinder walls to be nice and gouged up, and if you toasted a piston, your head is gonna have some pits in it too.

The others above told you what you'd experience.......a night and day difference from what you have now. You won't even recognize it as the same bike when you ride it. You'll probably be in the 70's for HP, compared to 40's previously.

some of the wiring is for the tors, which can be removed, some is for the headlight/kill switch, the key switch, the coil, and I think that's it for the wiring that goes up front. you can always lengthen the wire and route them somewhere else. personally, I just zip tie everything up out of the way as much as possible.